LT1 M6 to A4 attempted writeup
03-08-2008, 08:55 PM
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LT1 M6 to A4 attempted writeup Ok- I know there are alot of people on here wanting to know more information about swapping from an M6 to an A4.
Well I am doing my swap and am in the middle of it, so I will try to update with more information as it comes along..
I was originally going to be going from the M6 to the 4l60e A4, and i still might, but however as of right now I am putting in a 700R4 with the reluctor wheel speedo sensor in the tailshaft. My 700R4 is from an early 90's' v8 truck, but I pulled the tailshaft off of a Chevy Astro van with a 700r4 because it uses the same bolt mounting holes for the torque arm as the F-body.
Also, some people might want to keep the cruise - for that you will need a 93 throttle body bracket.
I am keeping my stock one and just enlarging the hole where the cruise cable used to be to put in the TV cable for my 700r4...
Ok So here is what you need to do for an LT1 car and swap in a 700R4 or the 4L60 ( not 4l60E).
First Remove all of your M6 stuff, and save the black shift boot that screws to the trans tunnel that the shifter stick comes through. Put that onto a piece of sheet metal ( doesnt have to be very thick at all) and trace it with a marker.
Follow the trace and cut it out with a set of metal shears. Then place the boot back on the metal sheet you just cut out and drill the holes to put screws in to hold down the plate.
Then, place in your stock A4 shifter, and guestimate where the grommet for the shifter cable needs to go ( which is about 1 inch in front of the hole on the shifter frame for the cable to go through).
Cut a hole about 1 3/4" around to stick the shifter cable and grommet through
Then You place in your A4 Shifter and line up the holes in the rear of it in front of the SRS discrimination sensor that is usually like under where the cup holder in the console would be.
Line up the rear 2 bolt holes and bolt them in. Then place on your console and put your top shift indicator plate on
Move it back and forth so that you make sure that all positions work and that it is all lined up.
Then Stand back and admire your hard work that you've spent a couple hours on..
Coming soon--------------------------------
Wiring up the Neutral Saftey switch, Wiring up reverse lights. And thats pretty much it.. for the stuff that most people dont understand..
As for the pedals, You take down the U shaped steering column bracket ( the same as you did when you took out the M6 pedals), Put in the A4 pedals.
Also- you will need to make a cardboard cut out of the shape of where the Master Cylinder bolted to the firewall and connected to the clutch pedal.
Here you cut out another metal plate and put it on.I reccomend leaving the brake booster loose for this step so that you can drill holes in the cover plate you made and bolt it to the firewall. ( i made the mistake of bolting on my brake booster first and then I didnt feel like unbolting and fussing with it again to bolt the plate in, so i used some RTV).
You will need a 153 tooth externaly balanced flywheel for a 1pc rear main seal SBC, and of course a 700r4/4l60 torque converter.
Will have more soon I'll take pics of the wiring tomorrow.
Well I am doing my swap and am in the middle of it, so I will try to update with more information as it comes along..
I was originally going to be going from the M6 to the 4l60e A4, and i still might, but however as of right now I am putting in a 700R4 with the reluctor wheel speedo sensor in the tailshaft. My 700R4 is from an early 90's' v8 truck, but I pulled the tailshaft off of a Chevy Astro van with a 700r4 because it uses the same bolt mounting holes for the torque arm as the F-body.
Also, some people might want to keep the cruise - for that you will need a 93 throttle body bracket.
I am keeping my stock one and just enlarging the hole where the cruise cable used to be to put in the TV cable for my 700r4...
Ok So here is what you need to do for an LT1 car and swap in a 700R4 or the 4L60 ( not 4l60E).
First Remove all of your M6 stuff, and save the black shift boot that screws to the trans tunnel that the shifter stick comes through. Put that onto a piece of sheet metal ( doesnt have to be very thick at all) and trace it with a marker.
Follow the trace and cut it out with a set of metal shears. Then place the boot back on the metal sheet you just cut out and drill the holes to put screws in to hold down the plate.
Then, place in your stock A4 shifter, and guestimate where the grommet for the shifter cable needs to go ( which is about 1 inch in front of the hole on the shifter frame for the cable to go through).
Cut a hole about 1 3/4" around to stick the shifter cable and grommet through
Then You place in your A4 Shifter and line up the holes in the rear of it in front of the SRS discrimination sensor that is usually like under where the cup holder in the console would be.
Line up the rear 2 bolt holes and bolt them in. Then place on your console and put your top shift indicator plate on
Move it back and forth so that you make sure that all positions work and that it is all lined up.
Then Stand back and admire your hard work that you've spent a couple hours on..
Coming soon--------------------------------
Wiring up the Neutral Saftey switch, Wiring up reverse lights. And thats pretty much it.. for the stuff that most people dont understand..
As for the pedals, You take down the U shaped steering column bracket ( the same as you did when you took out the M6 pedals), Put in the A4 pedals.
Also- you will need to make a cardboard cut out of the shape of where the Master Cylinder bolted to the firewall and connected to the clutch pedal.
Here you cut out another metal plate and put it on.I reccomend leaving the brake booster loose for this step so that you can drill holes in the cover plate you made and bolt it to the firewall. ( i made the mistake of bolting on my brake booster first and then I didnt feel like unbolting and fussing with it again to bolt the plate in, so i used some RTV).
You will need a 153 tooth externaly balanced flywheel for a 1pc rear main seal SBC, and of course a 700r4/4l60 torque converter.
Will have more soon I'll take pics of the wiring tomorrow.
Last edited by indirocz28; 03-14-2008 at 06:04 PM.
03-09-2008, 09:56 PM
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Wiring - using a stock A4 shifter with BTSI solenoid, and still with the M6 harness
Ok-
I happened to be lucky enough to pull an interior wiring harness from a V6 car to use the neutral saftey harness and wire up the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock... I reccomend trying to atleast get the stock wiring harness for the stock NSS..
On the stock Neutral saftey switch you have the following wires:
Thick Yellow wire ( 10 ga i believe) To clutch Start switch
Thick Brown wire (10 ga also) To clutch start switch
orange/w black- Still controversial about this one ( doing more research)
Light green - Connect to light green from Backup light switch from T56 harness
thin brown- Connect to the brown wire on the backup light switch connector
and a black w/ white tracer - goes to a good ground, its supposed to go to an engine ground, but I just ran it to the bracket under the front of the console.
Using the thick yellow and brown wires coming from the neutral saftey switch, run them over to the Clutch Start switch ( the rectangle black switch with the thick yellow & brown wires running into it).
Disconnect the switch/ cut the plug in end off or make up some terminals to plug into the end of it. Plug the yellow into the yellow, and the brown into the brown
This enables your Neutral saftey switch to have to be in park or Neutral to start the car, Just like you used to have to push in the clutch pedal to start the car.
Next, I wanted to wire up the reverse option in the NSS so that the reverse lights work. So, I came up with a simple solution because I didnt want to cut into the M6 engine control harness.
What I did was cut a small flap in the front of my panel that fills the hole where the M6 shifter came through. Through that flap I pulled up the Backup light switch connector that originaly was located on the passenger front side of the T56.
From there I took 2 red butt-connectors and cut one end off of each, I shoved that end over the terminals in the backup light switch connector and then wired in the Light green from the NSS to the Light green of the backup light switch connector. I then wired the thin brown wire from the NSS to the brown wire for the Backup light connector.
Wiring Up the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock Solenoid ( BTSI)
Function - To keep the shifter electronicaly locked in park until the brake pedal is depressed.
I did wire up the BTSI, but At this current moment I do believe I have it wired up wrong because it doesnt seem to be functioning properly.
I am going to go back in and change the wiring and figure it out.
What I believe you are supposed to do is use the thin tan wire from the BTSI, and the Light blue w/ Black from the BTSI and connect them to what would be the reverse lockout solenoid connector from the T56 harness, either that or it is supposed to go to the Skip Shift connector. If not, What I did is almost the proper way.
What I did is more complicated, and even though it runs through the BTSI, it is not functioning as i stated before, but I still have power and can start the car w/o the BTSI functioning. So, I will leave that out until I do more research.
Either way, The orange w/black tracer from the NSS needs to be tapped into the Tan w/ white wire from the BTSI solenoid.
The wiring is almost complete, and you could probably get by without using the BTSI, but Im going to try to see if I can make it work.
- WILL UPDATE SOON
Ok-
I happened to be lucky enough to pull an interior wiring harness from a V6 car to use the neutral saftey harness and wire up the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock... I reccomend trying to atleast get the stock wiring harness for the stock NSS..
On the stock Neutral saftey switch you have the following wires:
Thick Yellow wire ( 10 ga i believe) To clutch Start switch
Thick Brown wire (10 ga also) To clutch start switch
orange/w black- Still controversial about this one ( doing more research)
Light green - Connect to light green from Backup light switch from T56 harness
thin brown- Connect to the brown wire on the backup light switch connector
and a black w/ white tracer - goes to a good ground, its supposed to go to an engine ground, but I just ran it to the bracket under the front of the console.
Using the thick yellow and brown wires coming from the neutral saftey switch, run them over to the Clutch Start switch ( the rectangle black switch with the thick yellow & brown wires running into it).
Disconnect the switch/ cut the plug in end off or make up some terminals to plug into the end of it. Plug the yellow into the yellow, and the brown into the brown
This enables your Neutral saftey switch to have to be in park or Neutral to start the car, Just like you used to have to push in the clutch pedal to start the car.
Next, I wanted to wire up the reverse option in the NSS so that the reverse lights work. So, I came up with a simple solution because I didnt want to cut into the M6 engine control harness.
What I did was cut a small flap in the front of my panel that fills the hole where the M6 shifter came through. Through that flap I pulled up the Backup light switch connector that originaly was located on the passenger front side of the T56.
From there I took 2 red butt-connectors and cut one end off of each, I shoved that end over the terminals in the backup light switch connector and then wired in the Light green from the NSS to the Light green of the backup light switch connector. I then wired the thin brown wire from the NSS to the brown wire for the Backup light connector.
Wiring Up the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock Solenoid ( BTSI)
Function - To keep the shifter electronicaly locked in park until the brake pedal is depressed.
I did wire up the BTSI, but At this current moment I do believe I have it wired up wrong because it doesnt seem to be functioning properly.
I am going to go back in and change the wiring and figure it out.
What I believe you are supposed to do is use the thin tan wire from the BTSI, and the Light blue w/ Black from the BTSI and connect them to what would be the reverse lockout solenoid connector from the T56 harness, either that or it is supposed to go to the Skip Shift connector. If not, What I did is almost the proper way.
What I did is more complicated, and even though it runs through the BTSI, it is not functioning as i stated before, but I still have power and can start the car w/o the BTSI functioning. So, I will leave that out until I do more research.
Either way, The orange w/black tracer from the NSS needs to be tapped into the Tan w/ white wire from the BTSI solenoid.
The wiring is almost complete, and you could probably get by without using the BTSI, but Im going to try to see if I can make it work.
- WILL UPDATE SOON
03-22-2008, 06:38 PM
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Ok- just saw you had the a4 harness.. Hmm.. You will need to dig through the wiring schematics and wire up the reverse lights accordingly.. If you need them I think i can get you some from Alldata...
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06-05-2011, 12:46 AM
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You are doing this to an LSx car then I assume? If you have the a4 pcm and wire it up according or swap wiring harnesses and use an LSx 4l60e you should have no issues. Especially since with tuning software you can program the shift points and converter lockup/unlock..
