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Can someone take a look at my TCC charts (pics)

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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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Default Can someone take a look at my TCC charts (pics)

Hey I made a post with no reponses. So I will try this with pics now. I drove my car for 2 hours straight (around2600rpm) (built 4l60e with midwest 2800 stall). I got to the guys place to look at my new 12 bolt rear for about 10 mind then drove back home. I drove for about 1 hour and we were about to pull of to go to the washroom then I noticed my rpms were slipping from 1l-3500 like a stall would but alot. So i pull in and check the fluid and its tan coloured. So we let it sit with my fans running and then I drove home and around a town to look at a car for my buddy for a total of probably 1.5 hours driving with not an issue??

I pulled my tuner cat TCC files and here is what I got. I ended up changing them a little lower (same files my buddys 97 WS6 has which is a 383 with 3500 yank)
I havent drove it since, since the car is awaiting the moser 12 bolt install.

Here are the charts? Do u think this is why my fluid burnt up? What should I chnge them too?

Thanks for any input.

Jay




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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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If the Rpm's flared anymore than a few hundred rpm's the issue is not with your converter. Most likely the 3/4 clutches are burnt and that is the reason for he discoloration in the fluid.

The converter files look just fine. I prefer to see the converter lock up a bit later, but if it has good driveability theres no reason for a change.

g
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ratchthed
If the Rpm's flared anymore than a few hundred rpm's the issue is not with your converter. Most likely the 3/4 clutches are burnt and that is the reason for he discoloration in the fluid.

The converter files look just fine. I prefer to see the converter lock up a bit later, but if it has good driveability theres no reason for a change.

g
Why would it be fine after shutting the car off then driving for another 1.5 hours tho....I got on it a couple times to make sure and it seemed to chift good too?
Well the car is gonna get stored this soon anyways so i will flush it and change the filter and see what happens next summer...if it goes i will probably swap a t56 if i can get a decent deal.

Jay
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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That's a good question.

How much did you see the rpm's flaring when you observed the symptoms?

g
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 08:06 PM
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I was crusing at 3000rpm then i slowed down to about 2600ish for a truck then i noticed when i sped up to get back to my speed but this time i was going the same speed but the rpms were at 3500 instead of 3000. Then i pulled off and i could peddle it(push the peddle down) a bit and it was acting like the stall would(moving from 1-3500ish with no catch on the tranny.

I shut it off for 10min (smelt like tranny fluid no smoke tho) and continued on the highway for about 45 min and then through a town in traffic for a while then back on a highway. I also put it down to pass a car and it shifted greaat! then i got on it leaving my friends and again good shift?

Jay

Last edited by jay_rich; Nov 28, 2007 at 09:10 PM.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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Tables look ok to me. I don't see how you could get to 3000 rpm on stock gears (at something close to legal speed) without a mechanical issue like Gilbert suggested.

When I had a 4k stall, I would lock up at low TPS at a lower speed, but I would come out of lock-up sooner at high TPS. Its a lot about personal preference.
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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*** I just pulled my tune up...It was tuned before at the beggin of the summer with 255/50/16s and a 3.42 gear ratio. Now I just retuned it last weekend for a higher shift point. ( i just got the software and pulled my old file) Now I just started looking around and under speed calibration it was listed as a 285/40/17 and a 3.07 gear and a y body????? He told me that they changed this before. Now is this changed bc i just got the software and never noticed/changed? So maybe when i reprogrammed my ECU for the higher shift points (wot shift) i also sent to the computer saying i had these gears and tires?

I am using tunercat.

Jay
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 09:01 PM
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Sometimes the written word is harder to follow than the spoken word. I don't follow the relevance of your last comments in regards to the symptoms. Maybe it's been a long day.

At which point was the erroneous tune loaded in reference to observing the symptoms?

And does it have the correct tune in it now, if so how does it ride and drive?

g
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Old Nov 28, 2007 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Ratchthed
Sometimes the written word is harder to follow than the spoken word. I don't follow the relevance of your last comments in regards to the symptoms. Maybe it's been a long day.

At which point was the erroneous tune loaded in reference to observing the symptoms?

And does it have the correct tune in it now, if so how does it ride and drive?

g

I just asked a friend and that was just a default on screen thing and the actual was to the left which was correct.

I edited my old post...Hope that cleared it up a bit

Jay

Last edited by jay_rich; Nov 28, 2007 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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Thanks for clearing that up a bit.

If the tune was not changed immediately prior to the trip, was not changed while you were inspecting the axle or on the return trip it will have no relevance here.

I'll go back to my comments about the 3/4 clutches.... If the fluid was discolored and the fluid had a pungeant odor then there is a burnt element in the transmission. It could easily be the 3/4 clutches and it could be the converter clutch. Either way there is damage, regardless of the fact that the transmission operated normally after the event you described.

g
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