home made urethane motor mount $40
06-09-2009, 07:16 PM
#22
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I'LL TAKE SOME! whats your paypal address.
with the cam, the car is now shaking something fierce at idle. looking at the motor, the driver's side is moving a lot and the PS has the normal amount of shake to it.....
with the cam, the car is now shaking something fierce at idle. looking at the motor, the driver's side is moving a lot and the PS has the normal amount of shake to it.....
06-09-2009, 07:23 PM
#23
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i know the shifter is much different in an LT1 camaro, but that's exactly what my shifter did when the tranny mound ripped.
thats was a cinch. 11 bucks at napa for a new mount. remove the nut from the mount, jack the tranny up (after putting the car on jackstands) about 2", pull the mount, put the new one in and put the nut on it....DONE. 20 mins including getting the car in the air....
06-18-2009, 08:38 PM
#24
revisited again!
by now there are plenty of folks out making mounts. i made another one for myself.
this time i went with shore 94 a (stiffer than original 80) from the same devcon liquid rubber available at grainger.
the can they had was expired by a bit so they gave me 13 dollars off. THIS MOUNT COST ME $28!
since i had done it once i knew what to do and not to do, i used vaseline as a release agent and it worked perfectly, i upped the diameter of the exhaust pipe to 3" and this time cut the length to 3.5" even.
this i figure is good for some more stability and uses more of the urethane i bought anyways.
the vaseline had the mount slip right out of the pipe and has a nice sexy shiny look to it
i also revised my bolts, the go down about twice as far into the urethane, and the washer is completely welded, not just spotted to the bolt head.
i dont expect my original urethane one to have had any problems, but i needed one for the other side of the car, and im pretty sure this one is a bad **** in comparison.
i would totally sell these if they were not so frighteningly easy to make. if you MUST have a set ill do them at cost plus tip and shipping cuz honestly i think they are fun to do. I encourage you all to give it a shot! only thing you can do is make a motor mount and well possibly a bit of a mess if your not careful!
but i bet someone will pick up on this and put them to market
new one next to my original mount some may recall
all the pictures of my engineering done to the car is here
http://photos.streetfire.net/album/ctsv_1697381.htm
oh one last thing.. i was thinking of bringing materials to V-day and making a set on site.. that sound interesting? maybe ill bring some nivomat relocators and cradle crushers along for the ride as well
by now there are plenty of folks out making mounts. i made another one for myself.
this time i went with shore 94 a (stiffer than original 80) from the same devcon liquid rubber available at grainger.
the can they had was expired by a bit so they gave me 13 dollars off. THIS MOUNT COST ME $28!
since i had done it once i knew what to do and not to do, i used vaseline as a release agent and it worked perfectly, i upped the diameter of the exhaust pipe to 3" and this time cut the length to 3.5" even.
this i figure is good for some more stability and uses more of the urethane i bought anyways.
the vaseline had the mount slip right out of the pipe and has a nice sexy shiny look to it
i also revised my bolts, the go down about twice as far into the urethane, and the washer is completely welded, not just spotted to the bolt head.
i dont expect my original urethane one to have had any problems, but i needed one for the other side of the car, and im pretty sure this one is a bad **** in comparison.
i would totally sell these if they were not so frighteningly easy to make. if you MUST have a set ill do them at cost plus tip and shipping cuz honestly i think they are fun to do. I encourage you all to give it a shot! only thing you can do is make a motor mount and well possibly a bit of a mess if your not careful!
but i bet someone will pick up on this and put them to market
new one next to my original mount some may recall
all the pictures of my engineering done to the car is here
http://photos.streetfire.net/album/ctsv_1697381.htm
oh one last thing.. i was thinking of bringing materials to V-day and making a set on site.. that sound interesting? maybe ill bring some nivomat relocators and cradle crushers along for the ride as well
06-19-2009, 08:03 AM
#26
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How long does it take you to swap these out? Do you have to pull cats to pull mounts?
Does the urethane create alot of heat when it cures?
06-20-2009, 06:54 AM
#29
look at the first picture, there is no rod from one side to the other, its separate bolts, thats how you get ride of the vibrations.
i havent mounted the new one yet, on my car i can swap the drivers side in an hour give or take, i havent touched the passenger side yet, hence the second mount still on the table
the urethane does not warm up that i have seen during cure
i havent mounted the new one yet, on my car i can swap the drivers side in an hour give or take, i havent touched the passenger side yet, hence the second mount still on the table
the urethane does not warm up that i have seen during cure
06-20-2009, 06:29 PM
#30
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okay. HTF do i get it out? do you have to get the bottom bracket off before it will come out?
i cant even get the cat off for more room. my impact wont break the bolts loose that connect the cat to the manifold! ASLDFKJADSFKLH!!!! I HATE STUCK NUTS AND BOLTS!!!!!!!
im soaking em with kroil right now...
i cant even get the cat off for more room. my impact wont break the bolts loose that connect the cat to the manifold! ASLDFKJADSFKLH!!!! I HATE STUCK NUTS AND BOLTS!!!!!!!
im soaking em with kroil right now...
Last edited by SS#1230; 06-20-2009 at 07:09 PM.
06-20-2009, 08:20 PM
#31
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The mount and aluminum brackets come out as one piece.
Driver side has:
Top Mount - 4 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - 1 bolt from top(13-14mm i think) and 1 nut on bottom of the subframe. After removing the nut on the bottom of the sub frame I used a female torx to remove the stud that the nut came off of.
Passenger side has:
Top Mount - 3 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - Same as Driver Side
After you get everything loosened up use some wood and jack up under the oil pan a little. The starter can stay in place when removing the stock mount.
You might have already done all this but I figured I would list everything anyways.
Driver side has:
Top Mount - 4 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - 1 bolt from top(13-14mm i think) and 1 nut on bottom of the subframe. After removing the nut on the bottom of the sub frame I used a female torx to remove the stud that the nut came off of.
Passenger side has:
Top Mount - 3 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - Same as Driver Side
After you get everything loosened up use some wood and jack up under the oil pan a little. The starter can stay in place when removing the stock mount.
You might have already done all this but I figured I would list everything anyways.
06-20-2009, 09:06 PM
#33
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The mount and aluminum brackets come out as one piece.
Driver side has:
Top Mount - 4 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - 1 bolt from top(13-14mm i think) and 1 nut on bottom of the subframe. After removing the nut on the bottom of the sub frame I used a female torx to remove the stud that the nut came off of.
Passenger side has:
Top Mount - 3 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - Same as Driver Side
After you get everything loosened up use some wood and jack up under the oil pan a little. The starter can stay in place when removing the stock mount.
You might have already done all this but I figured I would list everything anyways.
Driver side has:
Top Mount - 4 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - 1 bolt from top(13-14mm i think) and 1 nut on bottom of the subframe. After removing the nut on the bottom of the sub frame I used a female torx to remove the stud that the nut came off of.
Passenger side has:
Top Mount - 3 bolts to block
Bottom Mount - Same as Driver Side
After you get everything loosened up use some wood and jack up under the oil pan a little. The starter can stay in place when removing the stock mount.
You might have already done all this but I figured I would list everything anyways.
KROIL ROCKS!!!!
ive got the seized nuts loose now. ill get the mount finished later. im done with it for today....
06-20-2009, 11:06 PM
#35
Cool, thanks for the answers. I actually did the UUC's, but wanted to try doing what you did. Hey, 40$ is nice.
The Engine mount install was a little hectic. It was no 1 hour for me (on either side) However it's the first one I've ever done.
Pinion Support, CAGs, and Left/Right Engine Mount was about 10 hours total. (with a two hour break of course)
The Engine mount install was a little hectic. It was no 1 hour for me (on either side) However it's the first one I've ever done.
Pinion Support, CAGs, and Left/Right Engine Mount was about 10 hours total. (with a two hour break of course)
06-20-2009, 11:18 PM
#36
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google search devcon. they make all kinds of steel putty, plastic putty etc. its hard to find around here.
i use devcon steel putty for bedding my rifle actions into the stocks.....
i use devcon steel putty for bedding my rifle actions into the stocks.....
06-24-2009, 01:25 AM
#37
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well i guess if i were to do it again, it would take about 1.5 hours if the cat nuts weren't froze up.
it took a lot more than i thought to get it out.
i had to pull the cat (DC'd the pass side too so that i could move the whole catback back), remove the coil pack so that i could get the exh manfold off (i actually pulled all the bolts except the front one and lifted it up and tied it to the strut tower brace so that is was up and out of the way, and i DC'd the steering shaft for more clearance. what i thought would be a simple project turned out out to be quite the PIA.
now im chillin...
oh, i took a vid of it idling while i had the cat off. it makes me wish i could do a set of kooks with the exhaust dumped after a set of magnaflow bullets. that would be the rowdiest caddy around theses parts (even though it already is).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbQSwDWT2CM
Jeremuy
it took a lot more than i thought to get it out.
i had to pull the cat (DC'd the pass side too so that i could move the whole catback back), remove the coil pack so that i could get the exh manfold off (i actually pulled all the bolts except the front one and lifted it up and tied it to the strut tower brace so that is was up and out of the way, and i DC'd the steering shaft for more clearance. what i thought would be a simple project turned out out to be quite the PIA.
now im chillin...
oh, i took a vid of it idling while i had the cat off. it makes me wish i could do a set of kooks with the exhaust dumped after a set of magnaflow bullets. that would be the rowdiest caddy around theses parts (even though it already is).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbQSwDWT2CM
Jeremuy
Last edited by SS#1230; 06-24-2009 at 01:51 AM.
