Cold shifts vs hot shifts?
Cold shifts vs hot shifts? Okay, back again with my crappy 60E. I'm trying to hold out until I do a 6spd swap but this is driving me nuts. My 2-3 shift has never worked properly at WOT even after numerous fixes and tuning, the car will just bounce off the rev limiter no matter what. I just discovered that it only does it when its hot. Basically it works good until my gauge reads about 160* and then it stops being able to shift at WOT. The tranny seems to stabilize around 170* under normal driving. Is this too hot for it? Also, 1 WOT run and it will spike up to almost 250* until I cruise around for a while and let it cool down. Opinions please?
Summary of tranny: 4L60E 112k
Rebuilt ~2k ago
New solenoids (all of them)
New accumulators and 3-4 apply servo
New seperator plate
TCI 3500 Stall
B&M 36000BTU + A/C condenser to cool it
Summary of tranny: 4L60E 112k
Rebuilt ~2k ago
New solenoids (all of them)
New accumulators and 3-4 apply servo
New seperator plate
TCI 3500 Stall
B&M 36000BTU + A/C condenser to cool it
Are you running it through the stock AC condensor or do you have a smaller one from a different car? How much stuff is stacked up here? 4 layers?
Possibly look into 2 new "high speed" fans or cutting the low speed fan out of the stock shroud. Halving the shroud will allow more airflow when at speed. The low fan doesn't do much...
Possibly look into 2 new "high speed" fans or cutting the low speed fan out of the stock shroud. Halving the shroud will allow more airflow when at speed. The low fan doesn't do much...
Sounds like you need more cooler and yes there are different tables for hot and cold mode .
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But why does mine need so much coolers? I've driven other stalled LS1s and they had nowhere near the same problem I do. I forgot to mention I also have a 3qt extra pan with cooling fins on the bottom. Note: it did the same thing with the stock stall. The A/C condenser is the stock unit that is the same size as the radiator basically. It also cools thru the sotck radiator part, so thats effectively 3 coolers on it.
170 is not to hot, In fact thats well within range. However prolems at higer temps can be indicative of some internal issue. Fliud become slighlt thinner etc. Or he valve body could be sticking a little as another possibility. I would see whats in the pan first to see if maybe you do have a 3-4 clutch issue. If not and its done this many times I would have to wonder if its still either a tunig issue or a sticking valve body possibly . Have you data logged to see if the shift is actually being comanded, I know you have the tuning set for a certain speed and RPM but sometimes where its set to happen and whats actually happening I have learned are not the same thing,
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Yes, I've logged it and it is commanded, it just will not work WOT after it warms up. It seems like it would be something mechanical. The fluid is like brand new, no burnt smell etc. Bottom of the pan looks like someone just wiped it out, so no clutch packs burning up. I wasn't say 170 is HOT, I'm just saying it doesn't shift right after like 140*. Basically it goes like this:
Cold to 140/150ish shifts 100%
Over 160/170ish 2-3 will not shift WOT unless I let off, and even then it takes about 4 to 5 seconds.
Cold to 140/150ish shifts 100%
Over 160/170ish 2-3 will not shift WOT unless I let off, and even then it takes about 4 to 5 seconds.
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