overfilled tranny by about 1/2 qt. okay?
08-22-2011, 06:53 PM
#21
TECH Senior Member
Fluid leaving the trans comes directly from the converter, which when stalling generates huge amounts of heat.
08-22-2011, 07:03 PM
#22
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Hmm I always wondered if there is a pressure drop from running two coolers. I run a second filter on my trans ( spin on ) before it goes to my cooler then back to the trans. Ive never gotten an answer on if thats two much for the pump and will cause a pressure drop. So what it seems most guys over fill by 1/4 or and 1/2 a quart. I currently have mine right at the full mark when at operating temp. So I should add 1/4 to 1/2 quart more?
08-22-2011, 07:26 PM
#23
OR
Do I just want to know that its about 160*F going back in.........
I would think knowing how hot its getting in the tranny is more important so I know if I have a problem...right?
i could always just hit it the line leaving the tranny with a laser temp guage to see how hot it is AFTER it leaves the tranny.....
.
08-22-2011, 07:32 PM
#24
Lot's of good info in this old thread!
Joecar is absolutely spot on correct. The torque converter can generate as much as 10 degrees of temperature when it is sitting in a stalled condition, when fluid sheer is at it's maximum.
Think about it this way... here's an example... that bad *** blue twin turbo mustang I posted about here would spool up in about 6 -7 seconds. Mind you it had the best of the best baddest, no money spared powerglide and Neil Chance converter and a Chiseled Performance ice/water bath tranny cooler sitting in the passengers floorboard. I would not let the car go to the starting line if the tranny was above 150 degrees. And after spooling it up and making a 4.40 @ 170 mph hit it would come back right at 300 degrees as measured with a laser temp gun pointing at the converter cover itself. Thats with the cooler itself sitting in damn near 10 pounds of ice and water that's right at 32*f.
Now, that's an extreme and I know it, but it serves this discussion well. The idea of using cooler return fluid for lubrication is not only to lubricate, but also to cool the rotating assembly. Keep in mind that the rotating assembly does not generate heat itself, other than minor temperature differentials due to the rotational friction. It is the torque converter that generates the heat, therefore we send the fluid directly from the converter to the cooler and then back into the case to be distributed throughout the rotating assembly.
Now, in the case of a late model 4L60E fluid level... it is well documented here on Tech and other places on the web that under hard acceleration, if the fluid level is at the correct factory fill level, then the pump can lose it's prime and cause cavitation issues that lead directly to soft parts damage due to slippage. It's a simple case of inertia causing the fluid to run away from the pump / filter.
As far as a dedicated reservoir, I wouldn't do it myself. There's no need for it. A single aftermarket cooler in conjunction with the radiator cooler is quite adequate. Now, if it's a daily driver with a converter that stalls about say 3,200 rpm... I might consider removing the radiator cooler from the circuit, but that's all I'd do myself. Anything else is just added weight and overkill IMHO.
Hope that helps guys....
g
Joecar is absolutely spot on correct. The torque converter can generate as much as 10 degrees of temperature when it is sitting in a stalled condition, when fluid sheer is at it's maximum.
Think about it this way... here's an example... that bad *** blue twin turbo mustang I posted about here would spool up in about 6 -7 seconds. Mind you it had the best of the best baddest, no money spared powerglide and Neil Chance converter and a Chiseled Performance ice/water bath tranny cooler sitting in the passengers floorboard. I would not let the car go to the starting line if the tranny was above 150 degrees. And after spooling it up and making a 4.40 @ 170 mph hit it would come back right at 300 degrees as measured with a laser temp gun pointing at the converter cover itself. Thats with the cooler itself sitting in damn near 10 pounds of ice and water that's right at 32*f.
Now, that's an extreme and I know it, but it serves this discussion well. The idea of using cooler return fluid for lubrication is not only to lubricate, but also to cool the rotating assembly. Keep in mind that the rotating assembly does not generate heat itself, other than minor temperature differentials due to the rotational friction. It is the torque converter that generates the heat, therefore we send the fluid directly from the converter to the cooler and then back into the case to be distributed throughout the rotating assembly.
Now, in the case of a late model 4L60E fluid level... it is well documented here on Tech and other places on the web that under hard acceleration, if the fluid level is at the correct factory fill level, then the pump can lose it's prime and cause cavitation issues that lead directly to soft parts damage due to slippage. It's a simple case of inertia causing the fluid to run away from the pump / filter.
As far as a dedicated reservoir, I wouldn't do it myself. There's no need for it. A single aftermarket cooler in conjunction with the radiator cooler is quite adequate. Now, if it's a daily driver with a converter that stalls about say 3,200 rpm... I might consider removing the radiator cooler from the circuit, but that's all I'd do myself. Anything else is just added weight and overkill IMHO.
Hope that helps guys....
g
08-22-2011, 07:44 PM
#25
Lot's of good info in this old thread!
Joecar is absolutely spot on correct. The torque converter can generate as much as 10 degrees of temperature when it is sitting in a stalled condition, when fluid sheer is at it's maximum.
Think about it this way... here's an example... that bad *** blue twin turbo mustang I posted about here would spool up in about 6 -7 seconds. Mind you it had the best of the best baddest, no money spared powerglide and Neil Chance converter and a Chiseled Performance ice/water bath tranny cooler sitting in the passengers floorboard. I would not let the car go to the starting line if the tranny was above 150 degrees. And after spooling it up and making a 4.40 @ 170 mph hit it would come back right at 300 degrees as measured with a laser temp gun pointing at the converter cover itself. Thats with the cooler itself sitting in damn near 10 pounds of ice and water that's right at 32*f.
Now, that's an extreme and I know it, but it serves this discussion well. The idea of using cooler return fluid for lubrication is not only to lubricate, but also to cool the rotating assembly. Keep in mind that the rotating assembly does not generate heat itself, other than minor temperature differentials due to the rotational friction. It is the torque converter that generates the heat, therefore we send the fluid directly from the converter to the cooler and then back into the case to be distributed throughout the rotating assembly.
Now, in the case of a late model 4L60E fluid level... it is well documented here on Tech and other places on the web that under hard acceleration, if the fluid level is at the correct factory fill level, then the pump can lose it's prime and cause cavitation issues that lead directly to soft parts damage due to slippage. It's a simple case of inertia causing the fluid to run away from the pump / filter.
As far as a dedicated reservoir, I wouldn't do it myself. There's no need for it. A single aftermarket cooler in conjunction with the radiator cooler is quite adequate. Now, if it's a daily driver with a converter that stalls about say 3,200 rpm... I might consider removing the radiator cooler from the circuit, but that's all I'd do myself. Anything else is just added weight and overkill IMHO.
Hope that helps guys....
g
Joecar is absolutely spot on correct. The torque converter can generate as much as 10 degrees of temperature when it is sitting in a stalled condition, when fluid sheer is at it's maximum.
Think about it this way... here's an example... that bad *** blue twin turbo mustang I posted about here would spool up in about 6 -7 seconds. Mind you it had the best of the best baddest, no money spared powerglide and Neil Chance converter and a Chiseled Performance ice/water bath tranny cooler sitting in the passengers floorboard. I would not let the car go to the starting line if the tranny was above 150 degrees. And after spooling it up and making a 4.40 @ 170 mph hit it would come back right at 300 degrees as measured with a laser temp gun pointing at the converter cover itself. Thats with the cooler itself sitting in damn near 10 pounds of ice and water that's right at 32*f.
Now, that's an extreme and I know it, but it serves this discussion well. The idea of using cooler return fluid for lubrication is not only to lubricate, but also to cool the rotating assembly. Keep in mind that the rotating assembly does not generate heat itself, other than minor temperature differentials due to the rotational friction. It is the torque converter that generates the heat, therefore we send the fluid directly from the converter to the cooler and then back into the case to be distributed throughout the rotating assembly.
Now, in the case of a late model 4L60E fluid level... it is well documented here on Tech and other places on the web that under hard acceleration, if the fluid level is at the correct factory fill level, then the pump can lose it's prime and cause cavitation issues that lead directly to soft parts damage due to slippage. It's a simple case of inertia causing the fluid to run away from the pump / filter.
As far as a dedicated reservoir, I wouldn't do it myself. There's no need for it. A single aftermarket cooler in conjunction with the radiator cooler is quite adequate. Now, if it's a daily driver with a converter that stalls about say 3,200 rpm... I might consider removing the radiator cooler from the circuit, but that's all I'd do myself. Anything else is just added weight and overkill IMHO.
Hope that helps guys....
g
.
08-22-2011, 07:49 PM
#26
TECH Senior Member
Hmm I always wondered if there is a pressure drop from running two coolers. I run a second filter on my trans ( spin on ) before it goes to my cooler then back to the trans. Ive never gotten an answer on if thats two much for the pump and will cause a pressure drop. So what it seems most guys over fill by 1/4 or and 1/2 a quart. I currently have mine right at the full mark when at operating temp. So I should add 1/4 to 1/2 quart more?
08-08-2019, 10:30 PM
#28
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Besides this fluid seems clean and bubble free at running temp rpm @500 outside temp at 90°.
I just am on the fence to wether I need siphon it down to inside cross or leave it as it is. There is no leaks either so I'm woundering if it's over the cross internationally in regards to the lack of reserve fluid in pan to submerge pump inlet you speak of when 3rd and 4th are engaged?
08-09-2019, 01:51 AM
#29
On The Tree
I recently bought 02 tahoe w/4l60e and noticed trans fluid is length of crosshatch beyond top of .
Besides this fluid seems clean and bubble free at running temp rpm @500 outside temp at 90°.
I just am on the fence to wether I need siphon it down to inside cross or leave it as it is. There is no leaks either so I'm woundering if it's over the cross internationally in regards to the lack of reserve fluid in pan to submerge pump inlet you speak of when 3rd and 4th are engaged?
Besides this fluid seems clean and bubble free at running temp rpm @500 outside temp at 90°.
I just am on the fence to wether I need siphon it down to inside cross or leave it as it is. There is no leaks either so I'm woundering if it's over the cross internationally in regards to the lack of reserve fluid in pan to submerge pump inlet you speak of when 3rd and 4th are engaged?
08-09-2019, 07:28 AM
#30
TECH Junkie
You can be 2.5 or more quarts overfull and not have it puke out of the vent.
The vent is not an "auto fluid level" setting tool
The vent is not an "auto fluid level" setting tool
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