how hard is it to replace a tranny myself!
I have removed mine 3 times and it is not that bad. A nice set of tool wil make life so much easier. You will need two 24" extensions with a swivel socket. Here is a nice write-up on how to R&R the transmission.
http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall
http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall
TECH Resident
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Tree-Hugging, Bug eating CALI'
I've done a couple with some help. If you have some tall stands to safely prop the car on, and then a good floor jack to drop and lift the tranny in and out of the car, you should be fine. Be prepared to spend te better part of a day doing it. Make sure you keep an eye out on the tranny fluid level after you've started it. It may take several checks after it's at the correct level. In addition, make sure you get about one quart of fluid in the converter before you install it and make SURE you hear the three seperate clunks when you are engaging the converter to the transmission pump.
Good luck and be careful.
Good luck and be careful.
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
I did my own trans. its not hard. But a couple things I can think of to help you out are a can of PB blaster, a T50 socket and a torch. If you have any questions while your doing it just jump on here and ask. you will get a response. ( helped me out )
I cant speak for the driveway thing, but I did mine on a lift. out in 2 hours and in in 4 (with installing a cooler). Just do it from back to front. It seems to be easier that way. Take off your torque arm, drive shaft, exhaust, drive shaft loop, then starter, torque converter bolts, transmission bolts, and cross member. I make it sound too easy, but all in all its not that bad.
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Heres a little advice on the T50 bit get a really high quality bit , Then once you have the trans out grind the tip until the bit fits tightly into the torx bolts. Alternativly if you can get to a snap on truck some have the T50 plus bit which is even better and the torch comes in real handy for the lock tite that is on the threads of those bolts , They really are not so bad but be patient and keep the ratchet striaght dont let the exstension tilt, And I do not suggest using and Impact wrench.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
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I just took mine out this weekend. I also have a '98 and it took me all day only because the pins that line up the bellhousing bolt holes were almost welded to the block 
. Half that time I was bitching. It really depends how easy the tranny will separate from the block because everything before that should only take about an hour or two. Oh yeah and have fun with that last bellhousing bolt on top. 
. Half that time I was bitching. It really depends how easy the tranny will separate from the block because everything before that should only take about an hour or two. Oh yeah and have fun with that last bellhousing bolt on top. 
Originally Posted by spyterus
I just took mine out this weekend. I also have a '98 and it took me all day only because the pins that line up the bellhousing bolt holes were almost welded to the block . Half that time I was bitching. It really depends how easy the tranny will separate from the block because everything before that should only take about an hour or two. Oh yeah and have fun with that last bellhousing bolt on top.
. Half that time I was bitching. It really depends how easy the tranny will separate from the block because everything before that should only take about an hour or two. Oh yeah and have fun with that last bellhousing bolt on top. 
so next time you dont have to worry bout it. 
Delete option? I dont know if I agree with that. The bolt isn't THAT hard to put back in. The bellhousing to block connection is one of the most important. I wouldn't leave any bolts out. As far as the overall job. You can definitely do it yourself. Give yourself the whole day if its your first time. After your third one, you will be able to do the whole thing in about 3 hours (I can). Good advice about the fluid and converter. Oh... KEY ADVICE! Those bellhousing dowel pins are going to be the most frustrating experience in your life. My advice is to buy a can of PB Blaster and soak the F*** out of them as soon as you jack the car up and do that every hour while you are working and you might have a chance of getting it off. Of course, some people have an easier time than others depending on how corroded they are. But I had to let them soak overnight to get mine off and I have heard alot of similar stories. Good luck and post up if you get stuck on something!
Kyle
Kyle
Ya there is plenty of people that delete that bolt bc i think there is another 6 on the bell housing holding it on so i think you wil be ok . Also the back bolt holding the Valve cover bracket on on the drivers side is a delete option to bc that thing fookin sux to get to.
. Also the back bolt holding the Valve cover bracket on on the drivers side is a delete option to bc that thing fookin sux to get to. 
I used a come-along/ratcheting tie down to pull the trans back off the engine. My pins came out with the trans.
Delete option...hah.. I love it. I left it out too - TH400 doesn't use it, therefore neither will I.
Delete option...hah.. I love it. I left it out too - TH400 doesn't use it, therefore neither will I.
Originally Posted by bjamick
Ya there is plenty of people that delete that bolt bc i think there is another 6 on the bell housing holding it on so i think you wil be ok . Also the back bolt holding the Valve cover bracket on on the drivers side is a delete option to bc that thing fookin sux to get to.
. Also the back bolt holding the Valve cover bracket on on the drivers side is a delete option to bc that thing fookin sux to get to.Whatever you say. There are also alot of other people that would tell you not to. You choose when you do the install.
dont forget to undo your lid. they've been known to break when you let the tranny sag down. you're gonna want to take off the crossmember and let the tranny sag down as far as possible to get to those top bolts, then put your jack under it, jack it back up fairly level and slide it back.
oh yeah, when putting the tranny back in, keep an eye out for guiding the dipstick tube back in the hole. MANY people have bent the **** outta theirs
good luck
oh yeah, when putting the tranny back in, keep an eye out for guiding the dipstick tube back in the hole. MANY people have bent the **** outta theirs
good luck
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Port Royal, SC ( Parris Island )
im doing my torque converter right now, and it sucks getting the tranny down (for me anyway). biggest problem I had was the tranny cooler lines, couldn't fine a wrench that would fit, and had to use a vice grip to get those damn things off. so if you run into that problem that would be my suggestion for that part.
Originally Posted by black_lt1_z28
im doing my torque converter right now, and it sucks getting the tranny down (for me anyway). biggest problem I had was the tranny cooler lines, couldn't fine a wrench that would fit, and had to use a vice grip to get those damn things off. so if you run into that problem that would be my suggestion for that part.
I got my FLT Stage V trans back last Friday. I finished it all in about 6-7 hours from install to exhaust.. After you do it a few times, it gets pretty simple.
1st time, get a buddy to help you. Most important thing, IMO, would be to make sure your verter is on ALL the way so you dont smash the tranny pump.
1st time, get a buddy to help you. Most important thing, IMO, would be to make sure your verter is on ALL the way so you dont smash the tranny pump.