torque management delete???
torque management delete??? i'm about to get a tune but i wanted to know how the torque management worked. should i get it deleted completely?My car is a daily driver. Also i'm getting the tune through trifecta.
....good idea???????
....good idea??????? Last edited by boola1341; Oct 3, 2007 at 06:43 PM. Reason: correction
We recommend with our rebuilds that the torque management be remove for maximum performance. It's basically limiting the engines performance when the trans shifts by removing timing from the motor. Some guy's run some of the torque management to reduce the risk of abuse to the drive line. Ask your tuner what his thought's are and go from there. I say remove it. Vince
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
If you really want pure performance, remove it from the 1-2 and 2-3 shift, but leave it on the 3-4 shift. That's what I'm probably gonna do. NO WAY am I removing TM from the pathetically weak 3-4 shift.
Remove it all from everywhere including the engine TM.
Weak 3-4 shift, block the accumulator hole, open up the 4th apply feed.
Link to TM poll.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/203223-torque-management-poll.html
Weak 3-4 shift, block the accumulator hole, open up the 4th apply feed.
Link to TM poll.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/203223-torque-management-poll.html
Last edited by 8a8mfh; Oct 4, 2007 at 04:36 PM.
you bet your *** i sprayed it without torque management... but only in 3rd, not through shifts, sprayed just a few pounds worth.
however... i did have about 20 wot 3-4 shifts
edit: i should note that the tranny started with the death throes when i exited the freeway after a 300 mile drive where i did my wot 3-4 thing about 5 times. you read about it here all the time, but don't appreciate just how ridiculously weak the 3-4 clutch pack is until it takes a **** on you.
however... i did have about 20 wot 3-4 shifts
edit: i should note that the tranny started with the death throes when i exited the freeway after a 300 mile drive where i did my wot 3-4 thing about 5 times. you read about it here all the time, but don't appreciate just how ridiculously weak the 3-4 clutch pack is until it takes a **** on you.
Last edited by BobDoLe; Oct 6, 2007 at 03:00 PM.
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I favor just mellowing out the amount of spark pulled,
for that half a second pulling it back to 250-300 lb-ft
isn't going to cost you much, yet won't be as annoying
as the full cut to -10 degrees advance like stock wants
to do, and you'll be making it easier on the trans a bit.
I've played with this a lot and ended up only with a
modified Spark Retard vs Torque Reduction table. On
my year the 3-4 shift was not torque managed (0
reduction in table) so I copied the 2-3 values to it for
a little more safety (though opportunities for WOT 3-4
upshift with stockish gears are few). I limit the Torque
Reduction Spark Retard to 15 degrees, max. That leaves
me 10 degrees positive advance through the shifts and
I don't notice any great power dip. A little honk out the
pipe though, like it's not burning completely (though
-10 would be worse I'm sure).
Speeding up the shifts makes the TM interval much
less annoying as well.
for that half a second pulling it back to 250-300 lb-ft
isn't going to cost you much, yet won't be as annoying
as the full cut to -10 degrees advance like stock wants
to do, and you'll be making it easier on the trans a bit.
I've played with this a lot and ended up only with a
modified Spark Retard vs Torque Reduction table. On
my year the 3-4 shift was not torque managed (0
reduction in table) so I copied the 2-3 values to it for
a little more safety (though opportunities for WOT 3-4
upshift with stockish gears are few). I limit the Torque
Reduction Spark Retard to 15 degrees, max. That leaves
me 10 degrees positive advance through the shifts and
I don't notice any great power dip. A little honk out the
pipe though, like it's not burning completely (though
-10 would be worse I'm sure).
Speeding up the shifts makes the TM interval much
less annoying as well.
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