Need help with shift kit on 4l65e built
I think that the outer spring would be fine because it is much stiffer than the original. You can always add the inner spring if you want it to shift harder. I believe it alone will work just fine. The seal that is cut is it the rubber one or the teflon one? I don't know if I would use an oring in it's place. If you need the correct seals feel free to shoot me a PM. Vince
EDIT- The little inner spring in an OEM set up is a bumper spring. Or basically only allows the piston to travel so far.
EDIT- The little inner spring in an OEM set up is a bumper spring. Or basically only allows the piston to travel so far.
well the outer spring does not appear to be stock so since you said you have a super servo , I beleive I would leave out the washers and the center spring though it is actually stock since your goal is considerable softer shifts ,
I do not know that the round oring will work since i have never done that
I do not know that the round oring will work since i have never done that
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I beleave we were giving the same answer to the same question at the same time lol
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
I beleave we were giving the same answer to the same question at the same time lol
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Vince, I sent a PM about the o-ring thing. And once again regarding fluid, I've seen a few conflicting things in other posts about synthetic or not. I have a Dexcron III/Macron or whatev certified normal penzoil i believe atf and also have a mobile1 synthetic version. I have 6 qts of both new in bottles. Which to use? An explanation to educate would be appreciated so I understand why rather than just being told. Thank you again.
Well im relativly new to just my actual job is customer service and answering questions in this and several other forums
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So i finished the work today. Two of the holes in the tranny were stripped so i had to hellacoil them. It worked great and got everything back in. The 1-2 shift is now a ton better and just a hair stiffer than stock.
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Originally Posted by LastBlack02SS
So i finished the work today. Two of the holes in the tranny were stripped so i had to hellacoil them. It worked great and got everything back in. The 1-2 shift is now a ton better and just a hair stiffer than stock.
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Now I have another issue though. When i put the car into drive from park or neutral, it does that jarring that the 1st to 2nd shift was doing. To clarify, it was doing this before I did the above mentioned repairs. What could cause this? Any help appreciated.
Lastly, I put 5 full quarts in. The tranny has a deep transmission pan though. Should I put another in or something?
Last edited by GMRACER13; Dec 20, 2006 at 11:34 PM.
agreed a bad idea but may have happened i would look at that next wish you had said something earlier
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I will try and find a pic tomorrow ok
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