Same here, i love my 3.42's i think they're just right for digs and rolls. 
. And then there's my buddies and i 
Racing from a roll?
I have 3.42 gears. If I drop from OD to D at 65-75mph, my rpms will go up to 3200-3600. Not a problem.
okay, so lets say if im on the freeway doing 65-75 and decide to play, what would be the safest speed to slow down to and manually drop it from OD to D? i just dont want to be doing 65-75 and drop it and damn tranny blows.
there was also a thread a long while back where a guy said he had better line pressure in OD than D? and i guess with not so much line pressure in D it killed the 3-4 clutch or something like that. im surprised none of the tranny sponsors have dropped there .02 cents
there was also a thread a long while back where a guy said he had better line pressure in OD than D? and i guess with not so much line pressure in D it killed the 3-4 clutch or something like that. im surprised none of the tranny sponsors have dropped there .02 cents
If you're too worried about the trans taking a crap, start saving up for a built one, when i was looking at prices, some of our sponsors had some really good deals going on.
i thought it wouldnt go into 4th or OD unless u hit a certain speed like over 125ish or so?
i know the whole "IS IT BETTER IN OD or D" threads have been posted before. but im still wondering which would be better to drive in as well as not wear out your tranny? honestly, i dont see how driving and racing in OD would be bad? like i said, i dont think it goes into OD or 4TH unless u go over a certain speed right? one thing i dont want to do is keep shifting from D to OD and vice versa. i think that would hurt the tranny from constantly shifting.
i know the whole "IS IT BETTER IN OD or D" threads have been posted before. but im still wondering which would be better to drive in as well as not wear out your tranny? honestly, i dont see how driving and racing in OD would be bad? like i said, i dont think it goes into OD or 4TH unless u go over a certain speed right? one thing i dont want to do is keep shifting from D to OD and vice versa. i think that would hurt the tranny from constantly shifting.
my a4 has P R N D 3 2 1. Where is the OD everyone is talking about?
No other than using more gas there is nothing wrong with driving around in D around town
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That "part" that is pictured is the planetary gear set. When rebuilding a 4L60E, all racers should upgrade that part to a 5 pinion piece. See how that one has 4 pinions? When put under extreme load, it tries to turn into a square. A 5-pinion piece carries the strain on an extra pinion and resists deformation and stays round.
If I roll race my '94, I'm not in OD anyway. I'm in D (3rd) and I will only run up to the top of 3rd. If it ain't decided by then, just shake hands and say good race. No reason to drive that fast on the street, even on a "deserted" highway.
One poster suggested starting in 2nd, and that would be a good idea if the start MPH for the roll made sense. You would save a second of transmission "reaction time" that it takes to downshift. An old bracket racer like me would need to remember to upshift!
If I roll race my '94, I'm not in OD anyway. I'm in D (3rd) and I will only run up to the top of 3rd. If it ain't decided by then, just shake hands and say good race. No reason to drive that fast on the street, even on a "deserted" highway.
One poster suggested starting in 2nd, and that would be a good idea if the start MPH for the roll made sense. You would save a second of transmission "reaction time" that it takes to downshift. An old bracket racer like me would need to remember to upshift!
im just keeping mines in OD as well man!! if i decide to play and roll race, ill still leave it in OD and just slow down and let the computer downshift itself and go from there!!! i dont want to constantly keep shifting from OD to D back to OD and vice versa.. i think doing that will definitely hurt the tranny.
why not just do 1 big poll!!! LOL!!
why not just do 1 big poll!!! LOL!!
I click it into 3rd and let it do the work from there. Mine is fully built with a Stall and I literally have no delay in a down shift..just a jolt and then it launches.
I leave it in 3rd cause I don't want to go into OD under Full Throttle..and I hit my top-end of 135mph pretty ****** quick..well infront of the other guy.
I only give it about half petal for a few seconds then I lay into it..that is all I need to pull or I get Tire Spin.
Now on Slicks it's a whole different animal..
But even then a Full-Throttle Romp will break them loose at 60mph..I got to work on my Suspension..
I leave it in 3rd cause I don't want to go into OD under Full Throttle..and I hit my top-end of 135mph pretty ****** quick..well infront of the other guy.
I only give it about half petal for a few seconds then I lay into it..that is all I need to pull or I get Tire Spin.
Now on Slicks it's a whole different animal..
But even then a Full-Throttle Romp will break them loose at 60mph..I got to work on my Suspension..
Manual up/down shifting and WOT 3-4 SHIFT I am not clear what this thread started as but reading it appears all of the above
1-For WOT upshift into 4th you need 2 things and upgraded 3-4 clutch set as power is being transfered there. Plus and updated servo such as the Sonnax super hold for OD or the fairbanks and its a good idea in the 4th to greatly reduce the 4th acumulator or eliminate unlike 2nd where it should remain. With this a WOT into fourth shoud not be and issue.
2-But this thread seems to have become a what can you do as far as down shifting goes during a roll race, And provided you have not installed the transgo HD2 I would have to say what ever you want. Because the facts are the PCM is still pretty much in control. In fact there may be some real advanatges to manual downshifts. One would be for instance in your downshift to manual first the low/reverse clutch comes on protecting the low roller clutch from stress.In addition in the lower manual gears the overun clutch comes on also helpig to protect the input sprag by supporting it.
To say manual shifting of the A4 is bad would insinuate a full manual valve body set up would be bad and most consider that set up to be stronger overall. And nothing different happens with it than happens with the normal auto shifted manually
1-For WOT upshift into 4th you need 2 things and upgraded 3-4 clutch set as power is being transfered there. Plus and updated servo such as the Sonnax super hold for OD or the fairbanks and its a good idea in the 4th to greatly reduce the 4th acumulator or eliminate unlike 2nd where it should remain. With this a WOT into fourth shoud not be and issue.
2-But this thread seems to have become a what can you do as far as down shifting goes during a roll race, And provided you have not installed the transgo HD2 I would have to say what ever you want. Because the facts are the PCM is still pretty much in control. In fact there may be some real advanatges to manual downshifts. One would be for instance in your downshift to manual first the low/reverse clutch comes on protecting the low roller clutch from stress.In addition in the lower manual gears the overun clutch comes on also helpig to protect the input sprag by supporting it.
To say manual shifting of the A4 is bad would insinuate a full manual valve body set up would be bad and most consider that set up to be stronger overall. And nothing different happens with it than happens with the normal auto shifted manually
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