B&M shifter
#61
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I picked up those pvc pieces from Home Depot, $0.30 each. By your picture, the linkage is 3/4" wide, and the pvc pieces measure 3/4" plus the 1/8" end lip, so if 3/8" is cut off the length of each one, they should fit perfectly in there.
I got the brass pieces from Brian today for the center linkage arm, so as soon as my clutch kit shows up I will schedule an appointment and get all this put in. It should be done by the end of the month, I'll report the results here and some pics of the stock bushings that come out.
I got the brass pieces from Brian today for the center linkage arm, so as soon as my clutch kit shows up I will schedule an appointment and get all this put in. It should be done by the end of the month, I'll report the results here and some pics of the stock bushings that come out.
#62
Cadzilla, you're the man! I'm going to be following what you did completely. Just out of curiosity, how much time is involved in dropping the transmission on this car? I assume it can be done in a couple hours tops. Is it a PITA to get back in? I've got plenty of experience, just wondering if there is anything about this car in particular that is going to bite me in the ***. It's my only car right now so I need this done in one day flat.
BTW, not really having to do with this thread, but do our transmissions take GM synchromesh? What fluid are you all using?
BTW, not really having to do with this thread, but do our transmissions take GM synchromesh? What fluid are you all using?
#67
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I went with the complete LS7 setup including slave.
#68
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
This is awesome. It is going to make me put my new clutch on the fast track, just to have the trans out to do this.
Now....mods, how about a sticky, with an organized list of everything needed and where to get it?
Or maybe someone can put together a package and sell it?
At any rate some seriously awesome information here! Keep it up Cadvilla.
Now....mods, how about a sticky, with an organized list of everything needed and where to get it?
Or maybe someone can put together a package and sell it?
At any rate some seriously awesome information here! Keep it up Cadvilla.
Last edited by NIKDSC5; 04-01-2012 at 06:25 PM.
#69
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cadzilla you are a genius! Just got my car back with the bushings replaced and my shifter has never felt better! ALL slop is gone, I love it!
Everyone needs to do this yesterday!
Everyone needs to do this yesterday!
#70
Nice.. Did they do any of the jb welding or just replace the bushings etc? I also re-wrapped my shifter stalk with dynamat. Been driving mine for about a week..loving it so far. I can hardly discern the play in neutral while driving, I have to really feel for it..much better than before. In gear there's absolutely no play at all, very solid. I already take it for granted haha....
#71
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No jb weld, just the brass and PVC bushings and I can't imagine it being any tighter. I already have the b&m shifter and uuc bushings so that part was already done. It actually feels like I have a proper short shifter now.
#75
Teching In
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damn! The B&M came with bushings that other shifters didn't correct? What are some recommendations for shifters? I need PVC from Home Depot, Brass bushings from CTSV07, Shifter from...?
Clutch is starting to crap out so I guess its a good time for the LS7 swap also!
Clutch is starting to crap out so I guess its a good time for the LS7 swap also!
#77
Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Round Lake Beach
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Totally works!!
I agree with DMM.
B&M is the sheeit! gotta be your bushings or somethings loose. Make sure everything is torqued down everywhere. Dont listen to the people who say to leave the linkage bolt at the bottom loose. That's only if you have the crappy stock bushings, They are weak and will bind if torqued too much, limiting movement.. The B&M fixed that with metal bushings, so tighten away. Mine is TIGHT. no issues. Same goes for the 2 bolts that hold the shifter base down to the plate (tighten the nuts from under the car), and the 2 that are just under the foam in the middle of the plate. torque those to the max. If that doesn't do it, you may have other issues, or, sometimes you just have to double clutch it and reset the synchros. I've found that a drop into 4th resets everything nicely before entry into 1st or R.
B&M is the sheeit! gotta be your bushings or somethings loose. Make sure everything is torqued down everywhere. Dont listen to the people who say to leave the linkage bolt at the bottom loose. That's only if you have the crappy stock bushings, They are weak and will bind if torqued too much, limiting movement.. The B&M fixed that with metal bushings, so tighten away. Mine is TIGHT. no issues. Same goes for the 2 bolts that hold the shifter base down to the plate (tighten the nuts from under the car), and the 2 that are just under the foam in the middle of the plate. torque those to the max. If that doesn't do it, you may have other issues, or, sometimes you just have to double clutch it and reset the synchros. I've found that a drop into 4th resets everything nicely before entry into 1st or R.
I also plan on replacing the trans mount, differential bushing/mount. Should help out even more!
Gotta love these forums!!