Opinions about TransGo Shiftkit
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Sweden
Opinions about TransGo Shiftkit I just bought a Z28 auto -94 with 37000 miles on it. It is totally stock right now. I´am about to change the transmission oil and filter, and was thinking of install a Transgo shiftkit when i still got the pan down.
Question: Will i get faster up- and down shifts? Advantages/disadvantages? Will the shifts be too hard for daily driving? Other opinions?
//J
Question: Will i get faster up- and down shifts? Advantages/disadvantages? Will the shifts be too hard for daily driving? Other opinions?
//J
mine does real good, i got the higher level i guess, mine had to be professionally installed. it shifts really really hard. in my other z i had just a normal trans go shift kit installed in it and it didn't shift quite as hard as my new one, but i think i actually liked it better than the new one. they shift real crisp and alot faster, they prob be alil harder on rear end i guess. i daily drive mine and love it. everyone also says they'll prolong the life of your trans!
Originally Posted by Mr J
Thanks for your reply. Did you use "level 2" on the shiftkit to your new car?
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Sweden
Originally Posted by stroked383z
yeah its this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRANS...spagenameZWDVW
IIRC, The trick to avoid the hard shifts is to modify the valve body.
I have the modified vavle body with 2 washers and it does not shift any harder than stock. But it is firm and quick when under boost. It also completely stopped the slipping that started when I added the turbo.
I have the modified vavle body with 2 washers and it does not shift any harder than stock. But it is firm and quick when under boost. It also completely stopped the slipping that started when I added the turbo.
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Originally Posted by cals400ex
is there a writeup on how to install these?
Not to be a smartass but follow them or take the advice of a well known builder that knows your car, not someone who's done it once and thinks they're a pro now.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
The shift kit will make it feel like a totally different car. You will love it. But, as was said above, if you don't know what you're doing, find somebody who does. That might be tough with a 4L60e in Sweden ...
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: Sweden
Originally Posted by RevGTO
The shift kit will make it feel like a totally different car. You will love it. But, as was said above, if you don't know what you're doing, find somebody who does. That might be tough with a 4L60e in Sweden ...
Do you think i should test 1 washer at first?
Camaro and the transmission 4L60e is in fact relatively common here in Sweden.
But the range of camaro-accessories here is about 1% of what you guys have in the states. 
i just got done w/ mine a week or so ago. being trained to work on H/D Alison trannies, it was easy for me but id imagine if you have never done anything like it, t would be intimidating. my take on it for a DD would be (and this was advice given from the couple of tranny sponsors here as well)
1. do all the valve body work but dont screw w/ the manual valve (def get an updated seporator plate from trans go)
2. drill the holes
3. get the parts to update to the corvettservo
4. make sure you have the updated acumulator pistons
5. install the bigger boost valve
6. install the valve body screen mod
other than those things leave everything stock if you like comfort and quick shifts. dont mess w/ the front acum, 1-2 and 3-4 housings if you dont want it to be too snappy. my 1-2 shift is harsh at anything over 1/4 throttle. when i drop the pan next ill be putting the acumulator housings back to stock. ive also been told to not do anything to the front housing at all actualy. just make sure you replace the plastic piston if you have one. i think in the newer trans-go kits you dont get any parts to screw w/ the front acum anyways. im sure im leaving some stuff out but hope that helps.
corey
1. do all the valve body work but dont screw w/ the manual valve (def get an updated seporator plate from trans go)
2. drill the holes
3. get the parts to update to the corvettservo
4. make sure you have the updated acumulator pistons
5. install the bigger boost valve
6. install the valve body screen mod
other than those things leave everything stock if you like comfort and quick shifts. dont mess w/ the front acum, 1-2 and 3-4 housings if you dont want it to be too snappy. my 1-2 shift is harsh at anything over 1/4 throttle. when i drop the pan next ill be putting the acumulator housings back to stock. ive also been told to not do anything to the front housing at all actualy. just make sure you replace the plastic piston if you have one. i think in the newer trans-go kits you dont get any parts to screw w/ the front acum anyways. im sure im leaving some stuff out but hope that helps.
corey
Originally Posted by Omec
i just got done w/ mine a week or so ago. being trained to work on H/D Alison trannies, it was easy for me but id imagine if you have never done anything like it, t would be intimidating. my take on it for a DD would be (and this was advice given from the couple of tranny sponsors here as well)
1. do all the valve body work but dont screw w/ the manual valve (def get an updated seporator plate from trans go)
2. drill the holes
3. get the parts to update to the corvettservo
4. make sure you have the updated acumulator pistons
5. install the bigger boost valve
6. install the valve body screen mod
other than those things leave everything stock if you like comfort and quick shifts. dont mess w/ the front acum, 1-2 and 3-4 housings if you dont want it to be too snappy. my 1-2 shift is harsh at anything over 1/4 throttle. when i drop the pan next ill be putting the acumulator housings back to stock. ive also been told to not do anything to the front housing at all actualy. just make sure you replace the plastic piston if you have one. i think in the newer trans-go kits you dont get any parts to screw w/ the front acum anyways. im sure im leaving some stuff out but hope that helps.
corey
1. do all the valve body work but dont screw w/ the manual valve (def get an updated seporator plate from trans go)
2. drill the holes
3. get the parts to update to the corvettservo
4. make sure you have the updated acumulator pistons
5. install the bigger boost valve
6. install the valve body screen mod
other than those things leave everything stock if you like comfort and quick shifts. dont mess w/ the front acum, 1-2 and 3-4 housings if you dont want it to be too snappy. my 1-2 shift is harsh at anything over 1/4 throttle. when i drop the pan next ill be putting the acumulator housings back to stock. ive also been told to not do anything to the front housing at all actualy. just make sure you replace the plastic piston if you have one. i think in the newer trans-go kits you dont get any parts to screw w/ the front acum anyways. im sure im leaving some stuff out but hope that helps.
corey
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Originally Posted by Mr J
...Do you think i should test 1 washer at first?...
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
The general concensus is that 2 washers are best for a street car. Unless you just like working on your transmission.
And being that it's a Z28 it should have the vette type servo in it already.
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
Originally Posted by performabuilt
Sounds like excellent advice
would you recommend 1 or 2 springs? i know that 3 is out of the question as that could damage internals due to a lot of shift pressure.
Originally Posted by Omec
i just got done w/ mine a week or so ago. being trained to work on H/D Alison trannies, it was easy for me but id imagine if you have never done anything like it, t would be intimidating. my take on it for a DD would be (and this was advice given from the couple of tranny sponsors here as well)
1. do all the valve body work but dont screw w/ the manual valve (def get an updated seporator plate from trans go)
2. drill the holes
3. get the parts to update to the corvettservo
4. make sure you have the updated acumulator pistons
5. install the bigger boost valve
6. install the valve body screen mod
other than those things leave everything stock if you like comfort and quick shifts. dont mess w/ the front acum, 1-2 and 3-4 housings if you dont want it to be too snappy. my 1-2 shift is harsh at anything over 1/4 throttle. when i drop the pan next ill be putting the acumulator housings back to stock. ive also been told to not do anything to the front housing at all actualy. just make sure you replace the plastic piston if you have one. i think in the newer trans-go kits you dont get any parts to screw w/ the front acum anyways. im sure im leaving some stuff out but hope that helps.
corey
1. do all the valve body work but dont screw w/ the manual valve (def get an updated seporator plate from trans go)
2. drill the holes
3. get the parts to update to the corvettservo
4. make sure you have the updated acumulator pistons
5. install the bigger boost valve
6. install the valve body screen mod
other than those things leave everything stock if you like comfort and quick shifts. dont mess w/ the front acum, 1-2 and 3-4 housings if you dont want it to be too snappy. my 1-2 shift is harsh at anything over 1/4 throttle. when i drop the pan next ill be putting the acumulator housings back to stock. ive also been told to not do anything to the front housing at all actualy. just make sure you replace the plastic piston if you have one. i think in the newer trans-go kits you dont get any parts to screw w/ the front acum anyways. im sure im leaving some stuff out but hope that helps.
corey
Something else, if you ever decide to have a "tune" done, the line pressures have to be left at stock. Anything more with the larger boost valve will be hell.
Separator plate- If you're not going to run a stall, drill the plate to the smallest holes, the kit comes with bits. If you drill the plate to the largest hole, you're going to have neck snapping shifts. This is with no washers. I have the same trans in my truck, and I have the largest hole drilled for the 1-2 shift, and it'll chirp the tires at half throttle. At WOT the 1-2 shift will spin the tires.
Separator plate screens - I'd get another set, they're really small and very easy to break if you're not gental with them.
Bags - open one bag at a time, and keep those parts together. Don't open the bags until you come to that step.
Here's some pics that might help out.
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...TransGo%20HD2/
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 969
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I build these units all the time for vehicles that have well over 450HP and I "do not" use the washers on any of them. The shifts will be smoother around town, and plenty firm when you are on it. This will give you the best chance at transmission longevity. Once you understand accumulation, it is somewhat easy to get best of both worlds, smooth part throttle shifts, with the shifts getting firmer with more throttle.
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
what do you recommend as for how many washers to put in on the transgo HD2 kit? let's assume we are looking for quick, firm shifts at low throttle with considerable bit at WOT, but at the same time, we are looking to prolong the life of the clutches. let's assume we don't want the shifts so hard they'll break the planets or any other internals.
would you recommend 1 or 2 springs? i know that 3 is out of the question as that could damage internals due to a lot of shift pressure.
would you recommend 1 or 2 springs? i know that 3 is out of the question as that could damage internals due to a lot of shift pressure.
What springs are you talking about?
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
The washers only change the feel of the 1-2 shift. Not the 2-3 or the 3-4.
What springs are you talking about?
What springs are you talking about?
i'd also likely put a sonnax 1-2 and 4th servo along with the updated aluminum accumulator pistons - just stuff that can be put on without cracking open the trans.
my only debate is 1 washer or 2.
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
what do you recommend as for how many washers to put in on the transgo HD2 kit? let's assume we are looking for quick, firm shifts at low throttle with considerable bit at WOT, but at the same time, we are looking to prolong the life of the clutches. let's assume we don't want the shifts so hard they'll break the planets or any other internals.
would you recommend 1 or 2 springs? i know that 3 is out of the question as that could damage internals due to a lot of shift pressure.
would you recommend 1 or 2 springs? i know that 3 is out of the question as that could damage internals due to a lot of shift pressure.
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