Tranny paint?
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Tranny paint? Anybody ever paint your transmission and have it stay? I'm doing my 4L80e swap soon, and am considering putting a nice coat of black paint on it to pretty it up just 'cause I can. Kinda hard to spend that much on a part and not pretty it up, ya know?
So what paint did you use, and how did it work for ya?
I'm considering Black Velvet by POR.
So what paint did you use, and how did it work for ya?
I'm considering Black Velvet by POR.
We use oil based rustoleum hammered silver , very durable seen over 1 year service still look great , Avalable in black/silver/bronze/green
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Originally Posted by Mr.MartyStone
POR-15 is also an option.
Marty
Marty
i never understood the point of painting a tranny case, just helps insulate heat, especially black.
Actually I understand of course we use sliver , But the reason is appearance and in our case like any other retailer you have to consider that apearance is very important , Even if it works perfect but looks like crap people are not happy . Try to sell a perfect running car with a crappy paint job , Then try and sell a awesome looking car that dosent run to well. See which sells first? quality is number 1 but appearance is likley no 2 , Of course from the consumer market appearance is the only real way they have to judge quality since they dont often get to see inside. On the matter of paint retaining heat this is true but a minor issue if the cooler is adequate.Very little heat is actually tranfered from the case its just to hot down there exhaust just below you tunnel above , Ouch ! Dam its hot lol
Originally Posted by Montec
oh god no. please no one por 15 your tranny case! BAD MARTY!
i never understood the point of painting a tranny case, just helps insulate heat, especially black.
i never understood the point of painting a tranny case, just helps insulate heat, especially black.
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Black won't hold any more heat than white, since it's not getting sunlight anyway. That's just silly to say. As for holding heat, I will be running through a stock cooler on the radiator to get temps down to coolant temp, then through a 30k gvw air to air cooler. So temps should stay super low, right? And yes, I want my tranny to look good when I look at it from under the car. Same as people painting their engine stuff.
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Originally Posted by LS1rulz
Black won't hold any more heat than white, since it's not getting sunlight anyway. That's just silly to say. As for holding heat, I will be running through a stock cooler on the radiator to get temps down to coolant temp, then through a 30k gvw air to air cooler. So temps should stay super low, right? And yes, I want my tranny to look good when I look at it from under the car. Same as people painting their engine stuff.
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No, you missed what I said. AFTER the radiator, it's going to an air to air cooler. The liquid to air is more efficient, and it'll get the fluid down to coolant temp. Then straight to the air to air cooler, which will drop it down closer to ambient air temp. When I said "right?" it was a rhetorical question, since simple physics and common sense shows that to be the most efficient way to keep temps down.
But just for conversation's sake, how would the radiator re-heat the fluid after it goes through the air-air cooler?
But just for conversation's sake, how would the radiator re-heat the fluid after it goes through the air-air cooler?
Because when your coolant temp is 200-220 degrees in the summer, how does that do you any good running your transmission fluid through there? There is no point in keeping it in the loop other than to warm it up faster in cold weather. Its not a fact to be debated as it already has been - many people on here have dropped their transmission temperatures by bypassing the radiator.
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If this has been proven, please educate me. Honestly bro. Help me understand this. If the tranny is running 230, it gets instantly dropped to 200 in the radiator. Bam. Done. So the air-air gets it while it's cooler than if it had been coming straight to the air-air cooler first. Then through the air-air cooler it drops to close to ambient air temp... let's say 120. So if the air-air cooler is only capable of knocking 80* off, this way it gets the fluid at a cooler starting point, giving a lower ending point. So how's that bad?