thebigjmsho

yup...

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Honestly I don't have a budget in mind nor do I know how much all this will cost. With that said, I'm still doing this as cheap as possible. The head unit I bought was used for some late model ford prototyping and is said to have less than 500 miles. I bought it with a 6" drive snout and 3 TVS pulleys for $1200.89 off eBay. I will keep a running total for all the parts and keep you guys posted. If there are any custom parts, keep in mind, you will have to source these. I don't have the time or money to produce custom parts. However, I have no issues telling you the dimensions. Honestly, this build is just for me but I have no problem sharing anything I find.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

As you can see, the upper manifold is just a cast and then machined to fit the 112. The dimensions on the 2300 are only 2 inches longer for bolts and about .41" over all. The back bolt holes line up perfect as does the back of the hole in manifold. The sides line up perfect. The last pic is a pic of the blower sitting on the manifold and you can see the castings even line up. Its like the 2300 was made to bolt to the CTS upper manifold. I really wouldn't even need to cut the hole bigger but I dont want any issues with the bypass valve. There is room under the blower for air to flow but opening up this area should allow the air to flow through the bypass easier when the bypass is open.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Nice, what do u have in mind as far as the blower drive?

raven154

iTrader: (14)

I'm gonna run the jack shaft like the 112. Which brings me to the first obstacle. The head unit was too wide to use the existing mounting locations on the front. Im making an adapter plate that will require I cut .5" off the front mount. I've already made one out of wood, now its time to make it out of metal.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Will the rear drive all line up? An I see a pic of what ur changing to the front mount. Does the Maggie 90 mm snout bolt to the front of the 2800? Last question I swear.. Lol are u gonna use the 112 intercooler ? And if so is it long enough to cover the longer case of the 2800?

raven154

iTrader: (14)

I'll get some pics of the front mount. I made a block out of hardwood for proof of concept and it worked. So now I'm taking my old mount and cutting it up on the mill and taking that block of wood and making one out of metal. The 112 snout will not bolt to the 2300. You can sorce a 90 from a G8 that will work (hopefully)

The intercooler covers the entire manifold front to back so it's plenty long enough for the 2300.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Sweet. And the rear drive pretty much bolt up or do u have to make a new rear bracket as well? Also the rear case cover and rear drive.. Does it bolt to the new case or do u have to use the 2800 rear cover and drive from say a g8?

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

After looking at the diagrams and the .5 tenths wider I'd guess u have to use 2800 parts. Duh lol

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I will end up making a bracket for the back as well and will probably have to build some type of idler for belt tension since belts that small are hard to come by. I will have to play with the back adjusting pulley sizes and such not sure how that gonna work out just yet.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Yeah nothing from the 112 bolts to this blower.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Subscribed.

Very interesting man!!

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Well I told you guys this would be long and drawn out, but I did make a little progress. I would have refined it a little more but I ran out of aluminum wire so I just slapped some paint on it and called it good. After many hours on the mill, the welder, the mill, the welder, and then finally the mill again, I have something that looks somewhat respectable.









It's a tight fit for the shaft down the side of the blower but my LS2 throttle body was closer and didn't cause any significant issues so hopefully I'll be good with the placement.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

That is a modified MP112 front mount by the way. I cut out a slot on the back and made a piece that fit it. I drilled it and welded it in and then put it on the mill to clean it up. Shouldn't go anywhere.

A factory mount for reference.

ichpen

OOh, you took it a few steps further than I. Glad to see you working on this.

Sorry, just started frequenting this forum properly as the CF forums are now officially tripping my malware alarms.. Sad.

I did do a small writeup on the CF forum and now that my engine is all fixed up I'm not too afraid to post less embarrassing pics on this.

In case you're curious, my 'cheat' build was a complete GTO LS2 TVS 2300 unit. Bolts up just fine with plenty of space out back. Front was a bit more awkward, the idler bracket needed modification and special idler and offset snout pulleys are needed. Also some strategic holes on the underside of the hood are needed to clear the snout pulley. And you can't go bigger than 3.2" on the snout or you will cut through your hood

TB needs to be flipped also.

Not too crazy in terms of work. Few things will need relocating if you take my approach. Looks pretty good though.

Raven here is doing the ultimate mod, and reusing the maggie mani.

On an unrelated sidenote, I just did a 6th gear pull in traffic (whilst data logging) to measure my boost and I'm over 10psi at 3k rpm so will likely be close to 14psi at full WOT. Hmm... Little bit scary now. That stock diff, hehehe..

psychobillycaddy

iTrader: (4)

14psi on a 402....Daaaaamnnn thats some boost! what pulley do you have?

Just bite the bullet now and get a rear kit so you can sell your diff before it dies and recoup a few bucks on the cost.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Ok I have another major snag and Magnacharger is full of a bunch of complete retards and are no help what so ever. Turns out that they have two seperate part numbers of rotor packs. A counter clock wise and a clockwise rotor pack and they dont sell either one outside of a repair and a kit. I have a clockwise and need a counter clockwise. I think I can flip the rotor pack but I will need to machine hte housing to accept the locator dowels on the rotor bearing plate. Not sure I want to do that. The rotor plate kind of self centers itself simply because of the way it is made so I thought about just pressing the dowels out. The other issue is, the bearing plate has a cut out in the back were it discharges. If I flip the bearing plate, then I wont have this feature and I am no engineer so I dont know exactly what this will do to the air flow if I flip it.

So at this point, I am serisouly thinking about just putting the 112 back on and calling it good. Or I can attempt to use the head unit as intened and run a snout drive, rear entry like the fords which will require a lot of custom intake work or I'm thinking about assembling the motor and selling it. Putting the 112 back together, sell it, and then put a stock motor in the car and sell it.

If people werent so stupid (read, magnacharger) this wouldn't be that difficult. Unfortionatly, these are the types of issues one faces with trying to build it yourself. Try to save a few bucks and ends up costing 10 times as much lol

ColeGraham

iTrader: (8)

DMM

That sucks man, really sucks. Nothing worse than being so frustrated that you want to wash your hands with the whole deal. Since you already have the 112 off, you could port it and get a little more power out of it. Just trying to find something here.

Panther427

What about using a larger hood. Like a cowl style as your air box right into the charger. If you was to run the snout drive