4L80E converter fully seated at only 7/8" from bellhousing??
#1
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4L80E converter fully seated at only 7/8" from bellhousing??
After fighting with my converter for the past few days I'm pretty certain I came to the conclusion that it is fully seated in the tranny but the measurement from the bellhousing is only 7/8". I eyed up the flat spots on the tranny and converter, slid the converter in through all 3 clicks, spun the converter 1/4 turn and removed. The flat spots moved with the converter and it sounds like the pump is engaged. So if all this is true what do I do now? I heard the correct measurement is 1.030". I'll also add that I'm physically and mentally frustrated from all this tranny work the past couple days.
#3
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I had this post saved from when I did mine. 1.030 is what this says. .030 is 3/100th of an inch though. So 1" is basically what it should be. I'm curious if the TCI flexplate is thicker and causing some of your problems.
#6
FormerVendor
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I have seen where the lockup oring in the input shaft will cause an issue similar to what you have. You might have to lightly tap the converter in just a bit. I would try to remove the oring once and reinstall the converter. If your results are the same then the oring is not the issue. If does go in any further then you know what is holding you up. The advise above on the pump gear being in upside down is good advise. I have seen this happen in my years of this business and is a possibility. Good luck. Vince
#7
I had a similar issue with the Circle D I have....clicked in 3 times but didn't seem to seat in as far as it should have.
We beat our heads on the wall for about an hour trying to figure it out and then decided to give it a shot and bolt it up but taking particular care to ensure it didn't bind up as we got everything bolted in (i.e. ensure it spins freely as we slowly torqued everything down).
Bolted up fine took it out on the street and drove fine.
Drove it 300 miles home with zero issues.
Oh and I forgot that we had spare shafts that we put it on with no issues before making these decisions.
And this was with a 4L60
We beat our heads on the wall for about an hour trying to figure it out and then decided to give it a shot and bolt it up but taking particular care to ensure it didn't bind up as we got everything bolted in (i.e. ensure it spins freely as we slowly torqued everything down).
Bolted up fine took it out on the street and drove fine.
Drove it 300 miles home with zero issues.
Oh and I forgot that we had spare shafts that we put it on with no issues before making these decisions.
And this was with a 4L60
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#8
FormerVendor
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I had a similar issue with the Circle D I have....clicked in 3 times but didn't seem to seat in as far as it should have.
We beat our heads on the wall for about an hour trying to figure it out and then decided to give it a shot and bolt it up but taking particular care to ensure it didn't bind up as we got everything bolted in (i.e. ensure it spins freely as we slowly torqued everything down).
Bolted up fine took it out on the street and drove fine.
Drove it 300 miles home with zero issues.
Oh and I forgot that we had spare shafts that we put it on with no issues before making these decisions.
And this was with a 4L60
We beat our heads on the wall for about an hour trying to figure it out and then decided to give it a shot and bolt it up but taking particular care to ensure it didn't bind up as we got everything bolted in (i.e. ensure it spins freely as we slowly torqued everything down).
Bolted up fine took it out on the street and drove fine.
Drove it 300 miles home with zero issues.
Oh and I forgot that we had spare shafts that we put it on with no issues before making these decisions.
And this was with a 4L60
Which does bring us to a new question, what kind of converter are you trying to stab. If it is an aftermarket converter and not OEM, it might look different. You could try and stab the transmission to the motor. You should have about 1/8 clearance between the converter and flex-plate. You are basically sticking out 1/8 than normal. So if you stab it and it is rubbing the flex-plate, then something is wrong. DO NOT put any bolts in when you do this, if the converter is sticking out to far, you could crack the bell-housing or damage the pump.
Vince's idea about the O'ring is a possibility, and is very easy to check. Do that first.
Chris
#9
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This is a yank converter. When bolted down to the motor it is flush with the TCI flexplate. It was a concern and after a previous post I didn't think it was seated and pulled the tranny. How do I check the O ring or pump gear?
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I think Vince was correct. I got time tonite and I put a piece of wood against the converter and lightly tapped it. After a couple I felt it bottom out. Now I have the correct distance from the bellhousing. I plan to reinstall it tomorrow and see if it's a better fit.