difficulty level remove/re-install 4l60e?
difficulty level remove/re-install 4l60e? My trans just blew up 2 days ago so now i'm back to square one. 
I don't see how it blew up considering it was supposed to be a trans built for 600HP, but that's a different topic. 
Sorry, just kinda feeling screwed over. anyway to get back on topic... how hard is it to remove and re-install a 4l60e on a 2000 trans am? and is there anything special I need to know?
Thanx guys,
Dan
I don't see how it blew up considering it was supposed to be a trans built for 600HP, but that's a different topic. Sorry, just kinda feeling screwed over. anyway to get back on topic... how hard is it to remove and re-install a 4l60e on a 2000 trans am? and is there anything special I need to know? Thanx guys,
Dan
Last edited by ryle; Jan 11, 2007 at 05:26 PM. Reason: better title
Take the Y-pipe out so the engine will tilt back as far as possible. Remove the dipsitick but leave the dipstick tube alone, just pull the trans away from the engine and let it down, the tube will move with it then come out as you lower the trans, same when putting it back, raise the trans, insert tube, raise some more and push it to the block.
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Torque converter bolts are a pain, but just go to Sears and get a longer 8mm Allen wrench and be done with it, unless you've already converted over to hex-head bolts (highly recommended)
Dipstick tube is a cinch with a stubby 15mm.
Drop exhaust from the headers back to make the trans tilt back further.
Go purchase 2 18" or 24" extensions and a swivel. These are life savers.
Have a transmission jack that works
All in all, I give an R&R on the 4L60E a 5 out of 10.
Dipstick tube is a cinch with a stubby 15mm.
Drop exhaust from the headers back to make the trans tilt back further.
Go purchase 2 18" or 24" extensions and a swivel. These are life savers.
Have a transmission jack that works
All in all, I give an R&R on the 4L60E a 5 out of 10.
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Brett Foote
11 Second Club
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Southaven, MS (near Memphis, TN)
Originally Posted by DOUBT IT
Torque converter bolts are a pain, but just go to Sears and get a longer 8mm Allen wrench and be done with it, unless you've already converted over to hex-head bolts (highly recommended)
Dipstick tube is a cinch with a stubby 15mm.
Drop exhaust from the headers back to make the trans tilt back further.
Go purchase 2 18" or 24" extensions and a swivel. These are life savers.
Have a transmission jack that works
All in all, I give an R&R on the 4L60E a 5 out of 10.
Dipstick tube is a cinch with a stubby 15mm.
Drop exhaust from the headers back to make the trans tilt back further.
Go purchase 2 18" or 24" extensions and a swivel. These are life savers.
Have a transmission jack that works
All in all, I give an R&R on the 4L60E a 5 out of 10.
done this swap in/out like 10 times now, used a lift every time but the last time did it on my back in the garadge with the th400. no trans jack or anything and by myself, had a friend help me get it back on the dowels and the first couple bolts in.
you NEED a 13mm swivel, a LONG extension( think mine was 2.5' long ), a good light, and patience plus the other needed tools.
GET THE CAR UP AS HIGH AS YOU CAN!!!! borrow/rent bigger jackstands if you can the higher the car is the better off you are.
PUT the dipstick tube back into the boot/trans while you are jacking it up into place. otherwise you are gonna not be able to get it in and you may have to unbolt it again to get it in.
hard parts are the top couple bolts (get to them from the tailshaft of the trans using the long *** extension and the swivel. actually not too bad but stressful to your arms), the clips for the lines (just get a small pick and pull them out, still a pita) plus other **** you'll run into. nothing THAT bad though.
if you are hard up for cash$ though do it yourself. once it is over and you still have that 250$ in your pocket you'll be happy.
you don't need a ******* expensive *** trans jack either. 1/2 the time you end up using a regular jack with some 2/4's on it instead of the trans jack and you wasted the $ buying it.
good luck
you NEED a 13mm swivel, a LONG extension( think mine was 2.5' long ), a good light, and patience plus the other needed tools.
GET THE CAR UP AS HIGH AS YOU CAN!!!! borrow/rent bigger jackstands if you can the higher the car is the better off you are.
PUT the dipstick tube back into the boot/trans while you are jacking it up into place. otherwise you are gonna not be able to get it in and you may have to unbolt it again to get it in.
hard parts are the top couple bolts (get to them from the tailshaft of the trans using the long *** extension and the swivel. actually not too bad but stressful to your arms), the clips for the lines (just get a small pick and pull them out, still a pita) plus other **** you'll run into. nothing THAT bad though.
if you are hard up for cash$ though do it yourself. once it is over and you still have that 250$ in your pocket you'll be happy.
you don't need a ******* expensive *** trans jack either. 1/2 the time you end up using a regular jack with some 2/4's on it instead of the trans jack and you wasted the $ buying it.
good luck
Yeah I did my converter swap over the new year weekend and it really was not bad. I did something stupid when I did the swap that cost me like 30 minutes so I thought I would share. I pulled the e clips and then got a wrench to pull the brass fittings out. Well I spent forever getting the first one out and then was struggling with the second when the line popped out. I thought I broke and realized how easy they are to remove. I thought you pulled the clips so you could loosen the fittings. The other two challenging points were the converter bolts and seperating the trans from the dowel's. Since yours has already been out the dowels should hopefully not be to bad. I had help with seperating the trans from the motor and geting it back up on the dowels other than that it is basically turning wrenches.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
I took a open end wrench and put it on the head of the bolt and gave it a good hit with a hammer. and then they came out pretty easy. A fellow member reccomended it, he said it would loosen the locktite.
ive had my trans in and out about 5 times. the last few i havent removed the dipstick tube at all. should i? probably. but i found that if you put a little fluid on the inside of the grommet and a little on the tube itself, youll have no problem getting it in. but then again, ive done it on a lift each time. this last time it took me about 5-6 hours
ive also used IMPACT swivels. the regular swivels suck compaired to these, but then again my 4L65E has a bolt at the VERY TOP of the trans and its HORRIBLE to get in and out w/o the impact swivels. and i think the extention i used was 3ft. dont try and connect a bunch of shorter extentions together. i did that but they would flex at the connections, so i wasnt able to break the torque on the bolts (that and i was using a regualr swivel)
ive also used IMPACT swivels. the regular swivels suck compaired to these, but then again my 4L65E has a bolt at the VERY TOP of the trans and its HORRIBLE to get in and out w/o the impact swivels. and i think the extention i used was 3ft. dont try and connect a bunch of shorter extentions together. i did that but they would flex at the connections, so i wasnt able to break the torque on the bolts (that and i was using a regualr swivel)
Originally Posted by 05gto60
ive had my trans in and out about 5 times. the last few i havent removed the dipstick tube at all. should i? probably. but i found that if you put a little fluid on the inside of the grommet and a little on the tube itself, youll have no problem getting it in. but then again, ive done it on a lift each time. this last time it took me about 5-6 hours
ive also used IMPACT swivels. the regular swivels suck compaired to these, but then again my 4L65E has a bolt at the VERY TOP of the trans and its HORRIBLE to get in and out w/o the impact swivels. and i think the extention i used was 3ft. dont try and connect a bunch of shorter extentions together. i did that but they would flex at the connections, so i wasnt able to break the torque on the bolts (that and i was using a regualr swivel)
ive also used IMPACT swivels. the regular swivels suck compaired to these, but then again my 4L65E has a bolt at the VERY TOP of the trans and its HORRIBLE to get in and out w/o the impact swivels. and i think the extention i used was 3ft. dont try and connect a bunch of shorter extentions together. i did that but they would flex at the connections, so i wasnt able to break the torque on the bolts (that and i was using a regualr swivel)
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
From: savannah
One thin I did the second time I took my tranny out was........if you don't mind the little x-tra work if you take your intake off before you raise the car you can get the hard top bolts of the tranny with a open end wrench.
Originally Posted by Montec
i usually put one of the longer ones with one of the shorter ones along with a swivel and an impact gun. They come right out. Just have to make sure you have the socket on the bolt. The only problems ive had is when the two extentions come apart and one comes back at my head! LOL!
the ones i had were worn, so when i put 3, 4, 5 of them on there and tried to break the torque, the extentions would flex at the joints
Originally Posted by 05gto60
the ones i had were worn, so when i put 3, 4, 5 of them on there and tried to break the torque, the extentions would flex at the joints
Thanx a lot for the help guys, I'm almost done with the removal all i have left to do is disconnect the stall and then hopefully out she'll come. And by the way, The long *** extenstion is the way to go... I put like 5 or 6 together and it sucked so for re-install i'm definately going to get some longer ones.
