Torque Converter Installations
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FormerVendor
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From: Wood Dale, Illinois
The obvious problem would be a damaged pump or broken converter as mentioned earlier in this thread. If you have a vibration, I would think that a bent flexplate, improperly balance converter, engine, drive line angle, mounts, drive shaft.......and so on would be what to look at. The only way converter spacing could be an isssue is if you were to use washers and they were not the same thickness. Vince
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FormerVendor
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From: Wood Dale, Illinois
I do not recommend using more than one single equal thickness washer for each bolt. I would try to get the spacing between 3/16 and a 1/16. When you measured the spacing did you use a drill bit like mentioned earlier in this thread? I saw on either jegs or summit where they sell an assortment of washers just for shimming the converter. Might be something to look into if you can not find what you are looking for locally. Vince
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I watched two converter being installed in my 1998 Camaro Z28. The first was a Yank and the last one was a Midwest. I remember the Installers turning the converters and hearing them "Clunk" when they seated but I never saw anyone take any measurements.
They both drove fine.
They both drove fine.
I do not recommend using more than one single equal thickness washer for each bolt. I would try to get the spacing between 3/16 and a 1/16. When you measured the spacing did you use a drill bit like mentioned earlier in this thread? I saw on either jegs or summit where they sell an assortment of washers just for shimming the converter. Might be something to look into if you can not find what you are looking for locally. Vince
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FormerVendor
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From: Wood Dale, Illinois
If you are using the end of the drill bit that would chuck into the drill, then you are definitely going to need to shim it. Sounds like the build height on the converter or the flex plate are just a bit off. Vince
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Verdad Gallardo Interesting That's good to know. something else I noticed about the converter... The space is 3/8" on two of the pads. The third pad; however, has less space (a 3/8" bit won't fit). THis is measuring off the same spot on the flexplate (by spinning the converter). So, I'm guessing the converter will be out of balance, or will it?
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FormerVendor
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From: Wood Dale, Illinois
I guess anything is possible. It is possible that maybe the converter slid forward throwing off your measurement. What brand converter is this? Also maybe the converter is not fully supported by the pilot causing it to hang down a bit when you made the measurement. Vince
thanks. I guess anything is possible. It is possible that maybe the converter slid forward throwing off your measurement. What brand converter is this? Also maybe the converter is not fully supported by the pilot causing it to hang down a bit when you made the measurement. Vince
So i should try to get the gap between that? I have feeler gauges im gonna use and it says .060"-.187" is acceptable when the converter is completely seated in the bellhousing correct? Just double checking for when my Yank arrives.
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FormerVendor
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Yes you are correct. Your going to love that converter! Vince
Holy old thread.
Installed my converter but have not turned the car over yet. I could easily turn the converter by hand before bolting to flexplate BUT even using a flexplate wrench, one bolting up the converter it is very difficult to turn. THAT OKAY??
Installed my converter but have not turned the car over yet. I could easily turn the converter by hand before bolting to flexplate BUT even using a flexplate wrench, one bolting up the converter it is very difficult to turn. THAT OKAY??
One other thing I never see mentioned is bolt length. This wasn't a problem back in the good ole days with flange style converter pads that use a bolt and nut.
But today most converters use billet front covers with blind holes. They even come with bolts. The industry standard on bolt length thread engagement is 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt. Every bolt that I've seen supplied with a billet converter is too short. Add spacers and the engaged thread gets shorter.
Too long a bolt will tighten up, but will not clamp the flexplate to the converter, sometimes this isn't very obvious and can lead to knocking noises and cracked flexplates. Sometimes it's not so obvious at first.
The first thing that should be done before the converter goes in is check the thread depth, thread a long bolt in to see how deep a bolt will go finger tight. Add the thickness of the flexplate and any shims to the depth and subtract approx. 1/8" or whatever will get the bolt to thread in 1.5 times it's diameter.
But today most converters use billet front covers with blind holes. They even come with bolts. The industry standard on bolt length thread engagement is 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt. Every bolt that I've seen supplied with a billet converter is too short. Add spacers and the engaged thread gets shorter.
Too long a bolt will tighten up, but will not clamp the flexplate to the converter, sometimes this isn't very obvious and can lead to knocking noises and cracked flexplates. Sometimes it's not so obvious at first.
The first thing that should be done before the converter goes in is check the thread depth, thread a long bolt in to see how deep a bolt will go finger tight. Add the thickness of the flexplate and any shims to the depth and subtract approx. 1/8" or whatever will get the bolt to thread in 1.5 times it's diameter.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Sweden
FTI says they have sold 150 of these without a problem.
From the bellhousing with FLT trans to the mounting pads of the converter i have 1.1".
The CSR flexplate is about 0.118" off compared to the stock flexplate i had , measured from the bellhousing mounting point to the engine block to the mounting point of the converter.
Also the bolt circle of the flexplate seems a little bit off compared to the stock converter.
Also the bolts supplied with the converter had 0.236" thread to the converter with flexplate.
Regards Marko
Last edited by MarkoLBR; Oct 2, 2009 at 01:07 PM.
I´ve got a 0.354" gap measured with the CSR flexplate and FTI converter.
FTI says they have sold 150 of these without a problem.
From the bellhousing with FLT trans to the mounting pads of the converter i have 1.1".
The CSR flexplate is about 0.118" off compared to the stock flexplate i had , measured from the bellhousing mounting point to the engine block to the mounting point of the converter.
Also the bolt circle of the flexplate seems a little bit off compared to the stock converter.
Also the bolts supplied with the converter had 0.236" thread to the converter with flexplate.
Regards Marko
FTI says they have sold 150 of these without a problem.
From the bellhousing with FLT trans to the mounting pads of the converter i have 1.1".
The CSR flexplate is about 0.118" off compared to the stock flexplate i had , measured from the bellhousing mounting point to the engine block to the mounting point of the converter.
Also the bolt circle of the flexplate seems a little bit off compared to the stock converter.
Also the bolts supplied with the converter had 0.236" thread to the converter with flexplate.
Regards Marko
I've never done this before so I have a few questions.
Unless I missed it I didn't see which way you spin to engage the converter I assume it's counter clockwise and the opposite to get the old converter off?
Also should the trans be in park, neutral ,drive?
Thanks!
Unless I missed it I didn't see which way you spin to engage the converter I assume it's counter clockwise and the opposite to get the old converter off?
Also should the trans be in park, neutral ,drive?
Thanks!
Last edited by larrygto; Oct 2, 2009 at 05:23 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Sweden
Yes , a friend of mine is going to make me some 0.216" schims.
That seems to set the converter correctly into crank and correct space from transmission.
Also trying to find some correct lenght bolts that thread at least 0.472" into the converter pads.
I´m having a hard time to find bolts (the ones on the right in picture) with correct thread pitch.
Stock/supplied bolt with converter is in the left of picture.
That seems to set the converter correctly into crank and correct space from transmission.
Also trying to find some correct lenght bolts that thread at least 0.472" into the converter pads.
I´m having a hard time to find bolts (the ones on the right in picture) with correct thread pitch.
Stock/supplied bolt with converter is in the left of picture.
Last edited by MarkoLBR; Oct 3, 2009 at 02:54 AM.
