Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

What Subwoofer you guys running?

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Old 05-21-2010 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
Like I said, I ran the original sub woofer speaker wires to the amplifier input (speaker level/high input) and then ran the output of the amp to the new subwoofer.

No added distortion.

Also, if your trying to make a CTS-V an audio "shrine", forget it.

However the OEM sub doesn't even make a good doorstop.

Here is a good supply house for drivers:

http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm
Gotcha....I think (I am not the best at all of this electronic stuff....please excuse my ignorance).

So you didn't use any RCA's...you just tied into the stock system via speaker wire between the amps, right?

LAW
Old 05-21-2010 | 04:32 PM
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Yes. No RCA converters.

Just make sure the amplifier you use has an input (most do ) that can switch to "high level" meaning speaker level inputs.

I used a mono BAJA amp.

I am sure you can spend more money for one that doesn't......lol
Old 05-21-2010 | 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
Like I said, I ran the original sub woofer speaker wires to the amplifier input (speaker level/high input) and then ran the output of the amp to the new subwoofer.

No added distortion.

Also, if your trying to make a CTS-V an audio "shrine", forget it.

However the OEM sub doesn't even make a good doorstop.

Here is a good supply house for drivers:

http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm
It is possible, but not with the OEM distortion-filled head unit. Don't forget the circuitry that turns the bass down as teh volume goes up.

Originally Posted by TheLAW
Gotcha....I think (I am not the best at all of this electronic stuff....please excuse my ignorance).

So you didn't use any RCA's...you just tied into the stock system via speaker wire between the amps, right?

LAW
Some amps have a speaker-level input, and that's probably what he did. If you go that route, get the signal before the sub amp, not the wires to the sub. But it's like anyone said, if you want a stereo that even remotely sounds good, you're gonna have to lose the head unit.
Old 05-21-2010 | 06:02 PM
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There is no amplifier one can preempt in the CTS-V.

IT IS ALL ONE UNIT including crossovers.

If you replace the head unit, you lose driving functions.

Thank you DELCO/DELPHI/BOSE bunch of morons.

Collusion to cut out the secondary market, or they are just inept.
Attached Thumbnails What Subwoofer you guys running?-radio1.jpg  

Last edited by heavymetals; 05-21-2010 at 06:16 PM.
Old 05-21-2010 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
There is no amplifier one can preempt in the CTS-V.

IT IS ALL ONE UNIT including crossovers.

If you replace the head unit, you lose driving functions.

Thank you DELCO/DELPHI/BOSE bunch of morons.

Collusion to cut out the secondary market, or they are just inept.
yes, you do lose driving functions.....but not much, the only thing I really wish I didn't lose is the trip odometer, most of the other stuff is worthless, and inaccurate anyways.....
Old 05-21-2010 | 08:30 PM
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I am running a JL Audio 12W7 and a JL 1000/1. I honestly could not tell you how it was wired in because I had the shop do it but I put in a remote bass **** so as the volume goes up you can turn up the bass still.
Old 05-21-2010 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1V2Envy
I am running a JL Audio 12W7 and a JL 1000/1. I honestly could not tell you how it was wired in because I had the shop do it but I put in a remote bass **** so as the volume goes up you can turn up the bass still.
ya, thats what me and my shop were talking about doing, but decided against it.....do you get any distortion at all?
Old 05-21-2010 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
Here is what I use and how I wired it.

(sub is no longer available)


nice....whats the deal with 2 amps? you powering tweeters??? pics please ?
Old 05-21-2010 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 87vertgt
nice....whats the deal with 2 amps? you powering tweeters??? pics please ?

The other amp is a four channel to boost the door speakers (which I replaced).
Old 05-22-2010 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ITSAV
yes, you do lose driving functions.....but not much, the only thing I really wish I didn't lose is the trip odometer, most of the other stuff is worthless, and inaccurate anyways.....
I consider all the warnings to be functions I would rather not lose, and the comp driving mode (which I don't use but I still like being there).
Old 05-22-2010 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ITSAV
yes, you do lose driving functions.....but not much, the only thing I really wish I didn't lose is the trip odometer, most of the other stuff is worthless, and inaccurate anyways.....
Exactly! Who's care if you're traction control is engaged? As far as I can tell, comp mode still works without the OEM head unit.
Old 05-22-2010 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jonyb
Exactly! Who's care if you're traction control is engaged? As far as I can tell, comp mode still works without the OEM head unit.
well actually, you can still disable traction control without the headunit......the button on the steering wheel will do that.........and comp mode will still work as well, on your glove box, if you open it, and look in it, there is a little tc button, that will either turn off tc or activate comp mode
Old 05-22-2010 | 11:52 AM
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You need the class II stuff to be there.

You can turn off traction control, but you need it (the head unit) for comp mode.

In fact, you can't enter it if the radio isn't configured for a V (via tech II)

Also, there is feed back from the switches that needs to be seen.

And then there are the error codes and messages.
Old 05-22-2010 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
You need the class II stuff to be there.

You can turn off traction control, but you need it (the head unit) for comp mode.

In fact, you can't enter it if the radio isn't configured for a V (via tech II)

Also, there is feed back from the switches that needs to be seen.

And then there are the error codes and messages.

you can still turn on comp mode without the head unit, it just doesn't show there, the only thing missing is the actual stuff that pops up on that screen, the chimes all work, and the stuff on the cluster as well
Old 05-22-2010 | 02:33 PM
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http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/tsb/data/pic3174.pdf

Whatever your comfortable with, more power to ya.

I would rather be able to swap out the radio and not lose the stuff.

"The issue is that on most cars the nav units are plug and play.
On the V, the radio has to know what car it is in.

On the Tech 2 they have to go into body, radio, special functions and do the "radio setup" procedure (or the VIN learn, I forget which).
This forces the radio to check other modules on the data bus for the VIN. When the radio identifies it's new home as a V the steering controls change function and competitive mode is re-enabled.

Sorry you guys have to deal with this issue, it is an installation issue as the tech didn't finish the job properly or recheck his work.
Take it back and let them know."

Link:http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...ode-issue.html

Link:http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/tcbutton.html
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Last edited by heavymetals; 05-22-2010 at 02:45 PM.
Old 01-19-2012 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
Free air sub (Infinity 1040w)

The wiring is simplistic.

Took the subwoofer connections and ran them into the amp inputs (speaker level).

Took the amplifier output and connected to new sub.

Had to remove about 1/4" off the id of the hole to get it to fit.

Voila!

I am adding a 4ohm 8 inch sub in stock position. The amp wiring instructions are as clear as mud. The new mono amp only has rca inputs. The amp will accept the high level signal from the stock sub wiring through the rca inputs with an included adaptor.
My question is:
If you have 2 leads from the stock sub wiring + and -
What do you do with the 4 leads from the rca input adaptor for left and right?
I assume you wire the 2 positives left&right to the positive sub wire and the 2 negatives left&right to the negative wire.
I am only referring to the input. The output is obvious.
Thanks
Old 01-19-2012 | 08:19 PM
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You can also buy a "y" adapter that will do what you want.

If you have a mono amplifier it shouldn't have a left or right input.

If it does, it just mixes the inputs anyway so you only need one ch.
Old 01-19-2012 | 08:34 PM
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If you could check out the link, I would appreciate your advice.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictu...ture_id=380685
Old 01-19-2012 | 08:43 PM
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Checked it.

You can just use either of the inputs.

You won't gain anything by using both.
Old 01-19-2012 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks for the info.


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