Not your typical 2wd 4L60E problem but instead a 4wd 4L60E out of a 1993 K1500. I'm to the point of placing the output shaft snap ring on and there's just not enough room to slide the ring into the recess in the shaft. All the components before that have been checked and rechecked, the only thing I've changed is the "beast" sunshell. That has been added and now I'm curious if that is the cause of my problems. It seems as if something is too thick, spacing the output shaft just a hair too far outside of the case.

Any ideas or is this a common problem? Perhaps I bought/was sent the wrong "beast" sunshell?

 

sounds like you may have a doubled up a washer or something.

 

Yes I have seen this done trying to use the stock thrust washer on the low roller race and the one that comes with the beast under the beast at the same time.

 

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of this would ya? I'm about 1/8" shy of getting the snap ring in place, I could probably pound the SOB in but I'd rather not.

 

Hmm no I will look in the morning ok

 

Sounds good! Thanks for looking. I need this transmission put back in by Saturday actually which is do-able if I can finish the rebuild by tomorrow night. Otherwise Friday I'll have to bring it into a shop to finish rebuilding and that will cost mucho denero that I don't have.

 

The beast washer has round tabs on it and they install in the backside of the shell.

The OE washer has 4 flat inside tabs that index on the low s&r race.

When you install the beast shell discard the OE washer. They are both plastic.

The OE metal washer or bearing installs on the reaction carrier (top) side of the shell.

 

As mentioned above you probably have a washer in the wrong location or have the factory low roller washer installed along with the one supplied with the beast. Here some info taken from https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=800809&page=2 Take a look at the thread for more building tips. Vince

The next photo is of the stock beast shell.

Here is a photo to show you what happens to the factory shell. The OEM shell on the left is obviously broken. You can also see that the beast shell is much thicker in this area.

Here is a photo to show you what the oem washer looks like. This washer would normally be installed on the low roller race and would only be used with an oem shell. When using the beast shell it would be discarded.

Here is the photo with it on the race.

Here is a picture of the washer that is supplied with the beast shell.

Here is a photo with it the washer installed. We only use this setup on our level 3 builds.

 

Hi all, this is obviously an old, old thread, but I'm hoping some of you are still receiving notifications on it and can weigh in with your expertise.

I'm having the same clearance issue as OP using the Beast sun shell in a 2001 4l60e. The OE thrust washer has been removed as per instructions, and I have installed only the supplied washer on the backside of the shell and the brass washer on the reaction carrier. However, no matter how many times I take it apart re-lube the parts and put it back together, I can't get that last 1/16" to be able to get the snap ring on the output shaft. I read through the build tips Vince @ FT linked to, and everything seems to be as he said. I don't want to put another OEM sun shell in if I can avoid it, but at this point, I'm a bit concerned that I may have no other option. Any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated.

 

First, nearly every builder here is now using the Sonnax Smart Shell instead of The Beast.
So, there is no need to install the OEM sun shell, although the ones made in past 5 (10?)
years are heat treated and rarely break. Still, the Sonnax is stronger and has other advantages.

Nonetheless, The Beast should fit fine. Just for testing, why not install the OEM sun shell to see if that aligns. Perhaps your rear planet carrier or reaction sun gear is not fully seated. Also what bearings are you using on the front planet carrier and reaction shaft?
Are you using a 4 pinion planet or a brand new 5 pinion planet?

 

I actually only found out about the Sonnax Smart Shell after purchasing the Beast kit. Unfortunately, money is too tight at the moment to change horses mid-race or I probably would based on all I have been reading.

I took your advice and reinstalled the OE shell with the appropriate thrust washer. Clearance was perfect. This is my first transmission repair, so there are definitely a few blind spots, but I think your response triggered my brain to make a connection, and I think I've got it straight now. Everything I have read suggested that GM didn't switch out the washer for the torrington bearing until 2002. This being a 2001, I didn't put 2 and 2 together. I had been sitting the planet carrier with the torrington bearing onto the brass washer .

Thank you so much for helping me get on the right track!

 

Glad you figured it out and that I was able to help by reminding you of the bearings.
The torrington bearing is a nice improvement over the washer "bearing".
Also, don't put 2 and 2 together - just use one bearing.

 

So I have a question on The Beast, and this is 2003 4L60E, with Torrington on the reaction carrier shaft back side, aka Reaction Carrier Thrust Bearing.

The plastic washer supplied with The Beast, I am not using, as I had no instruction sheet with this shell/washer combo, only the two items in plastic bag in the box.

The question is this "How did you know that the supplied plastic washer is supposed to replace the OE (674 or 8642331) Thrust Washer (Roller Clutch Race/Reaction Shell), aka Washer, reaction sun gr shell thr ?