This Really Sucks....help Help Help
This Really Sucks....help Help Help Im about to cry. I was on the autobahn (Germany) and lost 3/4 gears. I was driving in overdrive at about 60mph and gave it half gas or so...as soon as I passed the truck in front of me my rpms jumped up to 3500 or so but with no forward motion. I pulled the car over and checked the fluid and it looked a little dark and had the famous burnt smell. I limped it home in 2nd where its sitting right now. I don't think it overheated as I'm using an aftermarket/fanned cooler and its snowing a little.
The real B*&^#H is it has less than 1200 miles on it and cost me $2809 shipped to Germany.
What could it be? There were no slipping indications or noises of any kind. It happened in an instant with only the rpms to catch my notice. I put the tranny in myself and am very mechanically inclined...(aircraft mechanic by trade)....how hard is it to rebuild one of these suckers? Im going to try and call the shop I bought it from but would really appreciate some advice from the pro's. :performabuilt:
The real B*&^#H is it has less than 1200 miles on it and cost me $2809 shipped to Germany.
What could it be? There were no slipping indications or noises of any kind. It happened in an instant with only the rpms to catch my notice. I put the tranny in myself and am very mechanically inclined...(aircraft mechanic by trade)....how hard is it to rebuild one of these suckers? Im going to try and call the shop I bought it from but would really appreciate some advice from the pro's. :performabuilt:
yes, I bypassed the stock cooler straight into an aftermarket cooler with a fan and a temp switch set at 180 degrees. It also sits right in front of my SLP ram air scoop so it rarely if ever turns the fan on as air is sucked through it through the intake.
If it did overheat, what would my indications be? I'm assuming I would get a code of some kind right?
If it did overheat, what would my indications be? I'm assuming I would get a code of some kind right?
When you say you lost 3-4 do you mean when in the OD position the shifts 1-2 the neutral where 3rd should be or do you mean the car wont move in the OD and D positions?
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FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 3
From: D-F/W
Sorry to hear about your problems.
It sounds like your unit lost the 3/4 clutches.
I do not think there is an issue with overheating based on your comments. There are a multitude of resons for this to have happened on such a fresh unit. At the end of the day I would suggest that yes you could build it as you are very technically / mechanically inclined. But as you know with any assembly such as an automatic transmission there are going to be some special tools required, specific knowledge and techniques that need to be applied in the build. I'm not sure this is a good idea, but I'm not sure it's a bad idea either. Only you could answer that.
You stated that it is a relatively new unit.... is there going to be any warranty that can be applied?
g
It sounds like your unit lost the 3/4 clutches.
I do not think there is an issue with overheating based on your comments. There are a multitude of resons for this to have happened on such a fresh unit. At the end of the day I would suggest that yes you could build it as you are very technically / mechanically inclined. But as you know with any assembly such as an automatic transmission there are going to be some special tools required, specific knowledge and techniques that need to be applied in the build. I'm not sure this is a good idea, but I'm not sure it's a bad idea either. Only you could answer that.
You stated that it is a relatively new unit.... is there going to be any warranty that can be applied?
g
Thanks for the replies!! Here is the new info. Got a scanner on it and not 1 code. Nothing at all.
Performabuilt: I was going about 70-75 mph when it happened in OD. I went to D and nothing. After I pulled over and checked the fluid I put it back in D and it worked fine until it tried to go into 3rd. Basically, I can drive in 1, 2 or D until 3rd.
Ratchthed: It has only about 1100 miles on it and I maybe made 6-8 WOT runs while cruising around 40mph....(never from a dead stop) Ive been pretty easy on the tranny.
The only problem with my situation is that I live in Germany (military) and it would cost about $400 or so to ship the tranny one way. By the end of the day I'm $800 deep in shipping before a single thing was done to repair the tranny if it even fell in with the warranty. I've got a pretty healthy tool setup and actually have a stock tranny to tinker with first. If all I have to do is replace the 3/4 clutches, what special tools do you think I will need? I'm sure they must cost less than the $800 shipping I would have to pay! Any links appreciated!
Performabuilt: I was going about 70-75 mph when it happened in OD. I went to D and nothing. After I pulled over and checked the fluid I put it back in D and it worked fine until it tried to go into 3rd. Basically, I can drive in 1, 2 or D until 3rd.
Ratchthed: It has only about 1100 miles on it and I maybe made 6-8 WOT runs while cruising around 40mph....(never from a dead stop) Ive been pretty easy on the tranny.
The only problem with my situation is that I live in Germany (military) and it would cost about $400 or so to ship the tranny one way. By the end of the day I'm $800 deep in shipping before a single thing was done to repair the tranny if it even fell in with the warranty. I've got a pretty healthy tool setup and actually have a stock tranny to tinker with first. If all I have to do is replace the 3/4 clutches, what special tools do you think I will need? I'm sure they must cost less than the $800 shipping I would have to pay! Any links appreciated!
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If you have tools and are persistant and the trans did work ok before this failure its very possible you can do it. There are a couple special tools ussually required but with a little enginuity you can get by those. In your situation I woud give it a shot. If you would like instructios for disassembly let me now and Ill walk you through the repair, If you have one a cam would be helpfull and you will need a copy of office 2007 for info I will send you. If you dont have it you can download a trial copy for free at microsofts website.
Let me know if you wanna try, But once you remove the trans dont do anything till you have disassembly instructions.
Let me know if you wanna try, But once you remove the trans dont do anything till you have disassembly instructions.
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Verdad Gallardo Performabuilt: I'm going to give it a try as I suspect this stocker has a similar problem...this way I will know what I'm dealing with before I dig into the expensive one. I may have jumped the gun though 
I just bought/downloaded the ATSG rebuild manual...but I would rather an experienced person give me "real world" instructions. Please send me the info...I have office 07. I have a camera so that should not be a problem.
I just bought/downloaded the ATSG rebuild manual...but I would rather an experienced person give me "real world" instructions. Please send me the info...I have office 07. I have a camera so that should not be a problem. Ill work on it this eve I will need you to email me at performabuilt@yahoo.com As I dont think I can attatch word documents in here
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Here's the deal. If you have a failed 3-4 clutch then replacing it might not cure your problem for very long. My question is why did it fail in the first place? If the drum broke then cool we have a better chance. However if the drum broke I would like to know as to why. Was it a defect or was the 3rd gear shift abusive and maybe caused it? Take this info for what it is worth. I would contact who you bought it from and see what they are willing to do for you here. Take a look at the link in my Sig to get some ideas about your trans. Good luck. Vince
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
I don't like this idea one bit!
As Vince said, if the 3/4 clutch went out on a built unit, the transmission is probably faulty by design. The 3/4 clutch may be a symptom, not the cause. This means that it'll probably happen again and again and again until the thing that is causing the clutches to fail gets rectified. All in all, it sounds like it was a bad build.
The reason why I'm against you rebuilding it yourself is because it sounds like the unit IS under warranty. If you touch it yourself, the shop may void your warranty if there are signs you messed with the unit! In order to rebuild the whole tranny, you may find yourself spending hundreds of dollars in parts to correct the problem the shop made, and it may all be for nothing because if you mess up, now you're out the money for the parts you spent and now the shop won't honor your warranty.
I'd try calling the shop and see if you could get them to pay half the shipping, either that or demand your money back and get a tranny from a sponsor.
That's my $0.02. Take it for what it's worth. Sorry for your loss
As Vince said, if the 3/4 clutch went out on a built unit, the transmission is probably faulty by design. The 3/4 clutch may be a symptom, not the cause. This means that it'll probably happen again and again and again until the thing that is causing the clutches to fail gets rectified. All in all, it sounds like it was a bad build.
The reason why I'm against you rebuilding it yourself is because it sounds like the unit IS under warranty. If you touch it yourself, the shop may void your warranty if there are signs you messed with the unit! In order to rebuild the whole tranny, you may find yourself spending hundreds of dollars in parts to correct the problem the shop made, and it may all be for nothing because if you mess up, now you're out the money for the parts you spent and now the shop won't honor your warranty.
I'd try calling the shop and see if you could get them to pay half the shipping, either that or demand your money back and get a tranny from a sponsor.
That's my $0.02. Take it for what it's worth. Sorry for your loss
I don't like this idea one bit!
As Vince said, if the 3/4 clutch went out on a built unit, the transmission is probably faulty by design. The 3/4 clutch may be a symptom, not the cause. This means that it'll probably happen again and again and again until the thing that is causing the clutches to fail gets rectified. All in all, it sounds like it was a bad build.
The reason why I'm against you rebuilding it yourself is because it sounds like the unit IS under warranty. If you touch it yourself, the shop may void your warranty if there are signs you messed with the unit! In order to rebuild the whole tranny, you may find yourself spending hundreds of dollars in parts to correct the problem the shop made, and it may all be for nothing because if you mess up, now you're out the money for the parts you spent and now the shop won't honor your warranty.
I'd try calling the shop and see if you could get them to pay half the shipping, either that or demand your money back and get a tranny from a sponsor.
That's my $0.02. Take it for what it's worth. Sorry for your loss
As Vince said, if the 3/4 clutch went out on a built unit, the transmission is probably faulty by design. The 3/4 clutch may be a symptom, not the cause. This means that it'll probably happen again and again and again until the thing that is causing the clutches to fail gets rectified. All in all, it sounds like it was a bad build.
The reason why I'm against you rebuilding it yourself is because it sounds like the unit IS under warranty. If you touch it yourself, the shop may void your warranty if there are signs you messed with the unit! In order to rebuild the whole tranny, you may find yourself spending hundreds of dollars in parts to correct the problem the shop made, and it may all be for nothing because if you mess up, now you're out the money for the parts you spent and now the shop won't honor your warranty.
I'd try calling the shop and see if you could get them to pay half the shipping, either that or demand your money back and get a tranny from a sponsor.
That's my $0.02. Take it for what it's worth. Sorry for your loss
Problem is the company he got it from is over here and he wasnt the priginal purchaser. I have agreed to help him tough step by step to not only fix the problem but help him figure out why its happened, The vendor is not a sponsor here
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Rufretic, the reason the factory runs the atf through the rad first is to preheat the atf in the cooler climates. It is not required and is prefered when building a performance trans to eliminated the radiator for excessive heat. Also in case you spin a belt off you won't hurt the trans, no offence. Aircraft mechanics that I know dot the "I's" so to speak and sounds like he did a good job. Set the fan at 168. You'll almost never get that hot. Because he lives over seas, what was the warranty stating this dilema? If it was not discussed, he may have to eat the shipping costs or try to fix it himself. The problem is, is it in the car or in the trans? What did the original trans do? Does a company,repair facility, over there have a breakout box like a TranX 2000? Do they work on American cars? Lots of people have our stuff shipped over there. This would eliminate many of these questions. If you do get it repaired yourself, trailer it to a GM dealer to get it hooked up to check the parameters checked out to be sure if one is close by.
I am helping and he is working to fix it himself. The company is over here and they have warrantied it once allready for the previous owner of the car is my understanding, but shipping round trip is near 1000 dollars . So he and some help are going to attempt to fix it and repair the problem there. Hopefully determine the cause trans or car related and fix that too. But one step at a time working to get to the problem first.
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