DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

On my stock tranny I had the transgo kit installed and a 3500 stall with 2 washer's (spacer's) I put 40k miles on the tranny like that about 15k of which over 400 hp. My 3-4 clutch pack was the 1st to go on it. I actually really liked how the car drove with just the kit.

A couple things to think about when doing it yourself.

Make sure you remember bolt location on the VB. There are 3 8mm one's that need to be correctly placed back in, if they are incorrectly installed you can lock out the transmission.

Think about drilling the transfer plate out to accomodate for a 9.5 in converter if you have future plans for one. The instructions tell you which hole to drill.

A second set of hands is nice when lowering the pan and when installing the VB back. If you are carefull you don't need to grease the check *****.

You will loose atleast 6 qts maybe more with the stock converter, so pick up about 2 gallons, just use some decent dexron III spec stuff.

Delete torque management, or all this work will be futile.

Sombedy who has done it before can probably do it in a couple hours, but I would plan on an afternoon if it's a 1st time.

382ssz28

iTrader: (24)

I think with a stock converter no spacers should be used. Remember, I use one with a 3800 stall converter. The converter absorbs the shift at cruising speeds. Besides, if you do upgrade in the future, the accumulator can be easily removed to replace the spacers.

Vinny1

Thanks guys I'm still whatching this thread. I do plan to do it myself for the experince and knowledge. Hell everyone had there first time!

Anymore advice is sure welcome

Vinny

chargedvx6

Hey Vinny, I have just installed the HD-2 C kit myself and wish I had found ur thread earlier. I am a wannabe mechanic with some basic skills and had no probs with the install except for the fact that I stuffed up the sequence a few times and added about 45mins onto the job

I fitted the shift kit and int (1-2) and od (3-4) billet servos with a good improvement.
Shifts firm at part throttle from 1-2 but anything over 3500rpms chirps nicely. I only used one shim on the 2nd accumulator so it is the mildest setting from Transgo atm unless it is safe to actually not use a shim at all?

The best thing is the trans keeps the power coming all the way through the shifts but in stock form it would wash away.

Lock up is great because the kit came with a new convertor lock up valve that is an on off type instead of a slipping lock up. The OD servo probably helps alot too.

Here is a link to a DIY guide from Transgo which was a huge help http://www.transgo.com/video.php it is a MP4 zip file so you have to unzip it and then open with a media player from the options list. Worth a look just to see what is inside the 4L60E.

I got a new seperator plate which was handy because the old one was shagged where the checkballs contact it. Also got pinless billet foward accumulator and an alloy oe style with an extended pin runner which were both quite affordable. The oe stuff is plastic and were not sealing very well.

This job isn't too bad as long as you are very familiar with the destructions, the transgo help vid is a godsend too.

Good luck

Vinny1

Well I have started the process and I'm at my first snag. Do you have to lower the back of the trans to remove the componets in the side of the trans case? I have removed the wire retainer, 4th piston, e-clip, washer, spring and secound housing. Now I can't get the second piston off the shaft to remove it from the case. I believe if I can get it off the shaft the shaft will lower enough to remove it.

Vinny

chargedvx6

You can lever the trans laterally to make abit more room for the 2nd piston to come out. Make sure the pin is all the way home and it should give you enough clearance to slip it out.

Make sure you lube the crap out of the servo housing when they go back in, it is easy to cut the seals and hard to know until you drive it.

Vinny1

Thanks Frank, for your help!