Thinking of making the Cannibal an A4 ;)
What type of tranny should I get for this sucker, I would never want to have to upgrade it again so lets say enough for 600 RWHP?
Should I keep the 4.10s, if not, which gears?
What size stall, 3500, 3800?
Any and all info appreciated.
Trending Topics
-Why dont you like the T56?
-Why does your sig say WS6 formula, I thought it was just a regular formula w/ a dif hood?
-Why does the sig list 427 CI, I thought it was 434?
Just curious. Thanks
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<strong> I have questions...
-Why dont you like the T56?
-Why does your sig say WS6 formula, I thought it was just a regular formula w/ a dif hood?
-Why does the sig list 427 CI, I thought it was 434?
Just curious. Thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I do like the T56 but it's grinding some in 4th and I'll have to pull the tranny to rebuild it. Always wanted an A4 so now would be an opportune time.
It is a regular Formula with a WS6 hood. I just like the ring to the name, "WS6 Formula". Besides, if you had no knowledge of the prior history of the car, could you tell? Doesn't matter anyway.
MTI isn't doing 434 CID motors anymore. They were an experimental motor. The sleeves are too thing to retain reliability. Seeing that this is my daily driver, reliability is a must, hence a 427 was the most obvious choice <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
"I would never want to have to upgrade it again "
That statement may as well be saying "I don't want a 4l60E" lol
Agree with 4mulaJoe, don't waste your money on an expensive 4l60 tranny that won't last. I don't care what anyone tells you, it won't with that motor.
If you really want an auto, talk with Tom or Mike Brown. They both just installed TH400 trannys that are near bullet-proof, and much less than a 4l60e build-up. No overdrive, but if you keep the rear gear reasonable, you can live without overdrive.
www.rosslertrans.com
I'd go 3800-4000 stall and no more, and keep the 4.10's... Car will be a mean muvva at any speed and the lower stall won't burn up the tranny with a lot of high speed driving.
<strong>is the TH400 streetable? I want it to drive/shift near what a stock 4l60E would. I drive on long highway trips sometimes and I don't want to get 5 mpg and be at 3500 rpm at 75 MPH cruising down the highway. Is this avoidable with the TH400 setup properly? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It would be fine around town with some higher gears. If you keep the 4.10s and go with a TH400, you'll hate it on the highway. You MIGHT could handle it with 3.23s on the highway. Even then I doubt you'll be happy judging by how little the car will be raced. Go with a built 2004R and keep the 4.10s. It won't be too much worse than a 4L60E and 3.73s.
Mike
I am going to be installing my TH400 with the GVOD next week (hopefully). I am just waiting on the Gear Vendor unit to arrive.
That way to can still cruise on the freeway and have the reliability of a TH400 or TH350.
Scott
You'd be the first with an LS1, from this site anyway. Perfectly drivable, one foot, manual shifts (or use T-Com to program it), strong as hell, etc.
<strong> Levi
Agree with 4mulaJoe, don't waste your money on an expensive 4l60 tranny that won't last. I don't care what anyone tells you, it won't with that motor.
If you really want an auto, talk with Tom or Mike Brown. They both just installed TH400 trannys that are near bullet-proof, and much less than a 4l60e build-up. No overdrive, but if you keep the rear gear reasonable, you can live without overdrive.
www.rosslertrans.com </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Reckless, do you really think the 4l60E is that bad? I mean the car will see maybe, maybe 20 passes/year with 15 of those being on ET streets. All the rest of the time is street and higway driving. I baby the car. I never beat on it until operating temperature is reached and even then I rarely hammer the car. The car has only seen redline once. I usually shift a good deal before even getting close to redline.
Those you that break your built 4l60Es, what are you pushing through the motor power wise, FI, nitrous, N/A? How often are you at the track? Do you use ET streets, BFGs, street tires? I'm trying to gauge ya'lls level of abuse in respect to what my uses of the car are. Everyone has a different version of "abuse" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
Scott, how much is a Gear Overdrive Unit?
Ryan, how much is a built 4l80E and other parts needed for the swap? Thanks
I had about 50-50 passes on mine. The first build had about 200-250 passes on it.
With 4.11's and 4L60E I would do 3000 rpms at 80mph locked. With T400 that would be about 4500 rpms to do 65mph. You can't drive T400 and 4.11's on the highway you will do 4500 most of the time and get no gas mileage.
Loose converters build heat just don't get huge with the converter size.
A totally built manual valvebody 4L80 is about 2800 bucks complete. But I'm sure there's cheaper ways to get there. their valvebody is muy expensive, but TransGo has a manual vb for like $200. I'd be willing to guess that outside of the core itself, the rebuild costs would be VERY similar to the 4L60. I had a thread in this forum a while back.
I'm thinking:
FLP IV 4L60E
Tranny Cooler
Tranny Temp Gauge
3.73
and a 3800 stall
What would you predict the life expectancy of this in terms of mileage based on my usage above? Thanks
<small>[ March 14, 2003, 03:16 PM: Message edited by: CANNIBAL ]</small>



