Auto w/stall VS M6??????????
Auto w/stall VS M6?????????? hey guys im looking into buying a 98-02 Camaro my goal is 400-450 rwhp motor and a 150 shot on top of that, the car will be took to the track 1-2 times a mounth maybe more at first 
, but any way i was wondering which u guys perfer for dd and track use, need something thats going to hold up and not always going to be in the shop 
i drive 60 miles going 2 work 
and well this car will be getting me thier.
, but any way i was wondering which u guys perfer for dd and track use, need something thats going to hold up and not always going to be in the shop i drive 60 miles going 2 work and well this car will be getting me thier. There's lots of threads like this if you do some searches. The general consensus you'll find is that a stalled automatic is more consistent and will generally be quicker at the track, but it will not take your power goals in stock form. Plan on spending a couple grand for a built unit and good stall converter. A manual car can be just as quick as an auto at the track and will take most abuse you can throw at it, but you'll need a 12 bolt or 9" rearend to do so (plan on a couple grand there too) along with a stout clutch.....the stock 10 bolt will grenade with the launches you'll need to 60ft like a stalled a4 car.
With that said, there's pros/cons with both setups but 90% of the decision is going to come down to personal preference, not "which is better". If you're the type that loves shifting gears, you're probably not going to be happy with even a high-stalled automatic, ask me how I know.
With that said, there's pros/cons with both setups but 90% of the decision is going to come down to personal preference, not "which is better". If you're the type that loves shifting gears, you're probably not going to be happy with even a high-stalled automatic, ask me how I know.
the general public believes all manual trans cars are faster than autos, atleast down here in redneck-land they do, and i am more than willing to whip up on some stick cars with my stalled auto. with a stall you take away the disadvantage of being knocked out of the power band with slow retarded auto trans shifts.
i need to change my gear shift to say "need new tires" (1st), "pulls like a ************" (2nd), "going to jail today" (D), "loud for no reason" (OD). because thats basically what it is. oh and you cant forget the honorary 5th gear, which is 4th gear lock-up, i like to call it "27 mpg hoes"...
i need to change my gear shift to say "need new tires" (1st), "pulls like a ************" (2nd), "going to jail today" (D), "loud for no reason" (OD). because thats basically what it is. oh and you cant forget the honorary 5th gear, which is 4th gear lock-up, i like to call it "27 mpg hoes"...
Originally Posted by spy2520
which is 4th gear lock-up, i like to call it "27 mpg hoes"...
Originally Posted by spy2520
i need to change my gear shift to say "need new tires" (1st), "pulls like a ************" (2nd), "going to jail today" (D), "loud for no reason" (OD). because thats basically what it is. oh and you cant forget the honorary 5th gear, which is 4th gear lock-up, i like to call it "27 mpg hoes"...
Which ever you choose be pepared to upgrade if your serious about running your car hard . I have around $5,300 in drivetrain mods {not counting the suspension $}with a m6 .
For what I use my car for ..Daily driving and 1/4 mile action I wish I would have bought a auto car from the get go
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For what I use my car for ..Daily driving and 1/4 mile action I wish I would have bought a auto car from the get go
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You'll need more than a couple of grand either way. I have $2300 in my tranny including the labor, TC, cooler, shiftkit, clutches, bands etc. and it won't handle a 150 shot ontop of 450 RWHP. However the 4L60E HAS been proven to handle alot of power if built properly.
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Originally Posted by GT Griller
Please tell me that ur running like 2.73's or worse cause if ur not then there is something serioulsy wrong with my car!!
From reading your post it looks like your gona be logging a lot of track time, in which case you want a race built 4l60e, th350 or 400 with a big stall. I went from stock A4 to built M6, but now am in the process of going back to a built A4 cause consistency at the track is most important to me.
Dude, I just did a yank mod (stall) on my A4 and swap my 2.73s to 3.42s and have a street tune. With all said and done, it makes me forget why I wanted M6 LS1. Yeah M6 LS1 is ALOT fun banging gears and all but it gets old driving the car in traffic. A stalled A4 and gear are must mods for all A4s, IMO especially if you have 2.73s. I ran a SS pewter M6 w/ similar bolt ons only a pulley difference (SS), he pulled me s l o w l y on highway roll. I'm sure my 2.5 STR didn't help the outcome. 
But on a dig, its a different story.
But on a dig, its a different story. 
Originally Posted by GT Griller
Please tell me that ur running like 2.73's or worse cause if ur not then there is something serioulsy wrong with my car!!
Originally Posted by spy2520
i got the stock 3.23s in, and it was actually closer to 30 for a while before i got stalled and tuned, ran fairly lean with headers...
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: kentucky
well mills i have m6 and will be switching to auto later on .but i know you man we grew up together. and think for the way you drive a stalled a a good built a4 will be perfect for you.My m6 is built but it gets old driving it every day to work . and with my mods now on factory 10 bolt i have had my *** HANDED TO me at the track by a stalled auto with the same mods as me except he didnt have headers.he ran a 12.78 to my 12.9x would been closer if i could have left harder but that lil bastard ran almost the same times all night 12.81 12.80.12.79 back to back
