I'm getting ready to install my transgo hd2 but the instructions that came with it are crappy and it didn't come with a video. Does anyone have instructions on how to remove the valve body? Also any info on drilling/enlarging the holes would be great. From what I've read so far on here a lot of people only install parts of the kit, or do things differently. Hopefully one of the transmission experts will chime in and help me out. Thanks.
Brad

 

Seriously if you can't figure out how to take the valve body off don't even bother removing the pan.

 

Serously if you can't post something helpful stay the **** out of my thread.

 

People come in here looking for help not some unwanted negative comments...

I'm sure one of our great sponsors will chime in and get you some detailed install instructions.

 

Thats real helpful when you get in over your head and ruin your transmission. Or should I let it go, let you go ahead and have at it?

Ok, to remove the valve body, take the car out of park and apply the parking brake, jack the car up on a lift or jack stands.
Remove the pan, fluid and filter.
Unclip all the wiring connections and let the wiring hang, remove the PWM solenoid by taking the clip out with a small screwdriver, remove the TCC solenoid from the pump since it's wires do not unclip and move it out of the way.
Then remove all the bolts, leave one in the middle for last so you can hold the VB with one hand and unscrew the bolt with another. Drop it down and work the link out of the manual valve.
Put it on a clean work surface.

For the seperator plate hole sizes, stock converter .082 for second, .093 for all others. Use one shim washer for the second accumulator.

Now refer to something else and remove the transmission.


Remove the o-ring from the input shaft, remove the pump bolts and pull the pump out.

Pull the input shaft/drum assembly out, remove the 3-4 clutch, forward clutch, forward sprag. Use a clutch spring depressor to compress the forward spring retainer. Remove the forward clutch return springs, and replace them with the ones supplied in the kit, remove the 3-4 spring retainer and replace the springs with those supplied in the kit.
Let me know when you get this far and I'll continue.
Oh yea while you're in there check the forward, second, and fourth accumulator pistons if any are plastic order aluminum ones asap so they will be ready for assembly.

 

While you're in the trans it's a real good idea to upgrade to a beast sunshell and 3-4 clutch pack. Might as well have a look at the other clutches too and order new ones as needed, get a wide bushing for the sun gear.
This is where the sponsors come in handy because they want your business, you have to buy these parts somewhere, I'm doing this for free.

I would just love to see a sponsor come in this thread and give a write up on how to install this kit from beginning to end? Any one of you guys got the time?

I will guarantee you that WILL NOT HAPPEN.

But still let me know when you get the trans apart and we'll continue this. You're going to need to buy a clutch spring depressor so that should take a few days to come in, I'll be waiting.

 

Well First if your not expereinced with a trans I definatly would not do the internal mods, Stick with the valve body. I may get some time this weekend to actually do a complete write up on the transgo install at least from the valve body perspective, I have beeb considering it for a while now since it is very true the instructions that come with it though not that bad were not written for the layman for sure, But if you takel it anyway before then or if I dont get the chance and have any questions during the install feel free to give me a call.
Frank at PerformaBuilt 570-578-5686

 

But you will include the internal mods in your write up won't you?
I don't build transmissions for a living and I've always installed the complete kit no matter which trans I was putting one in. Never had a problem with the instructions either though.

 

If I do them I will include those in a sub section. Though I dont suggest again the LAYMAN try it though you may be like me willing and able to tackel and ussually with success anything mechanical , Many people are not,

 

for some reason It always seems the transgo kits are involved lol try a sk700 kit for a 700 try figuring what valves and springs you have there it will give you a headache

 

This vid should help you visualise what you have to do b4 you actually atempt the job. http://www.transgo.com/video.php

I would definitely recommend that you shouldn't attempt the install until you have studied and comprehended the instructions fully. Once you have dropped the pan it isn't the time to be working things out.

The best tip I can give you is to do with refitting the valvebody at the end if the install. Follow the sequence in the vid for refitting to the letter and I don't think it can be done in a more appropriate sequence.

Get some Vaseline because it will be your friend during the install. Everything that is a contact surface needs the Vas.

 

I can do it in my sleep!

 

I am sure you can Vince as can I but Robs a bit younger than either of us

 

Kids! JFWY Rob!

 

Definitely good advice, but then you miss the critical benefit of better high rpm oiling that comes by replacing the pump spring. That's why, if you don't know transmission internals, the best deal overall is to pay somebody who does to do it. Best $150 I've spent on my car.

 

Basically my point but much more polite. I too am not a fan of installing half the kit. It's not even half the kit actually but the point is to get into the trans, at that time you have the chance to upgrade the sunshell and 3-4 clutch. I did my car at 32,000 miles and the sunshell did not look good.
Plus if you read the OP's other post he's got a pan and filter full of metal already.

 

lol thats ok I can take it just as well as I can give it out... the first time I used the sk700 kit I had a headache for weeks worked really well but i decided to start using the transaction kit alot less springs and writing all over the instructions. The HD-2 isnt really all that hard just used it for the first time this week always stuck with superior but decided to try it. I gues to an experienced builder it is easy but to someone who doesnt really do this kind of work it can get kinda headachy. BTW the trans I built this week the car will be competing in pinks all out next week 2002 vette

 

Recommend you dump the factory seperator plate in favor of the Transgo piece as long as you're in there. My SK install experience:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/658369-installed-shift-kit-my-thoughts-long.html

 

Any ETA on that write up?

 

Wow, this subject could go in a lot of directions. I've been on both sides of this coin. I've been building tranny's for 32 years. I have built over 4500 700's and 4L60E's since 1982. First, I want to ask BAT TA what he does for a living. If you paid heavy dues to learn a craft or paid thousands of $$ to educate yourself to make a living for yourself and your family, would you just give away trade secrets because someone wants something? Most don't. I've helped many people with advice on this and many other sites because I like to help. But, to get beligerant and sour because we pros have a hard time giving up this advice or won't give it up is rediculous!! There is a reason Gil Youger prints those directions the way they are. It says in there to have a pro work on it. There are so many perameters just in the set up before you actually put this kit in it's not funny. What I mean is, clutch and band clearances for one. Put a kit in a used trans and find out why there are flares between gear changes, some gears shift firmer than others, delays upon engagement, etc... I'm not against the do-it-yourselfer. It's the American way. But we're not talking about your first motor rebuild. That is actually relatively simple. Back in the 70's when I first got into the business, I was told tranny repair is on Mars and the rest auto mechanics is on Earth. I thought "what a crock". I thought all auto repair is the same. After all of these years, those old timers were right. It's not for every trained mechanic, let alone any mechanic! It is the Top of the food chain of auto repair. So when guys get on here, they are trying to protect you as any caring person should. They know ahead of time how infinitely difficult this really is. I would not recommend this job to my worst enemy! Seeing where it use to be and where it is going. We don't get paid enough. This is the very reason why many pros have a hard time GIVING out valuable info. Let alone taking the blame for someone who did something wrong. You actually scare pros by asking how to take off the VB, so they are reluctant to help as most of the time mistakes would be made. Some guys can get lucky and get it installed. Wait until there is a problem from "building in" a mistake. Then let's see your diagnostic skills. Then, take it to a shop to figure out what you did wrong. Good luck!! Look in the mirror and be real! Stop being frugal and take it to a pro. This is what creates jobs and infrastructure. If I came to your work, would you tell me what I wanted, when I want it? Just an opinion-not an attack.
PS, trying to put a hook in our lip to write up in "detail" the correct installation won't get any responses either. This would litteraly take 5-8 hours of typing and then another couple to proof read to make sure of perfection. The public demands it!!