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Cracked bellhousing!

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Old 05-17-2008, 07:40 PM
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Default Cracked bellhousing!

Hey Everyone.

Was finally getting some progress made tonight on my swap. Bolted the trans up to the engine finally, and as i went to lift the motor into the air, i heard a nasty crack noise, and theres a massive crack down the side of my bellhousing on my trans now

The trans is a '95 Impala 4L60e with the non-removable bellhousing. Ive already modified my flexplate to work with the convertor and everything.

What can i do about this? Is the trans garbage now? Will tig-welding it ruin it? If i could tig weld it, what would the massive amount of heat do to the internals?

Ive been excited to finish this up, figured id aquired all the parts i need, but i feel like im ready to throw up. Dont think i can afford to buy a new transmission.

Thanks everyone,

Sheldon
Old 05-17-2008, 07:52 PM
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Tig welding keeps the heat as close to the area being welded more than any other type of welding. I'd do it depending on where the crack is.
Old 05-17-2008, 07:57 PM
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here are some pictures:





Dad thinks i overtorqued it, then when i went to lift it, the cast gave out.
Old 05-17-2008, 08:10 PM
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Haha my dad swears i over torque EVERYTHING.. but yet he breaks more **** than me
Old 05-17-2008, 09:10 PM
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easy fix. i hit my tranny pan on a driveway edge backing up and mine broke completely thru right where yours is. I got it welded back and i am running that trans today Mine was in pieces
Old 05-18-2008, 10:51 AM
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I do not think that over torquing was the issue here. I would suspect that converter was not fully seated in the pump when you bolted it up. Better check your flex plate, converter and the pump.
Old 05-18-2008, 11:57 PM
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You can tig it but you may have some trouble with the oils that have been absorbed by the casting. Don't ask me how I know....
Old 05-19-2008, 12:08 AM
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I agree, that far away you could weld it just about anyway.

I don't think the way you lifted it caused that or being over torqued. It looks like the trans was pulled in with the bolt. It also looks like you need to get some flange head bolts to keep the holes from getting grinded out by the bolt head.
Old 05-19-2008, 08:08 AM
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Default Welding

I just modified a Truck pan to fit in a s-10.I tried to tig but had problems with oil in the cast alum.I found alumin stick at are local tractor supply it worked great!! My friend also welded a bell housing cracked just like yours it came out perfect.I have a few tips.When you have the piece fit grind the crack 1/8 deep on both sides.Then preheat the area with flame.Then when you weld don,t weave,run in straight stringers.After each stringer clean slag completely.On the start of you next stringer overlap the last stringer by half.When You feel you have enough metel in the area use a flapper disc on the grinder and grind the welds flat.If you find little pit of slag just remove slag and touch it up with the welder and flap it again.Buy the alum stick in small amounts it goes bad within days of opening package.about 10 sticks will weld that crack.Also there is directions on rod container.
I hope this helps
Old 05-20-2008, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
I do not think that over torquing was the issue here. I would suspect that converter was not fully seated in the pump when you bolted it up. Better check your flex plate, converter and the pump.
took a flashlight and looked inside the convertor & trans tonight, and nothing looked damaged. The flexplate looks straight, is there any thing specific i should be looking for?

Thanks so much for the help everyone.



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