dudesweet

iTrader: (3)

BTW, that spacer is cheaper directly from Katech...$59.99:
http://store.katechengines.com/cts-v...pacer-p95.aspx

Anyone have a link to the slave?

hnic91

The slave cylinder is back in stock again today. I bought it along with the remote bleeder, and clutch with lighter flywheel from sdparts. I know what people have said about the flywheel and longevity but I don't beat on me car much so I'm sure I can get another 70k miles out of it. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

It's harder to avoid choking out the engine from a standstill, even after a good tune. Rev matching is easier, though.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

But you don't need it if you buy LS7 everything.....

Awesome!!!!! I guess you just have to keep checking back!!!

dudesweet

iTrader: (3)

True.

Just thought I'd add the link for those folks that were being stubborn. I'm still trying to find a good link/part # for the slave. Only one I found in this thread is the one from O'Reilly.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

That is about it right now unless you goto GM.

blownZ71

iTrader: (1)

I have a Katech spacer that I never used if someone is interested in it. Maybe $30 or so.

dudesweet

iTrader: (3)

Looks like the GM LS7 slave cylinder is P/N 24237634 ... about $180 ish.

NatedogV

had the entire LS7 kit installed at Lindsay recently... definitely like it so far, only issue is vibration in the clutch pedal when shifting over 3000 rpm... does this go away after more break-in or a clutch bleed? I generally run motul 600 RBF for fluid and they put stock fluid in for now but i'm curious if others experience this vibration at higher RPM shifts after a few thousand miles...

hnic91

Picture of LS7 clutch from Scoggin Dickey



Should be installed tomorrow

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

Guys...the only issue with a light flywheel is driving away from a stop sign. The lighter wheel has a lot less inertia and the car will tend to bog a bit and slip the clutch compared to a heavy wheel. They may not tolerate severe heat as well. The good side of this is because of the less inertia, it will rpm much quicker and put more power to the wheels. If you are a road racer, you will be able to drive much deeper into the corners. Also, when you need to replace the clutch, you simply ship your wheel back to the manufacturer and have them replace the insert. New flywheel at a third the cost!

BTW, if you really want a hot set up, go as light in the clutch as you can get away with, and use a deeper first gear trans. That was always worth a ton of e.t. in our race cars.

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

This would really bother me. If you have it now, and didn't have it before, I would be very nervous about what is going on. You only feel it in the pedal? And only above 3000 rpm? Does the pedal pulsate?

raven154

iTrader: (14)

BTW you don't even have to send the flywheel in. I replaced the friction surface on my Fidanza and it cost $56 and even came with new hardware from Summit.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

This is the flywheel that I pulled out last night. I really dont think this is good.

http://youtu.be/yAKbC4wORe0

shadyLS6

looks normal.. standard dual mass turd right thurrr

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

It explains the damn vibrations too

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Funny, when I took mine out it slipped off the trans and came crashing to the floor severing the extension cord for the drop light and throwing sparks everywhere while my friend and I jumped back to avoid getting toes chopped off.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Hey fellas, I'm looking at putting a parts pile together for this swap soon. I've been reading around like crazy about what parts to get, etc but I'm confused about something. I read conflicting info about either the slave or the remote bleeder needing to have straight or angled lines so you don't have to bend the line to match up to the notch in the bell housing. Can anyone straighten me out on this? Thanks!! An thanks for all the info here in this thread too. It's been helpful. Now if I could only get some type of guarantee that my pedal won't engage at the floor after this, I'd be pulling the trigger on buying everything. Unfortunately pedal engagement sounds like a roll of the dice though :S

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

If you get the LS7 Slave, you need the straight bleeder with c6 fitting. If you keep your stock slave and get a spacer, you will need the bent line, and might have t notch the bellhousing, IDK about that nothc cuz i got the new slave.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the clarification on that. Are the "straight bleeders" for different applications than the "bent bleeders"? Or do I just confirm with whoever I buy the bleeder from that the line is straight (since Ill have an LS7 slave)?

EDIT:
Which bleeder would this be? Bent (the one end appears bent...) with C6 fitting? If so, how would I get the "straight" one?