What parts for a blow proof 4L60E for 800+ hp
#1
What parts for a blow proof 4L60E for 800+ hp
I'm wanting to change over from the M6 to the 4L60E and i have a LS2 418cid with nitrous 250 shot in all around 750 to 800 hp. What parts do i need to build a 4l60e to with stand the pressure .I mean ,Hard parts & clutches ,will i need to replace all the drums and gears with high performance parts or just some of them ,I don't want to buy one i want to build one.
#3
This has worked for me in Greg Whitakers 1995 Firebird. At 3,560 lbs w/driver street driven with 2000 LS1 motor & trans, he built the transmission himself, and has run a best of a 5.78ET @121mph in the 1/8 mile, & a 9.36ET @144.6mph in the 1/4 mile. This was about 8-12 months ago.
Starting with the "Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
10-vane rotor w/vanes & slide assembly
TransGo steel rings & priming spring (over 5,500 rpm)
HD steel sleeve, overrun piston, & steel forward piston for the input drum
"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse/input waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears the inside of the drum up)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
9 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 4L65E 3-4 clutches .065
5 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 pressure plates top .128"
1 3-4 pressure plate bottom .220"
1 3-4 snap ring .062"
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068
Beast sunshell
SKF 29 element input sprag
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal (prelubed)
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
TransGo Modified Performance Shift kit, with .500 boost valve, & PWM eliminator valve
TransGo vacuum modulator
All new molded rubber steel pistons for forward & 3-4
New 4th accumulator piston and pin
Heat treated stator support
Alto Extra Wide Carbon 2-4 band with re-enforced anchor supports
Sonnax pinless forward accumulator piston & seals
Sonnax pinless second accumulator piston & seals with matching accumulator spring
Factory "K" second accumulator allows smooth part throttle & firm WOT 1-2 shifts with Sonnax servo
Sonnax 2nd gear apply servo uses cushion springs (18% more apply area than Corvette servo)
New TransGo separator plate predrilled
The reverse/input drum to be in perfect shape, or a new GM drum is a must.
I recommend that you Cryo your output shaft for added durability.
With the Corvette servo we were holding 800FWHP fine, with 850RWHP the 1-2 shift started getting long, added the Sonnax 2nd gear apply servo, problem was solved, but the 2-4 Hi-E band was starting to signs of wear after 300+ passes, so we added the Alto Extra Wide Carbon 2-4 band, and a new GM reverse/input drum. He was using a 250+ shot of nitrous. His wife had a baby and I hear the car is retired for awhile, wanted to see possible high 8's with some weight reduction and more nitrous, maybe someday. This should give you an idea of what to do and what will work.
Starting with the "Front pump"
Seal retainer
Late design seal
10-vane rotor w/vanes & slide assembly
TransGo steel rings & priming spring (over 5,500 rpm)
HD steel sleeve, overrun piston, & steel forward piston for the input drum
"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse/input waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears the inside of the drum up)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
9 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 4L65E 3-4 clutches .065
5 3-4 steels Kolene .060
3 3-4 Steels Kolene .076
1 3-4 pressure plates top .128"
1 3-4 pressure plate bottom .220"
1 3-4 snap ring .062"
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068
Beast sunshell
SKF 29 element input sprag
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Vamac 3 lip rear seal (prelubed)
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushings (latest updates, including Teflon front pump & extension)
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit (Timken)
TransGo Modified Performance Shift kit, with .500 boost valve, & PWM eliminator valve
TransGo vacuum modulator
All new molded rubber steel pistons for forward & 3-4
New 4th accumulator piston and pin
Heat treated stator support
Alto Extra Wide Carbon 2-4 band with re-enforced anchor supports
Sonnax pinless forward accumulator piston & seals
Sonnax pinless second accumulator piston & seals with matching accumulator spring
Factory "K" second accumulator allows smooth part throttle & firm WOT 1-2 shifts with Sonnax servo
Sonnax 2nd gear apply servo uses cushion springs (18% more apply area than Corvette servo)
New TransGo separator plate predrilled
The reverse/input drum to be in perfect shape, or a new GM drum is a must.
I recommend that you Cryo your output shaft for added durability.
With the Corvette servo we were holding 800FWHP fine, with 850RWHP the 1-2 shift started getting long, added the Sonnax 2nd gear apply servo, problem was solved, but the 2-4 Hi-E band was starting to signs of wear after 300+ passes, so we added the Alto Extra Wide Carbon 2-4 band, and a new GM reverse/input drum. He was using a 250+ shot of nitrous. His wife had a baby and I hear the car is retired for awhile, wanted to see possible high 8's with some weight reduction and more nitrous, maybe someday. This should give you an idea of what to do and what will work.
Last edited by PBA; 07-19-2007 at 12:16 PM.
#4
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There is no such thng as a blow proff any kind of trans but My advice would be if your going to build it yourself the list by PBA above looks good , If your going to buy a unit pick a company with a good rep and the best warranty. Just depends on which way you want to go building it your self you do get the satifaction of saying I am doing this with a ME built transmission but on the other side with a trans company you get the reassurance of the warranty when somethng does go wrong if indeed it does.
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#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
I have several transmission rebuild bills that say Vacuum modulators in 4l60's suck
Now im going with a 4l80... i dumped way to much money into a 4l60... wish i would have went 4l80 from the beginning because i would of had the baddest 4l80 made for what i lost messing with the 4l60.
Now im going with a 4l80... i dumped way to much money into a 4l60... wish i would have went 4l80 from the beginning because i would of had the baddest 4l80 made for what i lost messing with the 4l60.
#10
I appreciate all the responses on this, I build all my motors and youst to build all my transmissions years ago GM-TH350's and TH400's,and i know there's not bullet proof trans ,but i want to get close as i can, As for buying a trans already built that's a good thing but i like doing my own work and learning from my own mistakes, if some one else builds my trans or motors and i had a problem i would never know really what happen, and the time it takes to take it out and finding a shipper and waiting for rebuild time and never the first in line for fix. I can tear it down and actually see the problem and fix it with better part, and not do the wrong thing again,I try to learn from my mistakes and fix it.I could go with the TH350 or 400 or even the 4L80 but there's a lot of mods that hast to be done to the car,I believe with the right parts and time and research (LS1Tech) the 4L60E can do the job for me.My cars not a daily driver ,just on weekends and some track time.The PRO on here that build transmissions and sale them had to start some were, and i know they have years experience with them but they did start some were, and that exactly what im doing.The main thing is research ,research more research. I can build the trans for a stock motor that would be know problem, BUT for lots of torque and HP that were i need your brains and knowledge and help .I have a 03-4L60E with less than 8000 miles on it and that's were ill begin.
#11
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iTrader: (25)
I think you will find there are cheer leaders from both sides of that isle , Personally I pefer the PCS but I have seen situations especially with odd Tuning issues where the MOD is the quick fix. But generally I go with the PCS if all the tuning details can be worked out since it would give in my opinion better drivabilty and let the PCM continue to make minute presure ajustments according to driving conditions but to each his own, We all have some fast cars running either system.
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#13
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
personally IMO you'd be better off th400 or a glide at that power level, the 4ljunkie's main problem is the actual drum itself, sprags, etc.etc. They are just not strong enough, and no matter what you do they will only take so much power for so ling before going to hell.
Sure there's this guy and that guy that have done it, but in the long run is the headache and $ worth it? That's the question you ahve to ask yourself. If you must have overdrive, then the 4l80 is the only choice, the stock computer can be flashed to control it, or you can go manual with it (better route IMO) and I do believe that BMR sells a crossmember with tq arm relocation for that tranny ( at least they do for a th350, th400 and glide, I suspect there is a 4l80 one also) so the mod's to the car aren't that bad.
Sure there's this guy and that guy that have done it, but in the long run is the headache and $ worth it? That's the question you ahve to ask yourself. If you must have overdrive, then the 4l80 is the only choice, the stock computer can be flashed to control it, or you can go manual with it (better route IMO) and I do believe that BMR sells a crossmember with tq arm relocation for that tranny ( at least they do for a th350, th400 and glide, I suspect there is a 4l80 one also) so the mod's to the car aren't that bad.
#14
I agree with you cablebandit, this has happened to me. I heard Greg Whitaker was considering the TH350, and I knew that it would be quicker & faster than a 4L60E, but not hearing from him convinced me that he was not doing anything for now. The times that I have mentioned are what he told me he did at the track. As for verifying this I cannot. I can only go by what he told me that it ran.
#15
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iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by cablebandit
performabuilt, i agree with you IF the end user has a good tuner but I have seen poor tuners or end users monkeying with line pressure tables mess up a good tranny and the builder has to eat it. I guess I am thinking along the "few comebacks" way of thinking
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#17
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iTrader: (25)
Well LOL I dont know what brand it was but it did a really nice job of separating the friction material from the clutches and band lol. If thats something you would ever have need for. Imagine this he got mad when I told him we couldnt warranty it because his fluild looked like pepto bismol . Even though I did offer to fix it for our cost and shipping
Originally Posted by cablebandit
was it the wrong brand of antifreeze?
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#18
8 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
I built my 60E myself... Started with a 1000mile trans and ordered all the parts from Chuck@FLT, Very close list to what PYB posted. So far 150+ passes in a 3800lbs truck at about 650RWHP on the bottle... No signs of slipping or complaints so far!
The Guys at FLT will take great care of you... Performabuilt also has a great reputation and customer service if you choose to use them.
The Guys at FLT will take great care of you... Performabuilt also has a great reputation and customer service if you choose to use them.
#19
I gong to find me a 4L80E, From what Ive read the 4L60E just wont hold up to 800+ hp and nitrous, And maybe not the 4L80E but it may last longer, I just dread all the modifications I'm going to haft to do to make it fit and control from the ecm. What years and models does the 4L80E come in that will bolt up to a LS2 engine?