Is it really weird that after putting my SS3600 in my car actually feels slower to me now? I just took it out for a drive this weekend for the first time since before winter and was kinda underwhelmed by it. lol. I got back and said "it needs more power...". I haven't done that in a while . I think in part it might be due to having to use a little more gas driving around normally, it just doesn't feel as responsive, which feels like a lack of power to me. But even when I step on it the only place it really feels better to me is in a place that used to be a dead zone. Like 35mph for example. That's the very bottom of 2nd, and it does feel a bit better than before, but the other stuff doesn't feel any better to me really. Maybe it's because the shifts kinda all just blend together now rather than hitting really hard like they did before (would they get hard again with the built tranny? Or even just a shift kit?). I don't know, maybe I just got in to my head that I would be losing some top end with the converter and now it feels slower to me because of that.... lol. Or maybe I'm just plain crazy, that's possible too

 

Mine felt much faster when I installed my first Yank ST3500. It made a significant improvement everywhere. Top-end might have felt different, but I don't think it was slower. It felt like an animal from a slow roll on the street.

 

Well, I still have to experience 1st since I don't have tires yet.... hehe.... but 2nd and up just don't seem very impressive to me. Maybe it's just because it's so much more smooth to me now. I don't have track times yet either to confirm what I'm feeling (or tell me I'm crazy more likely ).

I just took it for a drive the other day because i couldn't stand it anymore.... and it was sprinkling and then ground was wet.... I was upset by that. Anyway, it didn't even spin the tires on my road when it was wet at the bottom of second o_O. That just seemed wrong to me. lol. I suppose a full tank of gas and a 180lb guy in the back seat might have helped a bit, but still.... I kinda rolled into it through first and by the time second came around I had it to the floor and it still stuck. I was really surprised actually .

It shifts at like 80-82 now too instead of just about 90 like it used to. haha. Must be slipping quite a bit still...

Edit: I'm on the stock F1's from '00 with about 27k miles on them now just to let you know. That's how much traction I have in 1st with this converter

 

A stall makes most difference from a standstill dig. Just wait until its not wet out and get on it from a standstill. part throttle and rolling into the throttle at speed you won't notice much except the dead spots will be gone.

 

Any part throttle driving with a High Stall Converter will feel abnormal to anything you are used to experiencing with a stock converter.

The part throttle driveability should absolutely not be taken into consideration when running a converter that big on the street. The shifts are softer because the converter is absorbing the energy of the shift at part throttle.

If you install a "built" transmission you should not see much of a difference if it was designed and assembled correctly. Part throttle shifts in a High Performance transmission should be mildly more agressive than stock. In a unit like that you are looking for quick firm shifts as opposed to hard abusive shifts.

I would say that you should take it out with a jug of VHT to your favorite safe spot, warm the tires up and then hit it from a dig... then come back and tell us what you think with hot sticky tires and a WOT hot tire dig!

g

 

It just takes a little more throttle to get that "responsive" feel. You have to get used to pedaling it a little more and it will feel quite responsive.

There is a crossover point where even at part throttle the higher stall converter will feel much more responsive than stock.

 

Well stated.

g

 

This is an interesting thread. Is it just me or does it seem like a stall really hurts cars on the street? It makes a huge difference on the track, but seems to hurt them on the street. The reason I ask this is because I have seen a few cars put in a stall and get beat by cars they were pulling on before....

 

I felt that also when i first put my converter in last year. When i got to the track and picked up a couple of tenths i was happy.

 

sounds like they need some tires

 

I am affraid to drive my car on wet roads after getting a little sideways at 70 mph passing slow traffic. My tires have 80% or more tread too.

 

When I went from a stock converter to a YANK 3200 in my '98 Z there was instant gains on the street & around .7 at the track. Is your tune set up for a stall?

 

That is Driver Error. If they are getting beat from a roll, maybe their verter isn't well made and is inefficent or their shift points need tweaking.

When I had my PT4000 and 3.23s, I guarantee you that I could do 1.8x 60' from a stoplight as long as my tires were not dead cold. This was keeping my tires at 26lbs on the street too. The 5200 rpm shift extension made the car awesome from a roll.

The combination was loose and I added 3.73s to help make it more livable. It took more concentration and some practice to get the same launch with 3.73s. The point is the converter puts more torque to the rear wheels. It is no longer a simple stab and steer.

 

If you add a stall and it hurts your car on the street, something is seriously wrong. My converters have given me noticeable gains everywhere, street and strip. I believe it is the single best mod for an A4 car period. It made my car feel faster everywhere, especially the street. Some converters don't put out great top-end, but there are other converters that shine no matter what speed. Just got to get the one that best suits your needs.

 

A couple of the posts seem to make me think that you guys think this was the first (or one of the first) time I've driven it with the converter in there. I drove it all last fall before I put it away for the winter. I just drove it again the other day for the first time since then though and thought I would comment on some stuff. One big difference I notice from before for example is this. As the car would shift into the next gear before it would cause the whole car to surge forwards a bit for just a second because it would hit the next gear so firmly. Now all it does is slow down the acceleration a bit when I hit the next gear. No lunge forward or much of a feeling of a shift at all really, just going along and all the sudden I'm accelerating a little less hard because it hit the next gear.

And yes to the person who asked, I had green light motorsports tune it and they said they did everything necessary for the stall.

 

I can understand the "not as responsive" statement, but it just takes a little bit of time to acclimate to the change in throttle it takes to get it rolling and maintain speed.

As far as slower.... ummm are you sure you put in a 3600 converter? I did converter and gears at the same time and my car will blow the tires off all through 2nd gear, and if its wet, fuggedabowdit. I loved the way it felt even before I went to the track though. 1st gear on the street is hard to get to be useful all through the rpm range w/o spinning. Here's a video of mine on the street http://lsx.streetfire.net/search/ss3...14001683a4.htm

And sliding sideways at 70mph in the rain... you need to be more careful!

EDIT: just read your post above. Maybe its different since its so cold out and the tires are spinning on your shifts instead of grabbing and lunging you forward?

 

I guess the real proof will be in the ET the next time you go to the track.

 

I know that when i would switch over and drive an M6 with the similar mods as me, I swear it felt much faster, in part because of the violent jerking you get when slam the gears really quickly. But then at the track, I'd out ET the M6. The M6 creates a false sense of speed.

I don't know if you ever get a chance to ride in a V8 Cady or Lexus, but they accelerate really quickly, yet because of the isolation it doesn't feel fast until you look at the speedo and see you are passing 100 mph.

You're right that a high stall converter feels less violent on the upshift, but just look at the way the speedo keeps sweeping upward.

 

What gears are you running. It won't help lower your et as much as the converter, but it helps the car drive more like stock on the street. Plus a properly set up shift kit would help a small amount.

 

Definitely. Yank SS3600. It was written on the side and when I step on it it goes up to almost 4000rpm. And I can brake stall it on street tires up around 3000rpm too .

That's the way I felt like it should feel the way everybody talks about them.

I wasn't sideways at 70 in the rain o_O. I wish it would have done that. I wouldn't be here talking about this right now if it had . haha. I hit it a little after it went into second gear rolling into it (so maybe 45 or something?) and even in the wetness it didn't break the tires loose.

A couple thing about that statement. First, the tires aren't spinning at all (except in 1st), so it can't be that. And also, i drove the car when it was warmer out with the converter too. I put it in in the fall when it was still pretty warm out, so I felt the comparison only a few days apart.

I can definitely see that being true.

I know what you mean. My dad had a 3.6l CTS and it was pretty peppy, but 100 felt like 45. (actually my car is the same way if you ignore the engine/exhaust/140mph wind noise. lol)

Here you go. This will show you that. You guys can see if it looks like it should.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...02011ae80c.htm
In that one where you can see the tach/speedo I basically used 2nd that entire pull. I start in first and forgot to turn traction control off so as soon as they squeaked a little the traction control kicked my foot back and it went to second. So basically 1st didn't do anything and it was a pull in 2nd from about 35mph. You can just barely see my shift extension at the end of that too.... 4900rpm .

This one is kinda long, but you can see a lot of it. The description tells what I did and when (except the very end it should say "up to 3000rpm"). The first little thing with just 50% throttle and it jumping up to about 3500-3600rpm should show you that it is definitely a 3600 . And the time after that at you can see where it jumps to at the very bottom of 2nd gear. I just wish you could see more of the speedometer in this one...
http://lsx.streetfire.net/recentvide...f000326214.htm



Stock 3.23's.

Wow that's a long post...