BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

So I think I screwed up the pump on the 60E when swapping transmission's (since the one in car was slipping), by not seating the converter right is my guess. So what Im going to do is take out the pump out of the slipping trans and put it in the trans with the bad pump. I got to valve body out already, and about ready to pull the pump... But was trying to look throught some pics of people that do this, and in some I notice that they stand the transmission up, is this necsssary or can I pull it out with the trans on a bench desk?

Thanks in advance

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

It will be easier and with less chance of stuff coming out of place if you have the trans setting bell housing side facing up

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Alright get the pump out, anyway of telling if the pump is any good opening it up?

Thanks

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Yes if you take it apart if its broken it will be very obvious

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Make sure that you remove the lockup solenoid before removing the pump and also the oring on the input shaft. As advised above, it is easiest to keep the trans in an upright position to avoid pulling either the input drum or the reverse input drum out of place. Good luck with the swap. Vince

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Got it out already, pump bolts were on there pretty tight. Looking at all the stuff inside the transmission seemes intresting and almost tempts me to want to try and rebuild one myself... But I dunno. lol I'd need all the specailty tools for sure.
I'll probaly do the swap tommaorw.
Thanks PBT & FLT, when I'm ready for a built transmission Im not going to give it a second thought to were Im getting it from.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

no specialty tools, but you sure? lol, thats about half the parts that came out lol. It didnt look tempting to me when i started, and still doesnt.



and yeah its messy as hell. But i still know how it goes back together.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

So finally got around to trying to get the pump out of the other transmission, and it's a pain.
So on this one I didn't take off valve body, but I got those sensors out of the way. One of my freinds borrwed a t50p from a transmission shop, and he brought it over. We tried unbolting the bellhousing and couldnt get one to come loose, instead my freind ended up striping one with the right tool. lol
So I've been trying to get the pump to come out and no luck. Instead now it's got about an inch or so gap and wont come back down, but I cant get it to come up a bit. If that makes any sense. lol
Any suggestions, other than taking the BFH to transmission.lol This is driving me insane, been trying to get this out all morning.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Dang thing driving me nuts!!!

So me and another buddy just trired taking out the bellhousing bolts with the regular T50, and all but one came out. So now I have 2 broken bolts and a pump that refuses to come out.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

I tried getting ahold of a split bearing puller, (I seen this used to pull the pump on a write-up) but the local auto zone doens't carry them.
Then I stoped by the local trans shop to the owenr about my problem and he says that the bellhousing needs to come off, that it's not necssary to be off when pulling the pump but does need to be off whe putting the pump back in.??
So I have to bolts that are stripped and he says he'll pull them out for $60 bucks, and will put the other pump I have if I want too.
Any tips on how to get these stripped bolts out?

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Alright so after so much stressing I just decided to make something happen.lol Put the Dremel and drill to use, long story short I got the stripped bolts out. And thought the hard part was done. Wrong.

So I get the bellhousing off and the pump was already up alittle like stated before, it wouldn't drop back down when the bellhousing was on. So I get a grip on the pump and it easily comes off. So I'm ready to put in the new pump, I then set the gasket in place and try to line up that plastic piece, slide in the pump and goes down a bit, the furstest I could get it down is with halfways exposing (not tapping or anything) and it seems to just get stuck there. I've got both tranmission standing up next to each other, the one with the burnt clutches that I removed, and the good 02 with only 20k miles (that I'm thinking has a bad pump), so I try putting the good pump in the trans it came out off (the one with burnt clutches) and it goes down all the way seems like it just needs a push or tap for it seat completley, I then try the pump (the supposed bad pump) that came out the good trans, and put it on the bad trans and it goes down all the way too... So @ this point Im lost...
I don't know what to think or know what could be wrong with the transmission... Any pointers, ideas???
I wish I had about $2,500, I'd just toss both of these trannys in the trash and get a built 60 with a coonverter.lol
Someone please help me out, Im lost on this one.

Thanks in advance

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Ahh, come one someone must know what's going on???

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Alright so heres some pictures of what I got going on. Both transmission are standing up next to each other, the one with the valvebody missing is the one with the burnt clutches and the other is the good trans with the problem. The blue pump is from the burnt trans, and gery from the good one. So I tried them back and forth and either pump won't fully seat on the good trans, but work on the other.???

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

Sounds to me like you bent the shaft on the input drum with your failed converter install. Now the pump bushings are hanging up pretty hardcore on the bowed input drum shaft. That or you have got something else out of whack with the input drum.

You should be able to just pull the input drump right up out of the trans with the rev input drump sitting on top of it. Or you can pull the rev input drum off of it. Dont be a girl, seems that it is already fubared anyways and that is a very easy part to get in and out of the trans.

Take a peep at your pump bushings you've been fighting with and see if they're all scarred up or not. If they are you need to replace them.

The no buck solution is to pull the input drum from your 'burnt' trans, and swap in the clutches from your 'good' one and put the drum into your 'good' trans. You'll have to check endplay on the pump side and make sure thats still good though.

I think your chances of a long lasting positive outcome are fairly slim without doing a total rebuild. Transmissions are alot like engines once its hurt its probably not going to get better with you standing by it praying over it.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

lol @ the girl comment.
I just don't have any transmission experience, and sux that all this happened to an honest mistake. lol But hey that's life, right. Im up for the challenge as long as I can get some help if I get lost in the process, I don't have anything to do anyways.lol

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035781c.htm
^^^ This is the drum your talking about? It's what's exposed when the pump's out, how do I remove it, just pull out? It looks like it has a brace/clamp around it, I forgot the name of it, but does that get in the way of it coming out?

ws6t3rror

iTrader: (3)

Thats the 2-4 band wrapped around it. You can push the retension pin out of the way with a screw driver to get it out of the anchor (the right way is pull the valve body and remove the anchor pin). Then gently work that out. Actually that is not the piece i am talking about though that is the reverse input drum, what you want is underneat of that. After you have the band out you can just slide the rev input drum out/off of the input drum. The input drum is underneath of that, you know it when you see it, its what the big steel shaft is coming out of.

The first trans I ever rebuilt was a 4l60e, pretty much everything else is a joke by comparison.

While you're doing all of this you need to be very careful not to damage the sealing rings in the input shaft, or any of the little bushings you're dealing with.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I think maybe when you pulled the pump the input drum and reverse input drum might have been caught and came up a bit.
Try putting a straight edge across and measuring down to the drum to see if it's the same on both.
If one's up higher you need to engage the clutch plates.

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Measured today with a stright edge and same measurements on both.
Thanks

BLOWN SS/T

iTrader: (3)

Well I've put this aside for alittle bit, just saying I'm going to do it later. Then I was just about ready to say F this and by a built transmisson with a credit card and pay it off later. But after thinking it over, I can't afford it right now.

So tonight I finally got the courage to try pulling out the shaft, pulled the band out the way and out came the pump... Pulled out both pumps from both tranny's.
What I didn't relize is that when I pulled of the top part (which I think is the reverse drum) that I would see any clutches. Both parts have a set of clutches, are these the dang cluthes lol that I've been buring ever since I've been introuduced to the 4l60e?
If so then how would it work if my problem is the shaft, because the clutches on the on the other trans are burned I believe. I have no idea on how to switch out the clutches on this?
Im alittle lost. lol
Thanks in advance

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

If your clutches are burned you need to find out why before putting good ones back in.
Thats if I understand you correctly.
To change the clutches, there is a snap ring you remove, it's big in diameter and can be R&R'd with a small screw driver.
Jumping around a bit, I'd change the whole drum instead of putting good frictions in a drum that had burned frictions.

This is getting confusing and hard to answer.

Are the burned clutches in an aluminum drum attached to a shaft? If so thats a very common problem, those are the 3-4 clutches.

The reverse input drum is the steel drum the band rides on, and the drum that sits on the aluminum input drum. from my experience it's not common to find these burned.

Got any pics?