ngozer

iTrader: (1)

i wasnt sure if this should be in the tuning section but anyway, mods are in my sig. i got a hypertech and was wondering what i should set my shift firmness to with my verter and all. thanx.

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

TTT

jeffrey G

I would go ahead and set it to 100%..thats what I have without a converter..so why not with one =)

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

thanx jeff...... i went on a run today with it set at 100% and my shift points set @ 5,6, and 7 with my rev limiter set @ 6600. didnt really shift "hard" but it was quicker and pulled like an ox. i would also like more input b/c i heard alot of controversy on this matter.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

ive heard runnig tach past 6 is a bad idea for yuor stock internals

JoSeY

I run mine to 6500rpm and I've got 102,000 miles...if you go past 6700 your bearings start to not like you very much and the stock rod bolts won't hold. But 6,000-6,500 and your motor will last all day long...just make sure you keep 6qts of oil in there at all time and have fun!!

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

thanx josey,
i also called thunder racing, slp, lg, and ls1 speed. all but one said it's safe to go to 6200-6800 rpm range and shift firmness to 100% will be ok. ls1 speed said it wouldn't be a good idea to go much past 6200 and not to set the firmness up too much.

TA/30th 1002

IMHO: If your talking to a trany salesman he's gonna tell you "it'll be fine" ... If your talking to a trany technician he's gone tell you what the shift firmness does in a "systems operation" type of an explanation. ... Now who are you going to listen to?


As far as revving your engine: I'll tell you the technical explanation ... in your stock engine the valve train is gonna limit your rpm potential. On a mild over rev; your valves will not be able to keep pace with the cam lobe profile (this is called float) and they will slam shut on there face seats. This will cause fretting (beating up) to the keeper area and eventually over time lead to loosing a valve keeper unexpectedly (now you've dropped a valve = catastrophic failure). ... Over rev your valve train a little more than mild and you'll actually hear it misfiring. ... Over rev a little higher and your valves will still be freefalling trying to shut when your pistons are nearing the top of their stroke. The valves always get bent when they contact the piston and this failure is immediate. ... So now that you know a little more about a valve train, you decide what rev limit set up is right for you.

My stock rev limiter was GM set at 6200. I set it to 6400 to get it out of the way of my stock 2-3 shift point when in performance mode. My 2-3 shift is now 6250.

Hope this helps you some ... Ron

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

the 2 articles i read that finally made the decsion for me was one and an article in hpp that said reving past 6k is one of the top 10 dont's for a ls1 and 2 when i carefully read my hpp3 manual it states that the rev limit change option is for modfied valve trains (although the guys at hypertech reccomended shiftpoints that were in the 6300 ish range which i tried for a while and liked but figured its was unnessary abuse) as far as claims by some that ive recently red of reving to 6500 and higher i personally think that it may be possible and even not bad but not with the stock cam. im no expert but i do belive that certain cams put more stress on your engine than others and therefore some can get away with reving past 6 on stock valves and springs just by doing a different cam. thew settings that felt the best to me were +3+6+9 and 100% but currently im using +0 on all shifts and 100% firmness beacouse i feel its the safest for the car lets keep thi going though cause hell if it is safe id like to go back to +3+6+9 cause i felt it gave the best shifts for raceing street (landed me right on 4500 rpm after each shift)

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

i'm definatly gonna try that and see where it gets me but i think our cars dont make peak torque till around 4500-5000 range and peak hp at 5800-6100 range SI and stock valvetrain. i know what valve float is and to my suprise they didnt float at 6500 range. not to say i'm gonna take it up that high but i liked the pull and if felt like it could go even more. when i get dynoed i will be how the power curve looks and take it from there. than to the track and see what is beat for shift points. this winter i probably will put ls6 spring and retainers in just to be safe cause i'm gonna have the car in storage so why not. as far as the firmness, from what i hear the hpp3 uses the pump to creat the firmness. some say this is hard on the pump. again as posted above 3 said it would be ok and ls1 speed said dont go to high. i hear setting the firmness up a little bit is actually good for your tanny b/c it cuts down on clutch slippage reducing heat thus saving some tranny life but along with that i hear it is bad on the planetarys putting more pressure in them. i havent heard of alot of planetarys going out so i know quite a few people have it set at 50%. that's probably where i'll have it and see till i go to the track and then i'll adjust it and see if there's any gain. other than that i guess i'll have to find a happy median.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I agree with TA 30th. 6200 shift points and a 6300/6400 rpm limiter are what I would use (and did use) on a stock valvetrain.

Spinning a stock bottom end to 6500 is ok. No way should you go 6800 on a stock bottom bottom end unless you are willing to rebuild it. I'm not saying it will break, only that your chance of failure probably increases to about 10%. High enough that you know plenty of guys who got away with it, but there is still a real chance of $2500+ rebuild in your future.

I would not use over 50% firmness. Higher line pressure electronically is just not worth the risk. Again its a risk of failure issue. At 25% setting, there is almost no increase in risk. The 100% setting is definitely riskier and there is no documented gain at the track (ET or MPH)from running 100% compared with 50%.

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

ok i took some advice and set the shift points to 4, 4, and 5 with the firmness set at 75% (forgot to set it at 50%) and the rev limiter set at 6400. i'm setting the firmness at 50% as i type. out of 3 runs i hit 6100-6200 1-2, and same for 2-3 shift. i was gonnna try a 3-4 shift but i looked at the speedo and i was doing about 110mph @ around 4500 rpm and i was going past a super market so i decided to slow down. all 3 runs was from a 10-15 mph coast and laying 20-30ft posi marks of course pulling hard all the way. i may set the firmness to 25% in the future i havent decided on 25 or 50% yet. well that's my outcome so far. next month i plan on getting dynoed and seeing what the hp tq curve looks like and going from there. this winter i will probably go for ls6 springs like i said b4 and set the points to 6400-6500 range most likely.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

dam nogozer i called slp and talked to joey today and he told me not to go past 6000 for shifts he said the engine could go higher but it is not reccomended for a daily driver also he said not to use past 50% increase in line firmness seems even slp cant get it straight but that does coenside to what their head engineer said in hpp last month

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

like i said above if you read your hypertech manual it says that the rev limiter changing option is for modfied valvetrains only but i will agree the car felt better pulling to to 6300 and according to the dyno i just did 3 weeks ago peak tq was bout 4500 while stock had peak round 4000 and peak hp was round 5600 while stock was about 5400

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

well you could look at it this way shifting at 6 with revlimit of 62 is safe its kinda a toss up over shifing at 6300 some like it some are against it while most diaagree with shifing any higher also there is a peformanace disadvantage shifting past 6300 cause now your running over your powerband when at 6300 you would be perfict (at leats according to my dyno) finally id say shifiting at 6000 or 6300 is not gonna make a large difference in et's (unless you happen to get a 3-4 at the end of a run)so why risk it ..... but like i said the thought of going back to 6300 is still fresh in my head

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

somebody should call gm and ask them where a ls1 can be ran to for daily use i tried asking the local dealership but they were not decsive the guy there said 6300 would be ok in his mind but did not have any proof to back it up it was just his 2 cents

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

also i dont see how you tached the same for the 1-2 as the 2-3 when the same increase in mph would net like 1\3 less rpm do to being in a higher gear stock points are all round 6 a plus 4 with 4.11s would have put you on top of the 63-64 range on 1-2 and the 62 ish range in the 2-3 dont trust your tach mine reads 5500- on my 2-3 but i know from gm specs that it is just over 6000 so go figure while it readsalmost right on my 1-2 shift

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

hmm..... i dont remember who i talked to but that's really odd that they tell me one thing yesterday and tell you another thing today.

ngozer

iTrader: (1)

i was thinking the same thing you said so i really didnt see how i tached the same for each gear either but if it is correct i like the fact that i managed to keep it in the6000-6200 range (hopefully unless me tach is lying). maybe it is b/c when i started in 1st i was spinning but i can't get away from that at all. i heard the tach has been known to be off 100-200 rpm around 6000, i guess i'll just have to see what it looks like on the dyno i guess or buy myself another tach. i may tune it all back to stock and retune like i had i today and see if it changes.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

for now im sticking with 50% firmness and stock shift points i figure its the best for the car