Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

V1, how much HP to hit 10.9?

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Old 04-05-2012, 09:13 AM
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The newer version diffs are pretty strong but they wont take the beating for too long when you're putting some serious power to the ground with good traction. I doubt ill have an issue with my 8.8. Its a solid setup. Only thing i'd change is upgrade the driveshaft when this one goes and get something to completely kill the wheelhop. It still hops every now and then.
Old 04-05-2012, 02:09 PM
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I'm glad to see I'm not the only one tryin to take a v1 into uncharted territory. I too am going for 10's actually ive got my eyes set on 9's but good to see someone else isn't just giving up bc it's perfect and isn't afraid if spending some coIn to get it there. I hope you get that 10 man as I hope I do too. Should be a blast!!!
Old 04-05-2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by slowlaneblues06
Unlike in the cobras, we can just bolt up a solid rear axle. The mustang conversion is pretty much if not straight on bolt in swap.
I don't follow. I am not aware of a bolt in kit for the V. I mean, I think it would be laborintensicve, but nothing a Mig, a ruler and a plumb bob can't fix.

Originally Posted by GulfM3
Neversatisfied, shoot me a PM when you are heading to the track.
This. I live almost 2 whole minutes from the track.

Originally Posted by 04Vguy
there will be a solid axle in my v1 hopefully by the end of the year. i will have a full documented write up done with pictures and everything done step by step. hopefully, if my builder lets me hahaha. either way there will be finished product pictures fo sho.

new motor should be done by end of the month. we will see how long it takes the stock IV gen dif will last hahahahahaha.
Can't wait for this.

Anyone know what the wms to wms on the back of a V1 is?
Old 04-05-2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by NeverSatisfied02
Considering this isn't a perfect world... I'd say closer to what I said. Given these cars have a hard time getting out of the hole, you'll need the extra power/torque.

My car making 550 ran a best of 11.8 on street tires when my buddy ran it. That was with a shitty 60 foot because it was prior to the built rear. With the 8.8 rear and some good tires, should go 11.5 now.
What kind of MPH are you trapping in the quarter?
Old 04-06-2012, 08:39 AM
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[QUOTE=54inches;16164727]I don't follow. I am not aware of a bolt in kit for the V. I mean, I think it would be laborintensicve, but nothing a Mig, a ruler and a plumb bob can't fix.



I menat to say cant, not can
Old 04-30-2012, 01:54 AM
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I ran high 11's with my ws6 with bolt ons, stall, radials, cam, and stock suspension. not sure if the V weighs that much more, but 550 at the wheels oughtta be low 11's even with that weight. guess it depends on how horrid the suspension is.
Old 04-30-2012, 03:37 AM
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Originally Posted by I8UR4RD
I ran high 11's with my ws6 with bolt ons, stall, radials, cam, and stock suspension. not sure if the V weighs that much more, but 550 at the wheels oughtta be low 11's even with that weight. guess it depends on how horrid the suspension is.
Says the F-Body moron that knows jack **** about the V1...

Read this...and seach the section about trying to get the V1 IRS to hook properly...before you say anything else retarded.

Last edited by ColeGraham; 04-30-2012 at 03:44 AM.
Old 04-30-2012, 10:38 AM
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Haha that's too funny
Old 04-30-2012, 11:12 AM
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I think his second sentence took the retarded out of the first statement. He's right to think the power to weight should get you to those times, but admittedly he wasn't sure how bad the suspension was (for drag).
Old 04-30-2012, 02:57 PM
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Only thing i'd change is upgrade the driveshaft when this one goes and get something to completely kill the wheelhop.
Look into the Drive Shaft Shop Driveshaft for our cars. I have the carbon fiber version and its been great!
Old 04-30-2012, 03:37 PM
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Yeah, but upgrading the driveshaft basically puts a limit to your top speed before you encounter ridiculous vibrations and possible driveshaft failure. I'm unsure on what exact limit is, but I've seen somewhere around 130-140.

V1 would probably need 800whp and some sort of rear cradle, axles, and diff forged out of Wolverine's bones.
Old 04-30-2012, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by odthetruth
Yeah, but upgrading the driveshaft basically puts a limit to your top speed before you encounter ridiculous vibrations and possible driveshaft failure. I'm unsure on what exact limit is, but I've seen somewhere around 130-140.

V1 would probably need 800whp and some sort of rear cradle, axles, and diff forged out of Wolverine's bones.
you can upgrade to a 2 piece driveshaft which uses a U-joint. You can also do a carbon fiber 1 piece which is rated 210mph only the aluminum 1 piece is rate to 140mph
Old 04-30-2012, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by odthetruth
Yeah, but upgrading the driveshaft basically puts a limit to your top speed before you encounter ridiculous vibrations and possible driveshaft failure. I'm unsure on what exact limit is, but I've seen somewhere around 130-140.

V1 would probably need 800whp and some sort of rear cradle, axles, and diff forged out of Wolverine's bones.
Skydiver is over 850rwhp on a mustang dyno, should ask him if thats enough for 10's.
Old 05-01-2012, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by vmapper
Skydiver is over 850rwhp on a mustang dyno, should ask him if thats enough for 10's.
In 09, he landed somewhere at 11.6 with a cast on and traction issues. I have no ideas what his mods were, and if he ever went again \ put up a new time. Definitely would be interested though. It should be 10 seconds at over 850whp IMO.
Old 05-01-2012, 10:13 AM
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Yes, the aluminum version is rated for 150MPH critical speed. The Carbon Version is over 250MPH

There was a post from Frank one time on the 150MPH critical speed issue and said

There is a "Safety factor" built into this equation, keep in mind that the numbers shown are the SAE ratings for Critical speed. This being said its a Theoretical number. No one has taken shafts and run them until they break to get this reading. its a Calculated number based on the natural frequency of the material being used. That being said there are allot of other factors to consider when calculating this number. Critical speed is a altered buy several things, one being the level of balance. we are balancing this on a machine that we can run the shaft up to 9500Rpm or with in 20% of critical speed (witch ever comes first) most balancers will spin at a very low speed like a tire balancer and will only account for the weight centerline. this machine is able to spin the shaft to real world speeds and we are able to see exactly what goes on at those speeds. If the u-joint, tube or any other part of the assembly is not 100% we see it immediately and can correct it.

This being said the level of balance being done is crucial to the speed it will start to have an issue, we have to state the Critical speed for legal reasons but i will say this, we also have a Hines Eliminator balancer. its considered one of the best in the industry and if we take a fully balanced shaft from that machine and put it in the new high speed one we can take the balance further. In the Drivetrain manual put out by SAE it states that many things will effect the critical speed. the material of the tube (this is Alcoa DOM tube,the best) how the parts are mounted. there are perfect center lines on each end of this car (not a U-joint type yoke that has centering issues) it also is using a CV on one end that is much more stable in an angle situation than a u-joint and the one that will effect the number the most is the suspension. all of these calculations are from the 60's and 70's when the driveshaft would move up and down with the suspension, when a car like this hits a bump at high speed it has the ability to bring a drive shaft into its unstable area so they gave it a very large safe factor.

This being said the SAE book also stated if the shaft is mounted rigid (like an independent diff is) numbers will be higher and it also states that the numbers being reached safely are challenged every day. Again due to "legal" reasons the 150MPH number has to be given.
Old 05-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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Yeah, I also remember seeing a thread where someone ran their car over 140+ mph and encountered some SEVERE vibration on the track, which ended up being their upgraded driveshaft.
Old 05-01-2012, 10:13 PM
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I dont think that the V1's main issue is the IRS or the rear diff any more. Brian ( pissinuoff) has put some insane abuse to his 4th gen rear. The fact that with 500whp+ he hasnt broken it baffles me. Also Gforce and MM have made some great rear options for our vehicles which people have bought.

It honestly just seems that the V2 guys are more about drag and road racing then V1 guys. Not sure why that is but it seems to be that V1 guys like to race from rolls and be ok with a nice looking car. While the V2 guys either have the cash or just like to push the envelope more ( with a better built car stock). Since i've moved to Michigan every even i've been to either with turns or going straight i have seen more v2's competing then v1's.

We have about 10-12 v1's with built rears and many with gen 4 rears. Just no times from them. And many many cars run fast times at the strip with an irs, many of them are Gm based vehicles. If i recall didnt Stepside ( or someone with a similar sn) run 12.1 with a cam and a OEM rear? I'm sure if more people went and hit the strip with either the gen4 diff or the 9"/8.8 we would see lower 60's and quicker times.

That was really the reason why i made the 1/4 thread so people would be motivated to go drag.
Old 05-02-2012, 03:45 PM
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I would drag all the time, if I had a 9" Gforce setup... sigh...
Old 05-02-2012, 05:25 PM
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If the V1 had better seats I would do more road course track days. Are there really more v2's doing road course track days than V1's? I find this odd just based on car value, cost of maint, most have the slushbox factor, etc... Yes before somebody gets all touchy about the automatic I already know the official ring time was set with a auto v2 (JH is the reason for that time, he could have set it in a cvt based v2)and that it is documented to be faster than the manual in several 0 to whatever tests, its still slushy unless somebody wants to loan me one to change my opinion.
Old 05-03-2012, 12:10 AM
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im just saying the 2x more thing on what i have seen in person. At my track day the v2 guys there were ex v1 people, and according to them they never did anything with their v1's.


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