orangefun

iTrader: (5)

to all you guys that build trannys, you guys have *****!!!! I thought I would build my tranny myself, once I saw pics of the inside i was like f that.

FLT

iTrader: (1)

LOL Yes it takes a pretty sick individual to do what we do.

pcs9449

iTrader: (58)

I have never seen two springs in the foward accumulator setup along with a spacer on the backside? I know the Superior shift correction kit has a 2 spring setup for Trucks and heavy duty use. Did you drive the 2 check ***** into the valve body where the pin goes when you installed the Sonnax pinless piston?

Sean

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Is this the picture that you are making reference to? If so this is a setup with an early trans go kit. The accumulator is an aluminum style not the sonnax type. The only thing I see that looks wrong is that the metal spacer I believe goes between the accumulator piston and the cover with three bolts. The two springs and the spacer is something that trans-go has since changed in their later kits.

pcs9449

iTrader: (58)

Ahhh, thanks Vince. I didn't know Transgo did that in previous kits?

I knew that it was a before pic, at least before the Sonnax piston. The Transgo Reprogramming kits don't have you do anything to the foward accumulator IIRC.

Sean

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Yes that was an early kit. We update all of our units to the latest version.

redvet99

Hi guys

Filled her up this morning and same problem with my old PCS

I think it's the pump I reassembled with the rebuilt pump case halves I put in with a new 13 vane pump with hardened steel high speed rings and new stronger single slide spring....didn't check clearances since I thought the pump refinisher did this.....lesson learned, check and recheck.

I bet they sold me a polished piece of crap, then again, I only paid $75 so I guess I got what I paid for.

I think my only recourse now is to pull the tranny out and install a new pump and also dig back into my beast torque drive input drum and replace the forward clutch return springs that I should have done in the first place.

Note the photos you were refering to is from disassembly. I actually installed a pinless accumulator and yes I did install the ball bearing plug using the old pin where the pin opening is located.

BTW, I have the Z-pak 3-4 clutch pack and wondered if I should put back in those 6 return spring pairs...they're out right now.

Also, where can I purchase a fully assembled high performance rebuillt 13 vane pump 1995 4l60E PMW (one piece case) with all the whistles and bells ( 0.5 boost valve, high speed rings, high rev slide spring, etc.) for a reasonable price?

redvet99

? Answers please.................

redvet99

Never mind....I bought a new pump from GMPartsdirect.com

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I wish you luck on the pump but unless its was really bad I doubt its your problem , Look over the teflon rings and everything very carefully. I have see pumps with massive grooves make max line .

redvet99

Took down my exhaust and drained my tranny tonight.

Getting Ready to pull my tranny back out.

First thing I'm going to check is my internal pump clearances, then it's on to my torque drive input drum piston seals.

I'll post whatever I find good or bad

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Cool if you need anything please let us know. Also I would air test the torque drive drum carefully I have seen them assembled wrong with the sleeve with holes obstucted etc.

redvet99

Ya, definately checking everything twice to see if I can find out what's been naughty or nice

redvet99

Tranny is out!

Tore it down tonight

Tore the input torque drum down...all the seals look fine.

Overrun, forward and 3-4 clutches and steel look new of course...they are!

Took apart the pump and noticed the rotori s quite a bit thinner than the raceway....measured the difference with a straight edge 0.012" way too much clearance That's my problem...period

No wonder pressure would drop as the fluid thinned as it got hotter...just like the oil in your engine when it gets to 150F it drops from 60 to 25 psi

New pump on order should fix this...in the mean time I'll change the forward clutch release springs to the stiffer ones.

Some performance questions:

With the 3-4 Z-pack, should I leave out the 6 dual return springs?

Should I install a new 13 vane rotor kit in my new GM pump...its on order too?

Should I install a 0.50" boost valve in the new pump?

Is there a specific size O ring for the converter seal to input shaft...yhey all looked the same (I have the small shaft).

Any performance tricks or pointers would be appreciated befoe I button this thing up again probably some time next week would be appreciated....don't want to have to open this up again without some good hard fun time in between

redvet99

So I finally get what is shown as the pump assembly in the GMPartsDirect.com catalog for a 1995 chevrolet corvette automatic part #5 in the schematic drawing labeled as pump assy.

I received only the front 1/2 of the case with the pump guts included.....rear half of the case w/ stator is missing??

I paid $262 + shipping for the cheap 1/2 of a new pump??

FLT

iTrader: (1)

You should of check us out for the pump. The pump looks like a CD after machining it. It is a very nice piece. http://finishlinetrans.com/store/pro...products_id=74

redvet99

Dear Vince,

If you go back about 5 posts, I did ask where I could purchase a good pump and would have been all too glad to ask you.

Unfortunately you missed that post

redvet99

So this is what I did today

Took the new GM front pump half and removed the new 10 vane pump guts in it's entirety. Measured rotor and slide thickness. Took my new 13 vane pump internals and measured slide and rotor thickness.....they are within 0.001" of the GM internals...great!

So I put the new 13 vane pump guts in the new front case also installed the single high speed slide spring and high speed forged rings.

Married this to my refinished remanufactred used rear pump body that has a micro finished turned flat face that I'd swear is a good as the new GM from case finish.

This also has the 0.50 transgo boost valve......also checked to make sure both pressure and TCC valving assemblies in this pump 1/2 operate freely.

Buttoned up the pump and torqued the bolts to 18 ft-lbs.

Also changed my pump and input shaft one piece teflon seals again and resized them.

Installed my new alto red wide band (diidn't like the looks of the new carbon band I had in before). Reinstalled my input and reverse drum and then the pump. Filled my refreshed protorque converter, lubed the converter hub and installed my converter on the tranny. Then primed the pump with some tranny fluid pourd down the pump intake turning the coverter to suck in the fluid.

Reinstalled my gaskets and valve body, filter, turned my old force motor adjuster 1/3 turn clockwise and buttoned the pan up with a new gasket.

Will start putting it back in the car this week.....hopefully it's finally fixed

FLT

iTrader: (1)

It happens. Sounds like you will have some results this week.

redvet99

Finished putting it all back together last night, dumped my engine oil and stuck in a new filter

Filled her with fresh synthetic engine oil and royal purple Max ATF this morning, started her up and the shift from P into the gears sounded great...like it used to.

Drove her to work 46 mls to Manhattan this morning and it drove fine.

Tranny hovered at 203F in 78F ambient.

No problems so far

I'll eventually stick the pressure gage on it, but I'm having too much fun right now