help!!! rebuilding a 4l60e!!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, MO
help!!! rebuilding a 4l60e!! i'm rebuilding a 4l60e and i'm up to the point of intalling clutches on the input shaft and it seems that all the diagrams i have show more at least 1 more metal plate than i have that goes inbetween the clutches. i can't figure out why but it does. also there are these little black srings that go on the side of the big *** drum in there and i don't kno how to install them or really where they go. any help at all is valuable! sorry about the vagueness of this thread but i'm a first time 4l60e'er here. sorry and thanks again
Here is a little something for you. I just cut and pasted this from another thread listed in my Sig. I will look through my pic's to see if I have some info on the load relief springs that you have mentioned. They go in the open slots with the open ends of the springs pointing up. The spring side faces the steels. The solid part faces the drum if that makes sense. If you have installed the transgo hi rev spring kit (7-cs) in the input drum you will not need the load relief springs.
Next we will install the clutches and steels. Once again it will start with a clutch followed by a steel until all 8 frictions are installed along with 7 steels. Here are the photo's.
Now it is time to install the new pressure plate. These plates come in different thicknesses to adjust the 3-4 clutch clearance. You can also tighten this pack up by the use of thicker frictions. Some guy's will use different thickness steel plates or snap rings but I like to do it with frictions and pressure plates. Here is a photo of the pressure plate being installed along with the snap ring.
The drum is now complete. It is a good practice to check the clutch clearances with the use of feeler gauges after air checking the drum. Air checking the drum will seat the clutch pack and the snap ring in the drum. This will give us the most accurate measurement. Also while air checking the drum it will verify if there are any leaks in the drum and the seals of it. Here is a picture of the drum fully assembled ready to be installed in the trans. Also a one of the trans without the drum and one with it in the trans.
Next we will install the clutches and steels. Once again it will start with a clutch followed by a steel until all 8 frictions are installed along with 7 steels. Here are the photo's.
Now it is time to install the new pressure plate. These plates come in different thicknesses to adjust the 3-4 clutch clearance. You can also tighten this pack up by the use of thicker frictions. Some guy's will use different thickness steel plates or snap rings but I like to do it with frictions and pressure plates. Here is a photo of the pressure plate being installed along with the snap ring.
The drum is now complete. It is a good practice to check the clutch clearances with the use of feeler gauges after air checking the drum. Air checking the drum will seat the clutch pack and the snap ring in the drum. This will give us the most accurate measurement. Also while air checking the drum it will verify if there are any leaks in the drum and the seals of it. Here is a picture of the drum fully assembled ready to be installed in the trans. Also a one of the trans without the drum and one with it in the trans.
i'm rebuilding a 4l60e and i'm up to the point of intalling clutches on the input shaft and it seems that all the diagrams i have show more at least 1 more metal plate than i have that goes inbetween the clutches. i can't figure out why but it does. also there are these little black srings that go on the side of the big *** drum in there and i don't kno how to install them or really where they go. any help at all is valuable! sorry about the vagueness of this thread but i'm a first time 4l60e'er here. sorry and thanks again
Newer 4L60E's use one thick plate.
A lot of high performance 3-4 clutch packs come with the old style thin two piece plates.
Whats the date of the diagram you're looking at?
