my modded V2
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my modded V2
Finally starting to be happy with this thing! I really wanna jet the nitrous up, add a converter, heat exchanger, port the blower and do some other small things. I think 750rw is very attainable with a stock motor in cool weather
-Dallas Performance Stage 1 blower cam
-hand ported blower snout
-10" lower pulley
-American Racing 1 7/8 headers, 3" off road Xpipe that goes to the diff where it connects to stock mufflers
-ID850 injectors
-Nitrous Outlet dry nitrous kit
-Nitrous Outlet progressive controller
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epThjgaJ21Q
Car put down 690/682 at the back tires in a 108 degree dyno room
-Dallas Performance Stage 1 blower cam
-hand ported blower snout
-10" lower pulley
-American Racing 1 7/8 headers, 3" off road Xpipe that goes to the diff where it connects to stock mufflers
-ID850 injectors
-Nitrous Outlet dry nitrous kit
-Nitrous Outlet progressive controller
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epThjgaJ21Q
Car put down 690/682 at the back tires in a 108 degree dyno room
#6
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Sounds good...a little too loud for my tastes (on a car like these), but do like the sound. Maybe with some cats, it would muffle it just enough, but you guys don't need to worry about that...yet, so that's cool.
When you/they say "hand ported snout", what exactly is done to it, do you know (increase area, match ports, remove castings, etc)? I'm curious as just in case I ever got one, like to know what I'd need to do (I do that sort of stuff myself and cringe at how much 'shops' charge )...Fun stuff working on things like that, but you do have to be careful sometimes and not go overboard.
Looks like it puts down pretty good power too...how spoiled we are living in the age of electronic controls and fuel injection and such...That's a stout big block's numbers and doing it with a relatively small engine (albeit larger displacement with compressed air) and still having good tractability, I imagine. Cool. GM did an excellent job on the LS-series!
edit - I noticed you mentioned N20...is the hp #'s with that "running" too? Still, I bet it's "only" adding maybe 150 hp or so? Nice power "off the bottle" even so then.
When you/they say "hand ported snout", what exactly is done to it, do you know (increase area, match ports, remove castings, etc)? I'm curious as just in case I ever got one, like to know what I'd need to do (I do that sort of stuff myself and cringe at how much 'shops' charge )...Fun stuff working on things like that, but you do have to be careful sometimes and not go overboard.
Looks like it puts down pretty good power too...how spoiled we are living in the age of electronic controls and fuel injection and such...That's a stout big block's numbers and doing it with a relatively small engine (albeit larger displacement with compressed air) and still having good tractability, I imagine. Cool. GM did an excellent job on the LS-series!
edit - I noticed you mentioned N20...is the hp #'s with that "running" too? Still, I bet it's "only" adding maybe 150 hp or so? Nice power "off the bottle" even so then.
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Sounds good...a little too loud for my tastes (on a car like these), but do like the sound. Maybe with some cats, it would muffle it just enough, but you guys don't need to worry about that...yet, so that's cool.
When you/they say "hand ported snout", what exactly is done to it, do you know (increase area, match ports, remove castings, etc)? I'm curious as just in case I ever got one, like to know what I'd need to do (I do that sort of stuff myself and cringe at how much 'shops' charge )...Fun stuff working on things like that, but you do have to be careful sometimes and not go overboard.
Looks like it puts down pretty good power too...how spoiled we are living in the age of electronic controls and fuel injection and such...That's a stout big block's numbers and doing it with a relatively small engine (albeit larger displacement with compressed air) and still having good tractability, I imagine. Cool. GM did an excellent job on the LS-series!
edit - I noticed you mentioned N20...is the hp #'s with that "running" too? Still, I bet it's "only" adding maybe 150 hp or so? Nice power "off the bottle" even so then.
When you/they say "hand ported snout", what exactly is done to it, do you know (increase area, match ports, remove castings, etc)? I'm curious as just in case I ever got one, like to know what I'd need to do (I do that sort of stuff myself and cringe at how much 'shops' charge )...Fun stuff working on things like that, but you do have to be careful sometimes and not go overboard.
Looks like it puts down pretty good power too...how spoiled we are living in the age of electronic controls and fuel injection and such...That's a stout big block's numbers and doing it with a relatively small engine (albeit larger displacement with compressed air) and still having good tractability, I imagine. Cool. GM did an excellent job on the LS-series!
edit - I noticed you mentioned N20...is the hp #'s with that "running" too? Still, I bet it's "only" adding maybe 150 hp or so? Nice power "off the bottle" even so then.
As of now it makes 631rw on a boost only/pump gas tune
then on nitrous it makes 598rw on boost and 690 on nitrous on pump gas as well
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I thought the snout was just the housing for the mechanical bits to hold the pulley shaft and connect it to the rotor drive? I didn't think any air flowed through it. My understanding from the Gen III/IV world was that mainly they get the exterior ground down a bit so that a smaller pulley will fit. Usually people use the phrase "turned down" vs "ported" when talking about that.
But I could easily be mistaken.
But I could easily be mistaken.
#9
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^^^I was sort of thinking the same thing and trying to figure out how a snout could be used to pass air, but had assumed they were talking about the compressor unit itself, or the intake manifold below (the connection)...Could be wrong though, just guessing on what they were talking about...If there is a smaller pulley, does it use a larger diameter shaft or something? Curious why they would need to modify for that. Or, maybe it's smaller diameter and they need to put a different bushing/bearing or whatever it is they use at the penetration...? Don't know, wondering myself...
Yeah, I wouldn't imagine the shops disclose their details too much on stuff like porting, but just wondering what was actually done (heard that a few times now on the LSA's). It may be as simple as just cleaning up the burrs/casting and maybe opening up a little, but could be more involved with actual airflow characteristics considered (like when you port heads)...Sounds like it makes for a nice improvement though and well worth the effort.
Good power even without N20...just be careful using the nitrous on a supercharged engine though, as far as making sure your A/F is spot on It's going lean is where you want to be concerned more so...that, and if it's hot out or end up getting a lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber (likes to stay burned and can cause or contribute to detonation since it does get hot enough to ignite the mixture when it's not supposed to, believe it or not; that's more of a concern with higher milage, but still)...
Would suck to blow the engine, although I'm sure the bottom end is reasonably stout on the LSA's (least haven't heard anything bad). You're doing a compound increase in displacement (and oxygen) and imagine the cylinders really get 'stuffed' hard...Just need to be double/triple sure of the details to be on the safe side...But, heck sure does put out some good power and bet it's a lot of fun!
Yeah, I wouldn't imagine the shops disclose their details too much on stuff like porting, but just wondering what was actually done (heard that a few times now on the LSA's). It may be as simple as just cleaning up the burrs/casting and maybe opening up a little, but could be more involved with actual airflow characteristics considered (like when you port heads)...Sounds like it makes for a nice improvement though and well worth the effort.
Good power even without N20...just be careful using the nitrous on a supercharged engine though, as far as making sure your A/F is spot on It's going lean is where you want to be concerned more so...that, and if it's hot out or end up getting a lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber (likes to stay burned and can cause or contribute to detonation since it does get hot enough to ignite the mixture when it's not supposed to, believe it or not; that's more of a concern with higher milage, but still)...
Would suck to blow the engine, although I'm sure the bottom end is reasonably stout on the LSA's (least haven't heard anything bad). You're doing a compound increase in displacement (and oxygen) and imagine the cylinders really get 'stuffed' hard...Just need to be double/triple sure of the details to be on the safe side...But, heck sure does put out some good power and bet it's a lot of fun!
Last edited by JNR_Design; 07-16-2011 at 07:56 PM.
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Ah, makes more sense now (I need to get more familiar with those engines and the parts/pieces)...I guess that term is misleading then; perhaps they should call that a throttle body intake housing or something (not sure the technical name; edit was going to call it a plenum but there's no pressure there at that location?). No biggie, but to somebody who hasn't seen them yet to avoid confusion...
and I could definitely see how modifying that can and does make a difference...Cool, thanks for the info.
and I could definitely see how modifying that can and does make a difference...Cool, thanks for the info.
Last edited by JNR_Design; 07-16-2011 at 10:06 PM.
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This is what I was thinking of, from more "conventional" layout Eaton blowers (the part on the right):
What you are showing makes sense. I suppose the LSA and LS9 blowers have the pulley and the intake together, which could reasonably be called the snout. I think they have an internal shaft similar to the external jackshaft used on aftermarket LSx Eaton blowers. So what would be the "snout" on the opposite side, is really all internal.
What you are showing makes sense. I suppose the LSA and LS9 blowers have the pulley and the intake together, which could reasonably be called the snout. I think they have an internal shaft similar to the external jackshaft used on aftermarket LSx Eaton blowers. So what would be the "snout" on the opposite side, is really all internal.
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Ah, makes more sense now (I need to get more familiar with those engines and the parts/pieces)...I guess that term is misleading then; perhaps they should call that a throttle body intake housing or something (not sure the technical name; edit was going to call it a plenum but there's no pressure there at that location?). No biggie, but to somebody who hasn't seen them yet to avoid confusion...
and I could definitely see how modifying that can and does make a difference...Cool, thanks for the info.
and I could definitely see how modifying that can and does make a difference...Cool, thanks for the info.
VERY impressive numbers! Nitrous can make BIG power on forced induction vehicles.
My old Lightning went from low 6XXRWHP to 750RWHP on a "75" shot.
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IMHO, a V2 shouldn't be too loud. It's the refined, more well-bred child. Yet, the V1 fits the hotrod role much better and can get away with being loud, boisterous, and unruly.
Love my V1 ... and its sound.
Last edited by rand49er; 07-18-2011 at 08:51 PM. Reason: sp
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Very nice Will. Ill get a chance to check her out one of these days! I've also been wanting to see the 8 second "booger" for a while! Haha... By the way have you had a chance to get the V to the track with your current setup? I'm sure you would be in the 6's easy at the 1/8 mile!
Last edited by adanieljohnson1; 07-18-2011 at 08:22 AM.
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Very nice Will. Ill get a chance to check her out one of these days! I've also been wanting to see the 8 second "booger" for a while! Haha... By the way have you had a chance to get the V to the track with your current setup? I'm sure you would be in the 6's easy at the 1/8 mile!