TH350 Converters
TH350 Converters What converter do you guys that have 350/400 trans. use or recommend. I'm about to swap out the 6 speed for a th350 and would like some advice on converters. My set up is on a 95% track car with stock heads, TR cam, boltons, spooled 9" with 4.11's. Plans for this year are more gear, ported heads, more cam (something along the lines of a MS or TREX) and lighter weight.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 655
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From: In a van down by the river, Missouri
I just had a 3000 transmission specialties converter restalled to a 4200. Waiting to get it back....
Converter choice is important. Get the wrong size and your setup wont work right (in my case the 3000 was hurting me off the line).
Dont get anything smaller than 4000 or you wont be happy.
Converter choice is important. Get the wrong size and your setup wont work right (in my case the 3000 was hurting me off the line).
Dont get anything smaller than 4000 or you wont be happy.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 3
From: D-F/W
These are very appropriate questions... they aren't dumb for sure.
The 8" converter is a very in your face high stalling unit that should be relegated to the track because it generates alot of heat. It has been around forever and is a little workhorse.
A 9" or 9-1/2" converter is used today because of it's availability and is relatively inexpensive to work with as compared to the billet units that are out there. It is very reliable and very formidable in the right hands.
A 10" converter would be something you would not be recommended in your application as it has too much mass.
I would recommend a relatively loose converter for your setup and I rarely do that. The reason inthis case is that it is a 95% track car. I would suggest you get something that will stall in the 3,600 to 3,800 rpm range in order to take full benefit of the cam and gear combination. it would definately need to be tightened up if you hit it with the gas down the road.
If you would like to discuss some options I could help you out. We offer a full line of Racing Converters. They are custom built by a local shop I chose to work with a few years ago because they are Drag racers themselves. Meaning, they run very big cubed cars that go very fast on Alcohol. When we talk about racing converters they get it, and that is huge to me to have a local outfit that I can take a unit to and get immediate service with.
g
The 8" converter is a very in your face high stalling unit that should be relegated to the track because it generates alot of heat. It has been around forever and is a little workhorse.
A 9" or 9-1/2" converter is used today because of it's availability and is relatively inexpensive to work with as compared to the billet units that are out there. It is very reliable and very formidable in the right hands.
A 10" converter would be something you would not be recommended in your application as it has too much mass.
I would recommend a relatively loose converter for your setup and I rarely do that. The reason inthis case is that it is a 95% track car. I would suggest you get something that will stall in the 3,600 to 3,800 rpm range in order to take full benefit of the cam and gear combination. it would definately need to be tightened up if you hit it with the gas down the road.
If you would like to discuss some options I could help you out. We offer a full line of Racing Converters. They are custom built by a local shop I chose to work with a few years ago because they are Drag racers themselves. Meaning, they run very big cubed cars that go very fast on Alcohol. When we talk about racing converters they get it, and that is huge to me to have a local outfit that I can take a unit to and get immediate service with.
g
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