jweymar

iTrader: (3)

wow just wow

tweeter81

Yeah, this thread has gone bonkers (it wasn't just my fault though...) but I try to pass on knowledge that I have about 1st Gen CTS-Vs because I truly, truly love these cars. I've had mine for almost 6 years exactly, and in that time I have learned tons about them, been helped by a lot of good guys on forums, and done my fair share of helping myself. This was a case that I was just trying to be nice and give the OP some info/advice, which he solicited, and look what I get for trying to be nice. Like they say, "No good deed goes unpunished."

siggyfreud

iTrader: (1)

I'll be holding a seminar on internet manners next month. I expect to retire off all the people on this forum who need to sign up.

SilveradoSS500

Alright Alright Alright

smbstyle

iTrader: (1)

I'm running H&Rs on the stock FE4's along with Hotchkis sways. Honestly it's a great combo, I like it. A tad bit of understeer, i think from the large front swaybar, but still very controllable.

Even my DE instructor said that my car felt a bit more "planted" than his on the track, and he was running GC coilovers with the FG2 shocks. I think the reason being was the lower center of gravity because of how far the H&Rs drop the car.

Also, I dont care about the physics reasoning of why bodyroll isnt a bad thing; I feel MUCH more confident pushing the car with less body roll now than I did with it in stock form. Around hard corners in stock form I just felt like I didnt have complete control of the car. What do I know, I have no racing background, no engineering background, I'm just a guy who likes to run his car at the track.

After taking my car to Sebring; here is what I took away for things that I NEED the next time I go out:

-Rotors (stockers are shot) so I opted for 2 piece PFC rotors for better cooling, better weight, and longevity
-Pads (I need a little more bite, and the stockers dont hold up long) so I opted for PFC race pads for the track only
-Oil Cooler (Oil warning kept coming on, plus I'm planning on running the car down here in FL in the summer too) Putting together a kit using Mocal parts
-P/S Fluid (boiled the crappy stock fluid) going with Redline PS fluid
-Harness (I was sliding all around on the stock seats, they have zero lateral support) - I am buying the Schroth ASM 4-point harness made for stock seats and does not need a harness bar to attach to.

Other than that, I'm just going to change some fluids (diff, trans, P/S), throw new plugs and wires in, new fuel filter and it'll run like a champ.

UnsafeAtAnySpd

lol This thread has gotten ridiculous. I would say if you're just going to be doing the occasional day, have fun with some mods you can also enjoy on the street. For instance coilovers can help with handling and look good because of the drop. Also, I don't think that having a set of tires/pads to swap at the track is a bad thing even just starting out, especially if you have to drive aways to and from the track. Depending on the track surface and with how heavy these cars are, tires can take some damage. That said, crappy all-seasons and street pads lasted me quite awhile just starting out. Before I switched to a track only pad though, I did run through a set of pads in a couple of days. I don't think that was purely attributable to lack of skill either...

skills316

smbstyle...thanks for a reasonable response. did you have to use the MM kit or Z06 end links? That is exactly the kind of input I was looking for before all hell broke loose. That said there was some information hidden within the bitchiness...thanks?

smbstyle

iTrader: (1)

Yes I am running both. Got the end links from my local dealer and the MM kit directly from him.

skills316

Does anyone know the part number or year of the end links. thanks again.

tweeter81

C5 Z06 front endlinks. Your local dealership can order them for you. You only need the fronts, not the rears.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I apologize to all for comments made that sent this thread on a tangent. I've spent the last 3 days putting together another new race car and just haven't had the time to come in and apologize.

Know one thing, though. I too was once just breaking into the road course stuff. And I spent a boat-load of cash on parts that in the end did absolutely nothing for a set-up that yielded low lap-times along with the confort/confidence feel we all are looking for.

I have installed parts that made me feel more comfortable ... but the lap times were slower. Maybe that was why? It certainly felt different, but different doesn't equate to faster.

Unlike drag racing where there is a basic formula everyone can follow and get immediate results, handling is very unique and personal. What works for me might not (and probably won't) work for you. There is no cookie-cutter set-up.

That's why I try very hard and passionately to get a new guy to go to the track with abone stock car, learn it's tendencies, learn how to interpret them and THEN spend money to address the issues.

Look back over my posts ... I try hard to keep folks from spending money, not trying to get them to buy something. Why? Because no one knows what will work for an individual until some data is gathered.

Again, I apologize for the thread hi-jack and hope you have a lot of fun running your V how it was intended.

demang

iTrader: (3)

smbstyle what year is your car? I run a lot in the summer and never boiled the ps fluid in my car. I haven't even changed it from the factory fluid lol. Ive done sebring a few times. The oil sensor could be bad also. Or have a bad ground. I think that was common with the 04 year. Hope this helps.

jerrycecco

Track tires?
..I took delivery yesterday of 4 stock rims (no rubber)
now I'm looking for track tires for my V1 for weekend track events (not autocross)
I have hotchkis sway bars, and HP+ pads, FE4 shocks until the KW Var 3 (coming later this year)

I read someone bought Kumho Ecsta V700 tires for $100/ea -- wow nice price.
the Dunlop star Tech I have now were pretty good BUT life was too short, I want now a good street tire (longer life) and a good track tire (without breaking the bank)

jerrycecco@gmail.com

UnsafeAtAnySpd

^That was me with the Kumhos. The Dunlop high performance tires I had before those were even cheaper. Also picked up 12 takeoff 275/35/18 R6s for this year for $5xx. Just have to keep an eye out for closeouts and stuff at places like tirerack.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I think Nitto NT01s are about the best bang for the buck. If you get wider wheels (like the Team Dynamics) then the 275/35-18 Grand Am take-offs (which I assume is what Unsafe is referring to) seem like a great idea.

smbstyle

iTrader: (1)

looking back at it i think it may be the P/S fluid spilling over since I was told the cap has a built in breather.

Mine is a 2004, and I'm going to the dealer to have them reflash the car for the oil temp warning fix that is documented in the FAQ. Im still going to run the oil cooler though just to be safe.

smbstyle

iTrader: (1)

Ive been running the Nitto NT-05s as a street/track/auto-x tire and I absolutely love it. I got them for $620 or so including shipping from DiscountTireDirect.com, and they are quiet, great wet traction, and very grippy compared to regular street tires on track and even on an auto-x course. They are holding up great after 1 weekend at Sebring, 3 auto-x events and about 5k miles of street driving. Looks like they have another 7-10k left in them before I have to buy another set, and I will definitely be buying them again.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

Wait... can we go back??? So... Modding my car is a bad thing?

tweeter81

I have wanted to run those tires for awhile now, but they don't come in the sizes that I prefer to use: 255/35r19 and 295/30r19. I really wish they did though.

Blakt Out

Guys, as everyone in this thread (that is pretty dead by now) I'm going to give my opinion.

When I read the OPs post, I too thought about posting something like Mitch. I don't work on race cars for a living, but I've spent $300k on a track car, been to the track around 400 days, and am a test driver and author for a Porsche magazine.

But then I read Tweeter's posts, and I was like, "Oh yeah. You're right, dude." This was all good stuff. Both arguments were valid. Just depends on where you are in the whole "learning to really drive your car" spectrum. Even the nonsense pissing on each other wasn't nonsense. It was good, and helped me. I found this thread because I'm about to buy tires, coilovers, and possibly wheels for my V. I've never taken it to the track though. Every track day of mine has been in my Porsche... well, my EX Porsche. Times are tighter now and I can't have a designated toy, so the "Daddy-mobile" is going to get his ***** rocked off.

I imagine, by the death of this thread, that the OP has his answers. So I'm going to ask my own questions.

I'm unhappy with the structure of my 100k mi 2004 V. It feels sloppy. I for one (and it seems that others are in agreement here) think that looking at the power of our cars FIRST is asinine, idiotic and freshmanlike. It's got ***** already. That's for sure.

But, I blew up the diff. Long story short, I've got a spankin' new diff, DSS/Hendrix axles, and all the Delrin mounts and pinion braces that you can buy. It's still sloppy. This week, we're installing CS engine mounts and subframe bushings. We're also tuning it for a 160 degree thermostat. I'm having oil temp issues, so we're working on an answer for that, which will likely include an AccuSump. I very much remember the feeling of blowing up a $15k 911 engine that didn't have a dry sump. Never again.

I currently have the shitty Goodyears on stock 7 spoke wheels (which I think look good in matte black on a silver car like mine). But, being that my track car was accompanied by no less than 4 different sets of wheels and tires on track days, I understand the HUGE benefit of lightweight wheels. I may go with Team Dynamics. I definitely will take off my H&R springs with MM spacers (if anyone wants them) as I'm not happy. Too much unsettling at 9/10ths midturn if there's any road imperfection. I'll likely go with KW V3s unless someone can talk me into something else. I see no need to upgrade the brakes other than fluid and pads. I intend to get the Hotchkis sways too, and a BMW front strut brace. I hope this all tightens up the car. If not, I'll sell it and get an M5. I like this car more in every way, but the slop is unbearable. It's everything from the light steering to the idiot shifter, and all else that makes a drive memorable (other than the perfect, insane torque and sound!). I expect all this will make it amazing though, or I wouldn't be planning to do it.

Any help for MY situation, now that the OPs is apparently worked out?

Lastly, I LOVE Bridgestone RE11s, and I've tested a LOT of tires. I rarely pay for tires. But they don't have a ton of sizing options. They DO however offer them in the OEM size of 245/45-18. If I don't go with the Team Dynamics, I may get those. If I DO go with the Team Dynamics, what size should I get?