need some schooling(brakes 101.)
#22
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On a serious note...
You should be able to leave the old pads in the calipers and use a pair of channel locks to push the caliper back. Probably want to take the brake fluid cap off, but not necessary.
The most important part will be to ensure when you put the NEW pads in, that the pads slide freely. If they bind in the calipers before you install them, they'll rub on the rotor and cause uneven braking feel and premature brake wear.
My 2c....
CR
You should be able to leave the old pads in the calipers and use a pair of channel locks to push the caliper back. Probably want to take the brake fluid cap off, but not necessary.
The most important part will be to ensure when you put the NEW pads in, that the pads slide freely. If they bind in the calipers before you install them, they'll rub on the rotor and cause uneven braking feel and premature brake wear.
My 2c....
CR
#23
#25
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Thanks for the info on the rotors. I assume the rotors, and certainly the caliper mounting bolts, need to be torqued to a certain spec. Anyone have that info? Man, I really need to get a service manual for this car...
#27
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I was driving on the service road of a tollway today when the 2 lane road merged into 1 lane.. 2 cars in front of me hit the brakes pretty hard which caused me to hit my brakes pretty fast.. the crazy thing is that as soon as I hit them I felt the brake peddle sink down and they locked up on me causing me to stop super fast! Thought I was going to get rearended.. Why the hell did they do that? I've crammed on my brakes harder then that before and didn't feel them lock up like that! I also need to mention that it was a lil wet outside
#28
TECH Senior Member
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Funny thing is i was racing a pullied 03 cobra on spray and all doing 100+ and had to hit the pedal half way down becuase of a car coming up and they locked up i almost hit my head on the wheel. Scared the **** out of me. It was about 250 miles after doing HPS pads and new rotors too. HAsnt happened since.