wcryan

iTrader: (2)

I don't like the feedback on that cam. Can they be regrinded?. Whisler I've been watching ur videos on YouTube and I really want something like you have.

SoCA04V

I think it's important to mention that you should have your cam ground based on what you want out of the car, not necessarily for sound. For instance when I talked with Patrick G I asked him for something that would make good power through the RPM range, used for weekend driving and weekend road course events, and something that would pass the CA sniffer test. A big cam will make more power at high RPM, but how useable is that power for day to day driving? I was willing to sacrifice some overall HP for more useable power down low.

whisler151

No, once its ground that small it can not go bigger. You may want to sell it and start over.

I did a lot of research but what it came down to what talking to my shop. I told them exactly what I wanted in sound, power and drivability. While the exact specs are not published of SNLs cams I can tell you its close to 228/231 with lifts over .600 and a lsa of 111 plus some advancements. SNL designed their cams for GTOs which weigh about the same as our heavy Vs. After talking with Steve he picked the perfect cam for my needs. My needs were great sound, needs to be daily drivable, and needs to get me to 400rwhp. The SNL v.2 cam did the trick as I cam in right at 408rwhp. I would say that my cam is on the smaller side, but it works for me.

I like Texas Speed and would call them and talk with them about exactly what you want. They are PROS when it comes to LS motors and make some of the best cams. You can't go wrong with one of theirs. They also sell all the extra goodies you need to get when you upgrade the cam.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Do u think anyone would buy my spec'ed cam?

SoCA04V

You'll prob lose money on the deal, but I sold a stock used LS6 cam on eBay, so I'm sure there are buyers out there for a new cam.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

If I'm gonna lose 100$ or so that's fine. But I was expecting around 40rwhp outta my cam. But it looks like it isn't gonna reach that

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

Could someone describe to me the LSA and the effect is has on power?

Lift is obvious as well as duration.

My goals are similar to yours Whisler... Just a lot of numbers and trying to get the right setup the first time is... intimidating.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

for bikes, but the concept is the same
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/camlsatable.htm

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

lower the number the higher risk of detonation and also more top end HP over low end torque?

And 112s are suggested and soem go 111?

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

I like the sound of the 114. Could you get a really good cam with a good duration throughout say 2-6.5k RPM's with a lobe lift of 114?

-T-

iTrader: (2)

LSA tends to effect low end tq more than high end hp. LSA is Lobe separation angle. It's the amount of degrees from your intake centerline to your exhaust centerline. It helps in determining your dynamic compression. Most people will try to stay around 8.5 dc Naturally aspirated. I haven't researched the effects of dc for FI and nitrous applications since I have neither. Your smaller (tighter) LSA will also determine the amount of audible lope in your exhaust note. The larger lsa will begin to sound stockman the higher you go. I believe the LS6 cam stock is 116.5 or 117.

If your worried about it dying at idle, know that most people lower their idle to exaggerate the idle with 112 and higher to sound like it's a bigger cam. I have a 113 and at stock rpm's, I have no trouble with idle even when turning on ac. It's all in the tune you get. Hope this helps for a little better understanding.

-T-

iTrader: (2)

114 is the lsa. Lobe lift is measured in 0.***". The higher the lift, generally attributes to more top end and the ability to stay with a lower duration for dynamic compression.

When spec'ing a cam, it is a lot of give and take with intake and exhaust lobes. The earlier you close the intake, the more force your piston needs to compress and the higher your dynamic compression. The earlier you open your exhaust, the less force your piston needs to push the air out, but also reduces scavenging since the prolonged pressure release. Scavenging works best on later exhaust openings for the low pressure in the exhaust and the high in your cylinder will almost suck the gases out.

I spent about 6 months researching heads and cams before I went with the torquer 2. I kinda spec'd my own cam and came within similar specs using a volumetric efficiency calculator and some excel spreadsheets and graphs of data.

Like most are saying, bigger is not always better. It depends on the application. Talking with several mod shops and tuners will give you the best chance to make a selection that suits your needs. Don't just jump on he first cam so and so suggests. Remember that they are not you and its not their car.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

True.... but will the cam that I stated earlier put out good power? People were saying it was too small

aurora40

iTrader: (1)

I thought that was the basic principle behind a regrind? The "opening" part of the cam is only relative to the closed part (the base circle). So a regrind grinds down the whole thing, which is how a mild profile can be made more radical. You'd probably need longer pushrods or something to go with it.

I thought that tended to be more common on multi-cam cars where blanks would cost more. Doesn't seem like it'd be worth it in this case, a new cam isn't that much more, plus the old one can be sold.

whisler151

First off, I am not even close to being an expert on engines or cams. Most of what I am saying I am regurgitating from my shop (SNL).

There were recently 2 guys on here (maybe it was the other forum) that went with 222/224 cams and both saw minimal gains (15-20) and I believe both ended up getting bigger cams so they could get to the 400 mark.

Before you make any decisions call a shop that specializes in LS motors. Tell them your goals and tell them the specs of the cam you have now. They will guide you better than us forum mechanics.

-T-

iTrader: (2)

You could keep the cam and upgrade to 1.8 rockers and that would put you at a 222/224 @ .599/.601 'ish lift.

My cam is a 232/234 0.595/0.598 and have no PTV issues. As well as others in the high 220's @ .610's with not PTV issues. So clearance shouldn't be an issue.

The higher and quicker lift will give you more top end and more mid range tq. which would probably make you quite happy with a 100 shot a little later. The extra lift on the cam is going to make a big difference but will be much harsher on your springs... so you will need to fork up some $$$ on some .650 duals minimum to up your seat pressure.

This is just an avenue for you to take. So don't rule out what you already have because there are a thousand ways to make more power with cam and valvetrain options.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

Everything else has already been purchased, so I think I'm gonna have to get a new grind