Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Line Installation
#22
#23
Furbe,
Anything specific on the undercarriage that drew your attention? It's just road grime on there.
As for the rotors, powdercoated the wheels at the same time, so it sat for a week in the driveway with the wheels off. That's normal rust.
#24
#25
Well, just ran into a wall with the rear passenger line.
Wrong fitting.
Brake fluid all over (me included).
RATS.
Goodridge is local to me, so I am in contact with them at the moment to get a replacement line.
MOD HELL
Wrong fitting.
Brake fluid all over (me included).
RATS.
Goodridge is local to me, so I am in contact with them at the moment to get a replacement line.
MOD HELL
#26
Goodridge had problems with this kit. Wrong parts were included in many (including mine) they made it right
#28
Park your car for a week, and take a look at your rotors. It'll look pretty close to it (I had mine on jack stands for a week with the rotors exposed to the elements - waiting for the wheels to get powdercoated).
It's not as bad as you think - the only real bad part is having to do each corner twice due to it being a fixed caliper.
#29
"Goodridge had problems with this kit. Wrong parts were included in many (including mine) they made it right".
I was on the phone with them yesterday.
Right off the bat the guy says," We don't warranty anything bought on the internet".
Me," I bought them off Amazon"
Him, "What was the dealers name?"
I gave him the name then a 180 in attitude.
He says that I need to bring him the correct end so he can have a line made up.
I got an email from the vendor wanting the invoice #, so maybe I will just get sent a replacement.
The guy at Goodridge claimed no knowledge of a manufacturing defect and I told him to Google it.
Takes one right to this thread!
Not a rant, just another chapter of Mod Hell.
I was on the phone with them yesterday.
Right off the bat the guy says," We don't warranty anything bought on the internet".
Me," I bought them off Amazon"
Him, "What was the dealers name?"
I gave him the name then a 180 in attitude.
He says that I need to bring him the correct end so he can have a line made up.
I got an email from the vendor wanting the invoice #, so maybe I will just get sent a replacement.
The guy at Goodridge claimed no knowledge of a manufacturing defect and I told him to Google it.
Takes one right to this thread!
Not a rant, just another chapter of Mod Hell.
#30
Everything is taken care of.
If you want to know WTF was wrong, it was ME.
What happened is this:
The fitting (explained by GOODRIDGE ) has a better entry way (non taper) and their fitting is made of better material then the OEM, so any distortion of the threads on the mate will bind on the GOODRIDGE.
Sure as hell did!
I do not force anything, and when I read that three other people had the same problem with the same hose from GOODRIDGE I figure that I am in the same boat!
What GOODRIDGE told me to do was to "chase" the threads on the mate with a 3/8 24 fine die.
They demonstrated to me that the threads were correct with the fitting, so the problem was with the hard line end.
However, the hard line end had no problem mating up with the OEM (no binding either).
I chased the threads with a die and BINGO, bolted right up.
Mod Hell strikes again.
If you want to know WTF was wrong, it was ME.
What happened is this:
The fitting (explained by GOODRIDGE ) has a better entry way (non taper) and their fitting is made of better material then the OEM, so any distortion of the threads on the mate will bind on the GOODRIDGE.
Sure as hell did!
I do not force anything, and when I read that three other people had the same problem with the same hose from GOODRIDGE I figure that I am in the same boat!
What GOODRIDGE told me to do was to "chase" the threads on the mate with a 3/8 24 fine die.
They demonstrated to me that the threads were correct with the fitting, so the problem was with the hard line end.
However, the hard line end had no problem mating up with the OEM (no binding either).
I chased the threads with a die and BINGO, bolted right up.
Mod Hell strikes again.
#31
One of the front lines on my kit had an entirely wrong fitting on it. I remember having to find a reducer fort it so I could mate it to the stock line.... looking back I may pull that line and just have the end replaced now that I've found a local shop today can do it. I've had a spongy pedal ever since (ironic), and it's either the air I know is trapped in my abs system, our maybe that band-aid fix I is allowing air in ever so slowly...
Don't let that reservoir go dry!
Don't let that reservoir go dry!
#32
I bought my kit on eBay and it didn't come with the fittings for the banjo bolt. Pissed!!!! I wanted to change them while I changed my calipers. (see my thread). Waiting for reply back from seller.
#33
I am lucky(?), GOODRIDGE is right down the street, less then a couple of miles.
The vendor I got them from off Amazon offered to help in any way he could, so I wasn't major stressing.
Just more dues paid to MOD HELL.
The vendor I got them from off Amazon offered to help in any way he could, so I wasn't major stressing.
Just more dues paid to MOD HELL.
#34
For those of you on the fence about this install you may want to check your stock lines. Mine failed inspection and I was skeptical at first but after getting the front driver side line off it pretty much fell apart... really glad the tech found it. I'll try and post pics but it failed at similar location to others I've seen here, completely rusted through where the metal meets the foam shroud at the caliper end.
As for the install of the kit:
1. Probably just me but I thought the hardest part of the install was getting the lines in the proper orientation (without covering my floor and myself with brake fluid). I was excited to get the first wheel done only to start kicking and throwing things when I mounted the wheel and it rubbed the rim. For the rest of the wheels I ended up leaving the stock lines attached to the caliper and loosely remounting the caliper while tightening the stainless line to the hard line. This ensured that I matched the stock routing and didn't twist the lines.
2. As everyone else said, those clips are a pain in the ***!
3. Even though they were a pain to get off, I thought the stock clips went back on easier and produced a tighter fit than the new chrome ones that come with the kit.
Pedal feels great, even before I flush the 7 year old fluid out. FYI, I also installed Brake Motive's rotors and pads all around at the same time and no issues with those, so far so good.
As for the install of the kit:
1. Probably just me but I thought the hardest part of the install was getting the lines in the proper orientation (without covering my floor and myself with brake fluid). I was excited to get the first wheel done only to start kicking and throwing things when I mounted the wheel and it rubbed the rim. For the rest of the wheels I ended up leaving the stock lines attached to the caliper and loosely remounting the caliper while tightening the stainless line to the hard line. This ensured that I matched the stock routing and didn't twist the lines.
2. As everyone else said, those clips are a pain in the ***!
3. Even though they were a pain to get off, I thought the stock clips went back on easier and produced a tighter fit than the new chrome ones that come with the kit.
Pedal feels great, even before I flush the 7 year old fluid out. FYI, I also installed Brake Motive's rotors and pads all around at the same time and no issues with those, so far so good.
#35
Great write-up. Lots of brake lines on this thing
One addition, if you haven't used one, get a Motive Power Bleeder. Makes bleeding almost fun.....not really. Pressurizes the reservoir with an extra tank of brake fluid. Once it is pumped up, one trip around loosening bleeders until they run clean then on to the next wheel. I try to bleed mine once a year and this makes it a 10 minute job....assuming the wheels are off
One addition, if you haven't used one, get a Motive Power Bleeder. Makes bleeding almost fun.....not really. Pressurizes the reservoir with an extra tank of brake fluid. Once it is pumped up, one trip around loosening bleeders until they run clean then on to the next wheel. I try to bleed mine once a year and this makes it a 10 minute job....assuming the wheels are off
Thanks.
#36
The main kit I got was mvp-0118 which includes the pump and the above adapter, $68.
The aluminum adapter for the clutch reservoir is mvp-1109, $35 as well
Summit racing
#37
old thread but heres a general rule i think alot of guys forget and the reason for the soft pedal after install
after each line change you must bleed that line before removing the next. ive seen guys change their lines and remove them all at once. this is a NO NO of brake bleeding. just an fyi
after each line change you must bleed that line before removing the next. ive seen guys change their lines and remove them all at once. this is a NO NO of brake bleeding. just an fyi
#38
I've installed stainless lines on three of my own cars, two for friends, and have never stopped to bleed after each corner. While it certainly won't hurt anything, the way hydraulics work don't necessitate it, IMO.
#39
The new lines' fittings' grooves for the clips are too short so the grooves don't extend past the support bracket.
Also, my left rear line doesn't have a fitting that allows the banjo in the caliper to swivel. Did I just get a bad kit, or did anyone else notice this?
Thanks in advance.
#40
That's excellent information. I already have both of the plastic versions, but ordered the aluminum ones immediately. Thanks!