egypt123

iTrader: (1)

I have this loud droning noise coming from the drivers-side rear that I think is a bad wheel bearing. I've been doing some research and it seems to be a repair I can do myself. I've done the front rotors and pads on my car before, and since you need to take those off and the bearing is right there, I think I can do it. However, I can't find any good instructions that go into actually replacing the bearing.

It would be nice if I could find some instructions with pictures so at least I know what I'm looking at. But what I'm concerned about, is how difficult is it to pull the old bearing out? Do I need bearing pullers? Is there another way to get them out? I also don't have any info on bolt torque specs, etc.

Does anyone know of instructions out there? Or could someone post, email or PM me service manual pictures? Anything would help.

bbrown7888

If I were you I would just buy the ALLDATA for the whole car.

https://checkout.alldatadiy.com/adec...execution=e2s1

It's like $17 bucks and you get the service manual for a year, print out as much info as you want put it in a binder and you'll have it forever. That will help you with step by step directions, Torque specs and estimated time to do the job as well as what the P/N's you looking for are and if there's any special tools needed. I know when I did the rear wheel bearings on my S4 I needed a press to get them in and out, This isn't something you would want to do with a rubber mallet and brute force, if you damage the bearing installing it you will probably have the same noise and need to do the job over.

SVT F15O

The rear is a hub style bearing just like the front. No press is required.

andrewzpsu

You'll need a 34 mm deep socket for the axle nut. Thats about all the "specialty" tools I'd say. The 3 bolts holding the assembly in are on the backside... which can make it hard to get to with the axle boot in the way. May need to play with the suspension a little to find the clearance you need to get on the 18 mm bolts. During the install I also removed the e-brake bracket which were 15 mm bolts. Might need a deep 21 mm for the suspension too if you need to play with that - I did... but that was the passenger side... my drivers side seemed fine.

I actually got mine from autozone for like $178 bucks. Quieted my drone right up. Its a little different than stock, but nothing major.

Its a blast driving the car again now that I can think and drive at the same time.

egypt123

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone. I'll give this a try and maybe work up some instructions for the FAQ.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Did you guys have any play in the wheels for these bad bearings?

Also, how were you able to pinpoint which wheel? Was it that loud? I swear I think my rear right must be bad but there's no play in the wheel.

The #_%@@#1% dealer just blames my tires but they can't explain why ALL the tires aren't making the noise. There's nothing more frustrating than the warranty game when you know somethings wrong and they play dumb.

My warranty is almost up and I don't want to replace more than one of these if I don't have to.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

double post

Canadian CTS-V

Anyone have the torque specs for the front hubs? I assume there is a patern also. I had no luck searching for the info. Replacing mine this week...

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Got my front right bearing replaced. Its about 25-50% quieter now. I can really hear the right rear bearing now and that bitch Mrs Diffwhine .. Seeing as it exhibited no physical symptoms but was still howling like a wolf, the other 3 being replaced would probably quiet things down significantly.

I think bearings start to die from day one and for whatever reason, some last longer than others.

gearhead68

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you check the tires for cupping caused by a bad wheel alignment. Tires can get extremely noisy and mistaken for a bad wheel bearing.

Skidmarcx

^^ agreed

Dmax/04V

Swapping out my hubs because my bearings are screaming, threw the car in gear and was still able to turn the motor over through the axle nut. Is this because I'm just a beast or is something broken? Ended up having to put the opposing rear wheel in contact with the ground to break the nut free. On a side note this is more of a pita than pulling heads.

BWZ_2k2Z28

Probably not something you wanna hear but I've always been told its best to change things that affect steering/front suspension in 2's. When something on one side goes the other one is usually soon to follow.