Moving forward with the TVS swap
#41
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok I have another major snag and Magnacharger is full of a bunch of complete retards and are no help what so ever. Turns out that they have two seperate part numbers of rotor packs. A counter clock wise and a clockwise rotor pack and they dont sell either one outside of a repair and a kit. I have a clockwise and need a counter clockwise. I think I can flip the rotor pack but I will need to machine hte housing to accept the locator dowels on the rotor bearing plate. Not sure I want to do that. The rotor plate kind of self centers itself simply because of the way it is made so I thought about just pressing the dowels out. The other issue is, the bearing plate has a cut out in the back were it discharges. If I flip the bearing plate, then I wont have this feature and I am no engineer so I dont know exactly what this will do to the air flow if I flip it.
So at this point, I am serisouly thinking about just putting the 112 back on and calling it good. Or I can attempt to use the head unit as intened and run a snout drive, rear entry like the fords which will require a lot of custom intake work or I'm thinking about assembling the motor and selling it. Putting the 112 back together, sell it, and then put a stock motor in the car and sell it.
If people werent so stupid (read, magnacharger) this wouldn't be that difficult. Unfortionatly, these are the types of issues one faces with trying to build it yourself. Try to save a few bucks and ends up costing 10 times as much lol
So at this point, I am serisouly thinking about just putting the 112 back on and calling it good. Or I can attempt to use the head unit as intened and run a snout drive, rear entry like the fords which will require a lot of custom intake work or I'm thinking about assembling the motor and selling it. Putting the 112 back together, sell it, and then put a stock motor in the car and sell it.
If people werent so stupid (read, magnacharger) this wouldn't be that difficult. Unfortionatly, these are the types of issues one faces with trying to build it yourself. Try to save a few bucks and ends up costing 10 times as much lol
Sell your HU and just bite the bullet and find a used box 1. A lot easier methings. Or try a 1900 which I hear anecdotally might work better.
#42
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just out of curiousity what keeps the 04 z06 tvs 2300 kit magnacharger has from fitting these vehicles? Granted some of the plumbing wouldn't work right but that seems like a minor issue. I'm thinking take the bracketing out of a v kit and the blower from the zo6 kit with the manifold etc....
#43
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just out of curiousity what keeps the 04 z06 tvs 2300 kit magnacharger has from fitting these vehicles? Granted some of the plumbing wouldn't work right but that seems like a minor issue. I'm thinking take the bracketing out of a v kit and the blower from the zo6 kit with the manifold etc....
#44
TECH Regular
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cypress TX
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know how it feels to do all that work, and spend all that $$$, just to take a step back and realize you're only half way done. It's pretty disheartening, but if you keep grinding along and finish it up you'll have one bad *** V1.
With that said.... I'm in the market for a forged short block, LOL. PM me if you end up pulling in.
With that said.... I'm in the market for a forged short block, LOL. PM me if you end up pulling in.
Ok I have another major snag and Magnacharger is full of a bunch of complete retards and are no help what so ever. Turns out that they have two seperate part numbers of rotor packs. A counter clock wise and a clockwise rotor pack and they dont sell either one outside of a repair and a kit. I have a clockwise and need a counter clockwise. I think I can flip the rotor pack but I will need to machine hte housing to accept the locator dowels on the rotor bearing plate. Not sure I want to do that. The rotor plate kind of self centers itself simply because of the way it is made so I thought about just pressing the dowels out. The other issue is, the bearing plate has a cut out in the back were it discharges. If I flip the bearing plate, then I wont have this feature and I am no engineer so I dont know exactly what this will do to the air flow if I flip it.
So at this point, I am serisouly thinking about just putting the 112 back on and calling it good. Or I can attempt to use the head unit as intened and run a snout drive, rear entry like the fords which will require a lot of custom intake work or I'm thinking about assembling the motor and selling it. Putting the 112 back together, sell it, and then put a stock motor in the car and sell it.
If people werent so stupid (read, magnacharger) this wouldn't be that difficult. Unfortionatly, these are the types of issues one faces with trying to build it yourself. Try to save a few bucks and ends up costing 10 times as much lol
So at this point, I am serisouly thinking about just putting the 112 back on and calling it good. Or I can attempt to use the head unit as intened and run a snout drive, rear entry like the fords which will require a lot of custom intake work or I'm thinking about assembling the motor and selling it. Putting the 112 back together, sell it, and then put a stock motor in the car and sell it.
If people werent so stupid (read, magnacharger) this wouldn't be that difficult. Unfortionatly, these are the types of issues one faces with trying to build it yourself. Try to save a few bucks and ends up costing 10 times as much lol
#45
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you want to do a Maggie, your best off getting a G8 kit and modding it. Of course youll need LS3 intake ports so you'll need some sort of LS3 heads.
Thats the kicker for the 2004-2005 guys, LS6 with LS3 heads is a no go unless you spend some serious cash on Mast heads. You may as well get a forged LS3 block with the correct reluctor built.
If your a 2006-2007 truck motor you have more options like throwing on a set of $600 LS3 heads and calling it a day.
your other option is ordering the custom E-Force with Cathedral ports. Youll need the accessory drive for it and you can sell your 112 unit.
#46
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
corvette G8 and CTS-V have the same belt line for the acessories. GTO is different.
If you want to do a Maggie, your best off getting a G8 kit and modding it. Of course youll need LS3 intake ports so you'll need some sort of LS3 heads.
Thats the kicker for the 2004-2005 guys, LS6 with LS3 heads is a no go unless you spend some serious cash on Mast heads. You may as well get a forged LS3 block with the correct reluctor built.
If your a 2006-2007 truck motor you have more options like throwing on a set of $600 LS3 heads and calling it a day.
your other option is ordering the custom E-Force with Cathedral ports. Youll need the accessory drive for it and you can sell your 112 unit.
If you want to do a Maggie, your best off getting a G8 kit and modding it. Of course youll need LS3 intake ports so you'll need some sort of LS3 heads.
Thats the kicker for the 2004-2005 guys, LS6 with LS3 heads is a no go unless you spend some serious cash on Mast heads. You may as well get a forged LS3 block with the correct reluctor built.
If your a 2006-2007 truck motor you have more options like throwing on a set of $600 LS3 heads and calling it a day.
your other option is ordering the custom E-Force with Cathedral ports. Youll need the accessory drive for it and you can sell your 112 unit.
A vette kit will line up but you will need a cowl hood 100% plus lots of plumbing. It's the position of the headunit on the manifold that makes this kit problematic. Pulleys line up.
A G8 kit obviously heads. Pulleys line up.
GTO kit. Perfect position on the mani but pulleys do NOT line up.
Whichever way you look at it there's custom work and that's before you slap on the rest of the stuff.
All of the above are doable. It's not all that bad. You just have to cost it out and factor in the extras like hoods, or heads, or custom fab work and pulleys.
#47
TECH Regular
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cypress TX
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm assuming the GTO accessories will contact the V radiator, but if you COULD squeeze them in it would be possible to use all the GTO accessories plus the GTO supercharger kit for a complete setup with no "custom" parts. By no custom parts I mean, you could buy all the parts directly from GM or Magnasun.
If you found a GTO complete pull out motor you could get a good deal on all the accessories.
#48
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
GTO belt line is spaced farther from the block, correct? Do you know by how much.
I'm assuming the GTO accessories will contact the V radiator, but if you COULD squeeze them in it would be possible to use all the GTO accessories plus the GTO supercharger kit for a complete setup with no "custom" parts. By no custom parts I mean, you could buy all the parts directly from GM or Magnasun.
If you found a GTO complete pull out motor you could get a good deal on all the accessories.
I'm assuming the GTO accessories will contact the V radiator, but if you COULD squeeze them in it would be possible to use all the GTO accessories plus the GTO supercharger kit for a complete setup with no "custom" parts. By no custom parts I mean, you could buy all the parts directly from GM or Magnasun.
If you found a GTO complete pull out motor you could get a good deal on all the accessories.
Actually I think you'll have clearance but swapping to GTO accessories is not that simple. You'd basically have to claim a gto motor and take them off with the necessary brackets plus the harmonic balancer. Don't think that's the most cost effective way.
Yes I did check that also.
#49
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
#50
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know it's way to late to do this now but what do you think about getting the GTO kit and just having a new jackshaft made that has the same spacing as the V? The only other pulley to worry about would be the idler and its pretty wide, it might be wide enough to not have to worry about spacing...? Thoughts?
#51
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
that was me but on a 2007 LS2 car. Its on and running but not tuned yet. Im getting ready for an exam next Saturday and then Ill get back to finishing it. It was actually a simple install for just the SC part. That was done 3 weeks ago.
#52
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know it's way to late to do this now but what do you think about getting the GTO kit and just having a new jackshaft made that has the same spacing as the V? The only other pulley to worry about would be the idler and its pretty wide, it might be wide enough to not have to worry about spacing...? Thoughts?
#53
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I still don't understand why you wouldn't be able to use the G8 jackshaft and mounts. Not just the shaft but the front mount too. That should give you the shallow offset like the V without and issues. Should! Is the key. I'm sure you have seen this stuff first hand though so you have a better idea than I.
#54
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I still don't understand why you wouldn't be able to use the G8 jackshaft and mounts. Not just the shaft but the front mount too. That should give you the shallow offset like the V without and issues. Should! Is the key. I'm sure you have seen this stuff first hand though so you have a better idea than I.
#55
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I guess I still don't understand why you wouldn't be able to use the G8 jackshaft and mounts. Not just the shaft but the front mount too. That should give you the shallow offset like the V without and issues. Should! Is the key. I'm sure you have seen this stuff first hand though so you have a better idea than I.