9" Shakedown on Street Tires
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9" Shakedown on Street Tires
I typed this and it timed out... so short story now...
12.63 with a 1.977 60' on Bridgestone 275/40's
Wheelhop showed up at the end of my tire de-wettings and on WOT 1-2 shifts. 1-2 shift wheelhop caused considerable ET loss and forced me to repeatedly feather the throttle on the shift.
I also was unable to leave at anything above idle as trying even 1000 RPM force me to either abuse the clutch more than I wanted or let off the throttle in order to maintain velocity.
All runs were done before 9:00PM so... I missed out on making any cool air runs.
When I return it will be on DRs or Slicks...
12.63 with a 1.977 60' on Bridgestone 275/40's
Wheelhop showed up at the end of my tire de-wettings and on WOT 1-2 shifts. 1-2 shift wheelhop caused considerable ET loss and forced me to repeatedly feather the throttle on the shift.
I also was unable to leave at anything above idle as trying even 1000 RPM force me to either abuse the clutch more than I wanted or let off the throttle in order to maintain velocity.
All runs were done before 9:00PM so... I missed out on making any cool air runs.
When I return it will be on DRs or Slicks...
#4
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$5500 minus the cost of what i would have paid for a new diff
$3900 minus the cost of axle upgrade
$2800 minus the cost of a replacement drive shaft when the middle section goes soft and the bushing up front gets brittle
$2050
So I paid a $2000 premium to never have to drop the cradle again.
I did the labor myself so... minus $1800 quoted for labor.
I already sold my econo axle and still have my driver axle, 33K drive shaft with bushing that will go at some point too.
In reality... yeah the upfront cost is brutal... but when you get to the tail end and realize it's all become bulletproof and has somewhat of a warranty on it... it becomes much easier to justify.
I no longer fear keeping this car to 50K miles... or 120K for that matter.
$3900 minus the cost of axle upgrade
$2800 minus the cost of a replacement drive shaft when the middle section goes soft and the bushing up front gets brittle
$2050
So I paid a $2000 premium to never have to drop the cradle again.
I did the labor myself so... minus $1800 quoted for labor.
I already sold my econo axle and still have my driver axle, 33K drive shaft with bushing that will go at some point too.
In reality... yeah the upfront cost is brutal... but when you get to the tail end and realize it's all become bulletproof and has somewhat of a warranty on it... it becomes much easier to justify.
I no longer fear keeping this car to 50K miles... or 120K for that matter.
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And I'm on the fence about how much this actually sucks... 12.6 on street tires... I out ET'd a cammed C5 twice, a stage 1 roush, and elder Mustang.
And nothing broke nor did i fear it breaking...
I don't think i need to practice so much as I need to have some meat that will bite a little more.
And nothing broke nor did i fear it breaking...
I don't think i need to practice so much as I need to have some meat that will bite a little more.
#6
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Well, the 9" in itself will not cure wheelhop, but is good insurance to prevent breakage, so it's a good start. Of course it's expensive, but it's also custom and not a whole lot made.
Heck, even a 9" for a chevelle is $$$, even though it's much more 'common' (units produced). However, we (chevelle owners) have the option of an oem 12-bolt, which IMO is almost as stout, but the advantage of the 9" is 3rd member design, so changing gear ratios is easier and there are more ratios to choose from. and IIRC, does not use c-clips, so a little more insurance (they sell elminator kits, although them breaking (axles allowed to pull out of housing then) is not a super common event)
I wonder why nobody makes an 8.8 or a dana 44 or a gm-12 bolt (custom) for these cars, as far as budget goes? They are all pretty stout (8.8 prob being the weakest) and such...Maybe people have and it's not a viable cost savings, so just curious....But, the 9" Ford is a nice rear and be nice to have if I were able to blow the money and build an ultimate beast!
Heck, even a 9" for a chevelle is $$$, even though it's much more 'common' (units produced). However, we (chevelle owners) have the option of an oem 12-bolt, which IMO is almost as stout, but the advantage of the 9" is 3rd member design, so changing gear ratios is easier and there are more ratios to choose from. and IIRC, does not use c-clips, so a little more insurance (they sell elminator kits, although them breaking (axles allowed to pull out of housing then) is not a super common event)
I wonder why nobody makes an 8.8 or a dana 44 or a gm-12 bolt (custom) for these cars, as far as budget goes? They are all pretty stout (8.8 prob being the weakest) and such...Maybe people have and it's not a viable cost savings, so just curious....But, the 9" Ford is a nice rear and be nice to have if I were able to blow the money and build an ultimate beast!
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#8
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I beat on it pretty hard and I feel like i can beat on it harder without having to call a wrecker... (that's what she said)
Maybe I misunderstood what the kit was being made for... I guess I should have been expecting a miracle full second drop in ET's... Sarcasm aside now.
3.90's cruise at 2250 rpm at 80 and 2500 at 85. I have a car with an 8.8/4.10s/295-35-18's... when you put the clutch in it refuses to coast. The strange diff feels similar to the stock diff - I can leave a light get up to 45 push in the clutch and coast for blocks on end still.
I beat on it - it says that was fun and invites me out for a beer and makes plans to do it again. That's a contrast to the stock diff - I beat on it, it makes all kinda noise, whines about wanting to go home, and then poops itself when we're out in a crowd.
More power to you guys who want to put the latest gm diff in and keep your fingers crossed everytime you want to have a little fun... I love a good gamble too... but I like gambling a lot more when the odds are clearly in my favor. I have zero doubts thus far as to the integrity of my powertrain and feel like the premium paid is just.
NOW...
Anyone have any specific requests or questions about anything from install to driveability? I have a camera and I'm a tripod... so... i can take vids to demo it as needed.
Can you justify it to run as many 12 second passes as you want though? ;-)
#11
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HAs anyone tried air bags like the GTO's use to get rid of wheelhop. I hear it helps them dramatically and its cheap enough to try.
5500 built rear to run consistent 12s with 500hp is not even close to justifying the money spent IMO. But we all have different opinions so as long as your happy thats great man. Now throw some slicks or M/T drag radials on the car and dump it at 5k.
5500 built rear to run consistent 12s with 500hp is not even close to justifying the money spent IMO. But we all have different opinions so as long as your happy thats great man. Now throw some slicks or M/T drag radials on the car and dump it at 5k.
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And I'm on the fence about how much this actually sucks... 12.6 on street tires... I out ET'd a cammed C5 twice, a stage 1 roush, and elder Mustang.
And nothing broke nor did i fear it breaking...
I don't think i need to practice so much as I need to have some meat that will bite a little more.
And nothing broke nor did i fear it breaking...
I don't think i need to practice so much as I need to have some meat that will bite a little more.
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Having confidence in your car is priceless. I would love to know that I could beat the hell out of the rear and not worry about anything.
Looking forward to seeing more 1/4 mile runs.
Looking forward to seeing more 1/4 mile runs.
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HAs anyone tried air bags like the GTO's use to get rid of wheelhop. I hear it helps them dramatically and its cheap enough to try.
5500 built rear to run consistent 12s with 500hp is not even close to justifying the money spent IMO. But we all have different opinions so as long as your happy thats great man. Now throw some slicks or M/T drag radials on the car and dump it at 5k.
5500 built rear to run consistent 12s with 500hp is not even close to justifying the money spent IMO. But we all have different opinions so as long as your happy thats great man. Now throw some slicks or M/T drag radials on the car and dump it at 5k.
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#18
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Airbag in the passenger side helps preload the suspension and works great in solid axle "4-link" style rears (like the A & G-body, etc.) and would imagine it would help in an IRS too, but only the passenger side is needed (so split them with somebody buying a pair)and experiment with the air pressure to see what works best.
Sometimes I wish these had solid rear axles with a nice suspension setup, but the IRS is so good for the handling on this car and I don't drag race it, so not sure I'll ever 'experiment' a whole lot with bags and such.
Sometimes I wish these had solid rear axles with a nice suspension setup, but the IRS is so good for the handling on this car and I don't drag race it, so not sure I'll ever 'experiment' a whole lot with bags and such.