will the vigilante 2400 work for me
I've read that the super yank 3500 would work for the street as well,but sounds like it could be to radical for street driving.
Does anyone know the cost of having one installed?
Thank you.
If you really want a Vig, the Vig 2800 is the minimum you should get.
I'd get a converter first and see if you really need gears. 3.23s work well on the street with a good converter.
Jeff W <img border="0" alt="[whiner]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cry.gif" />
I don't fully understand how the stall works,does it mean the car will not move forward until I reach 3500 rmps ? If i'm driving at 2500 rpms down the highway, would that be a problem with this converter.
I've always driven a four speed car til my knees went bad,so you'll have to bear with me on the auto trans.tech stuff.
Thank you.
Good luck!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
<small>[ October 11, 2002, 04:07 PM: Message edited by: BADZ ]</small>
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<strong>
I don't fully understand how the stall works,does it mean the car will not move forward until I reach 3500 rmps ? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The car will go forward at far less than 3500 rpms. AT WOT, the car will immediately jump to 3500 rpms. At part throttle the car will use more rpms than stock so it feels a bit wierd at first. In town you'll probably use 400 - 600 rpms more than you currently do. In the parking lot, you'll find the car moves plenty fast at 1200 rpm.
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
If i'm driving at 2500 rpms down the highway, would that be a problem with this converter.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">On the highway you use the same rpms. The aftermarkets have a lock-up, just like the stock converter.
Read the FAQs at Yank's site for more info.
<small>[ October 11, 2002, 08:18 PM: Message edited by: Ragtop 99 ]</small>
For the next four years I'm going to drive the car on the street with bolt-ons.I will be doing some street racing/back roads driving and just plain jumping all over it occasionally.After it is paid off as some would say,then the fun will really begin.
As for now I have a clear understanding of what I want to do.It is when I inquired about gears that it became unclear of what to do about the stall convt. this seems to be a crucial decision,I want to get it right the first time, with your advise at LS1 Tech.
I'm leaning towards the 2800,not sure what brand yet.I don't know what SFCs/STB means,please explain.I am very concerned about the inevitable squeeks and rattles.I'm already developing a few vibrating noises in the dashboard area.The factory exhaust sucks.I will be changing that very soon,already have bolt-ons in the garage.
After I purchased the car I received a phone call from GM,one of the questions they asked me was "do you have any squeeks or rattles" I didn't until I reached 9000 mi.
I don't want a rattle trap however,I am concerned.Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the help.
PS: this car is a real head turner,someone wants to race me everytime I take it out!
SFC = subframe connectors
STB = Strut tower brace
Get them both if you are starting to feel the car is becoming a rattletrap.



