oil cooler?
09-13-2010, 09:45 PM
#21
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So here are the pics of Mike's setup. There were a couple of repetitive pics of the take-off plate and fittings, so I didn't upload all of those.
I thought the Setrab coolers only came in black, so I would've guessed that was a Mocal. But I see it has the end tanks kind of shrouded, as the Setrabs do, unlike the Mocals, so I guess I would've been wrong. :p
That's a pretty clean looking setup. We'll see how much luck I have routing hose from the Canton sandwich adapter; if it doesn't work, I'll almost certainly end up doing the same thing you did.
As for remote filter mounting, I had actually thought about going here:
Seems like a somewhat unusual spot, as one might worry about stuff coming back off the tire and getting the filter or lines. But I don't see any sign of anything getting into that cavity - it's pretty much spotlessly clean. You could mount the filter horizontally in that cavity with plenty of room.
From a different view...
That cavity is in the top left of the picture. You can see where it looks like there's space for the lines between the header and the frame rail. You could probably put the remote thermostat in that same cavity.
I thought the Setrab coolers only came in black, so I would've guessed that was a Mocal. But I see it has the end tanks kind of shrouded, as the Setrabs do, unlike the Mocals, so I guess I would've been wrong. :p
That's a pretty clean looking setup. We'll see how much luck I have routing hose from the Canton sandwich adapter; if it doesn't work, I'll almost certainly end up doing the same thing you did.
As for remote filter mounting, I had actually thought about going here:
Seems like a somewhat unusual spot, as one might worry about stuff coming back off the tire and getting the filter or lines. But I don't see any sign of anything getting into that cavity - it's pretty much spotlessly clean. You could mount the filter horizontally in that cavity with plenty of room.
From a different view...
That cavity is in the top left of the picture. You can see where it looks like there's space for the lines between the header and the frame rail. You could probably put the remote thermostat in that same cavity.
09-13-2010, 10:11 PM
#22
Thanks Pat for posting them up. Your remote spot looks safe. But you would have to run the lines back again from the remote to the front for the cooler. The remote and cooler are in opposite directions. No big deal if you can keep everything routed clean. I kept the remote, thermostat, and cooler as close to each other as I could because I wasn't sure how the routing would all play out. Either way I wouldn't be afraid to mount it where you are looking. Maybe fab up a splash plate. One thing about the spot up front is that I now run a big long filter ($16) as a bonus because I have the room. Wait until I get the other pics before you make up your mind. I'll get you the name of the fasteners we used. They're great. The cooler is rock solid.
09-14-2010, 02:15 PM
#23
Either Canton plate is good but the sandwich plate may force a smaller filter usage to keep ground clearance.
Anyway, If I were relocating the filter, I'd use the Canton plate, otherwise, I'd go with LPE or Katech adapters. Both the LPE and Katech block replaces the cover just above filter on the upper edge of the oli pan.
The Katech adapter is set up for AN -10 lines, but has no provision for a temp or pressure port. (this is what's going on the Camaro in conjunction with an 11" x 11" Long cooler)
The LPE adapter is also set up for AN -10 lines and has a pressure/temp port.
Another option is the PowrMax adapter, which is tapped 3/8 NPT and also has a port for pressure/temp.
Anyway, If I were relocating the filter, I'd use the Canton plate, otherwise, I'd go with LPE or Katech adapters. Both the LPE and Katech block replaces the cover just above filter on the upper edge of the oli pan.
The Katech adapter is set up for AN -10 lines, but has no provision for a temp or pressure port. (this is what's going on the Camaro in conjunction with an 11" x 11" Long cooler)
The LPE adapter is also set up for AN -10 lines and has a pressure/temp port.
Another option is the PowrMax adapter, which is tapped 3/8 NPT and also has a port for pressure/temp.
09-15-2010, 12:07 AM
#24
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I went with the Canton, thats why i posted it. It works. mounted it right where it should go. In the front of the rad behind the lower grill.. Its not rocket science.
09-15-2010, 08:12 AM
#27
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When you say "the Canton", which of the 3 oil coolers or 6 oil cooler installation kits that you linked to did you use? That was my point - the link you put up in your initial post didn't exactly tell a story. Did you buy one of their kits, or did you piece it together yourself? If you used one of their kits, is the hose they provide -8AN or -10AN?
Looks to me like Canton uses Long Tru-Cool oil coolers. Note that the same 8x11x1.5" cooler that Canton sells for $120 you can get elsewhere for $53.
Do you have headers on your car? How/where did you route the lines on your car?
What year is your car? My understanding is the '07 cars have a different thread for the oil filter (22mm vice the 13/16" of the '04-06 cars). I don't know if there are any larger alternatives for the 22mm '07 cars, but for the 13/16" cars you can use the filter spec'd for the Northstar, which is 1-1.5" longer than the LS6/LS2 filters. With the longer filter and the Canton sandwich adapter, the filter will extend below the pan. It's still above the header collectors, but I'm not sure if I'll stick with the bigger filter or just go back to the "stock" length filters.
Looks to me like Canton uses Long Tru-Cool oil coolers. Note that the same 8x11x1.5" cooler that Canton sells for $120 you can get elsewhere for $53.
What year is your car? My understanding is the '07 cars have a different thread for the oil filter (22mm vice the 13/16" of the '04-06 cars). I don't know if there are any larger alternatives for the 22mm '07 cars, but for the 13/16" cars you can use the filter spec'd for the Northstar, which is 1-1.5" longer than the LS6/LS2 filters. With the longer filter and the Canton sandwich adapter, the filter will extend below the pan. It's still above the header collectors, but I'm not sure if I'll stick with the bigger filter or just go back to the "stock" length filters.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 09-15-2010 at 08:20 AM.
09-15-2010, 06:18 PM
#28
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Yes my car has headers. 1 7/8. As for the routing, just keep it away form the header lol. Its really not that hard once your looking at it. My car is an 05 with LS2 setup. Stock LS2 Filter size. -10 line in and out. I have had no issues with oil temps, even in the 110 degree vegas weather. If its anything to you, I built it to beat on it, and beat on it I sure do. Again...NO OIL ISSUES with the smaller filter and canton plate.
09-15-2010, 07:58 PM
#29
Yes my car has headers. 1 7/8. As for the routing, just keep it away form the header lol. Its really not that hard once your looking at it. My car is an 05 with LS2 setup. Stock LS2 Filter size. -10 line in and out. I have had no issues with oil temps, even in the 110 degree vegas weather. If its anything to you, I built it to beat on it, and beat on it I sure do. Again...NO OIL ISSUES with the smaller filter and canton plate.
09-17-2010, 05:50 PM
#31
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Do you have any pictures of how you routed the lines, or at least a description of where they go? Without doing it by trial and error (which will be expensive with -AN fittings) I'm not sure how exactly to route the hose. I think if I use a 30 or 45 deg connection coming off the plate that will allow it to clear the header, the block/pan, and the engine mount, but I'm not sure.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 10-18-2010 at 09:17 AM. Reason: Punc-shu-a-shun
09-21-2010, 01:27 PM
#32
A shot of the remote filter mounting. It's right behind the front cover in the wheel well. Nice, cozy and clean. Also a shot of the Mocal unit with the forged Aeroquip fittings. Inline thermostat is not in the picture. Maybe Pat can fix up those pics to make them larger.
09-23-2010, 08:23 PM
#36
230 is not a bad temp for running on the street. Oil coolers come in handy on a road course when your running in the uppermost rpm ranges for extended periods. Temps can hit 270+ when you're wringing out the car to the redline over and over again.
09-23-2010, 10:19 PM
#38
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Sheeit, man, you're only an hour from Barber Motorsports Park, one of the nicer road courses in the country. Get yourself linked up with a club and get out to an HPDE!
As for temperature, mine indicates ~245F once it stabilizes on the highway, but I think it's full of ****. Even 230F seems high to me for street driving. I'd be surprised if the actual oil temperature is that high.
As for temperature, mine indicates ~245F once it stabilizes on the highway, but I think it's full of ****. Even 230F seems high to me for street driving. I'd be surprised if the actual oil temperature is that high.
09-24-2010, 08:49 AM
#39
Sheeit, man, you're only an hour from Barber Motorsports Park, one of the nicer road courses in the country. Get yourself linked up with a club and get out to an HPDE!
As for temperature, mine indicates ~245F once it stabilizes on the highway, but I think it's full of ****. Even 230F seems high to me for street driving. I'd be surprised if the actual oil temperature is that high.
As for temperature, mine indicates ~245F once it stabilizes on the highway, but I think it's full of ****. Even 230F seems high to me for street driving. I'd be surprised if the actual oil temperature is that high.