54s 05V Build thread
07-19-2013, 11:45 AM
#61
Go for the studs, makes it much easier to hang the header. Just be sure to put some anti-seize on the end going into the block. Also with 125,000 miles the stock bolts are going to be seized in there real good. Get a can or two of pb blaster and CRC freeze off. I used the freeze off first then chased it with pb blaster. Didn't break one bolt. Have fun with the headers, it's a fun project.
07-19-2013, 02:44 PM
#62
Go for the studs, makes it much easier to hang the header. Just be sure to put some anti-seize on the end going into the block. Also with 125,000 miles the stock bolts are going to be seized in there real good. Get a can or two of pb blaster and CRC freeze off. I used the freeze off first then chased it with pb blaster. Didn't break one bolt. Have fun with the headers, it's a fun project.
I have installed 10-15 sets without studss, and I have always had an easy time startin the first and last bolts so they hange.
I cannot see this being any different.
I also think exhaust studs get in the way of my knuckles when I am wrenching around them with the exhaust off.
Totally personal preference here.
CRC Freeze off is waste of money; used it, hated it.
Again, with my opinions. DAMN! With that said, I have a can and 1/2 left over, so I might as well try it. I have been spraying the bolts down with PB blaster for a week and will continue to do so, so it will creep in there.....
If you want a real good creeping agent; 1/2 Acetone with 1/2 Power Steering fluid is the best. Been proven better than PB Blaster and Kroil.
Not my opinion; I actually have the independent test article at home.
When I start, it will be headers, plugs, wires, starter, motor mounts, cats, oil change upper and lower ball joints and tie rods.
If I wait long enough, it may be my Homemade Motor mounts and rear trailing arms too.
Thanks again for your input!!!
07-20-2013, 07:35 AM
#63
True the studs could get in the way of your hands later on. But with the limited space I couldn't imagine trying to use the stage 8 fasteners. I went with studs for one reasons only, the heads are aluminum. The more you take a bolt out and thread it back in the chances of pulling the threads with the bolt increase each time. With a stud it's in there once. Either way its up to you, it's your build.
The freeze off seemed to work great for me. I used it to get the o2 sensors out as well. I've heard of the acetone and power steering fluid method too, good to know it really works.
The freeze off seemed to work great for me. I used it to get the o2 sensors out as well. I've heard of the acetone and power steering fluid method too, good to know it really works.
07-20-2013, 10:55 AM
#64
Yeah, I feel ya on the Al heads. I have dealt with Al, but it seems down here in the south we don't have to deal with alot of the corrosion problems that you do up north. Salty air can be a huge difference.
My al head days go WAY back to the L98; been using pb blaster on exhaust manifold bolts on them for awhile.
I have a process and it seems to work. The very first time you pull any bolt out, it should be taken out very gently unless it is finger tight and you canr emove it with your fingers.
I usually start backing it out and if I get ANY resistance, then I dowse it with PB blaster and move on to the next.
It takes longer, but I don't have to worry about galled threads as much.
After they are out each bolt, if going back in is cleaned and a die is run over it.
A tap is run threw the hole until I can run a bolt down it all the way finger tight. This way you know you have proper engagement.
Anti-seize on all bolts.
With this method, I have had very small instances of failure. I always reapply the anti-seize after each removal.
I actually have more issues with iron heads than Al.
Thanks again for the suggestions; I may regret the Stage 8, trying to get the little parts on there, but I have not heard of anyone using them, so we will see.
My al head days go WAY back to the L98; been using pb blaster on exhaust manifold bolts on them for awhile.
I have a process and it seems to work. The very first time you pull any bolt out, it should be taken out very gently unless it is finger tight and you canr emove it with your fingers.
I usually start backing it out and if I get ANY resistance, then I dowse it with PB blaster and move on to the next.
It takes longer, but I don't have to worry about galled threads as much.
After they are out each bolt, if going back in is cleaned and a die is run over it.
A tap is run threw the hole until I can run a bolt down it all the way finger tight. This way you know you have proper engagement.
Anti-seize on all bolts.
With this method, I have had very small instances of failure. I always reapply the anti-seize after each removal.
I actually have more issues with iron heads than Al.
Thanks again for the suggestions; I may regret the Stage 8, trying to get the little parts on there, but I have not heard of anyone using them, so we will see.
08-19-2013, 08:41 PM
#67
OK, got the Bansxki and Revshift stuff in and started what I thought was goign to be an easy job on the balljoints. I have done them before and they were a snap.
It has taken me 4 hours to do one side.
If course I have been degreasing and cleaning up a bit, but no more than an hour of that.
Decided to park the car for a few weeks and drive one of the other rides, so I can get the headers, starter, plugs/wires and other parts installed at my leisure instead of having to rush it in two days on the weekend.
It has taken me 4 hours to do one side.
If course I have been degreasing and cleaning up a bit, but no more than an hour of that.
Decided to park the car for a few weeks and drive one of the other rides, so I can get the headers, starter, plugs/wires and other parts installed at my leisure instead of having to rush it in two days on the weekend.
08-19-2013, 09:17 PM
#68
You've got a pretty tedious job planned there. Good thing you've got other rides available. I like to take my time and clean/paint as I go.
I went with standard replacement bolts. Hanging these headers wasn't bad at all. Plenty of clearance on either side.
After hanging and rehanging a couple times, my method is this:
Drivers side:
- Slide the header up into place, reach up through opening with bolt and begin rearmost thread enough to hang it there without the gasket.
- Go to top side
- Align gasket in place and begin front bolt
- Back out rear bolt and align gasket to the rear and replace bolt
- Then thread the rest of the bolts
Passenger side:
- Slide the header in, go to the top and align front bolt (you can attempt to do the gasket at the same time hear if you have the patience)
- Go to the underside and thread the 2nd to rearmost bolt and align gasket in whichever order preferred.
I went with standard replacement bolts. Hanging these headers wasn't bad at all. Plenty of clearance on either side.
After hanging and rehanging a couple times, my method is this:
Drivers side:
- Slide the header up into place, reach up through opening with bolt and begin rearmost thread enough to hang it there without the gasket.
- Go to top side
- Align gasket in place and begin front bolt
- Back out rear bolt and align gasket to the rear and replace bolt
- Then thread the rest of the bolts
Passenger side:
- Slide the header in, go to the top and align front bolt (you can attempt to do the gasket at the same time hear if you have the patience)
- Go to the underside and thread the 2nd to rearmost bolt and align gasket in whichever order preferred.
08-19-2013, 09:35 PM
#69
Thanks bud!
I am using the stage 8s and Delco gaskets; do you think there is enough room to stick a bolt in each end of the header and capture the gasket as well. Both bolts through the gasket on each end?
I am sure changing the motor mounts is going to be MUCH easier with the exhaust out of the way!
I am using the stage 8s and Delco gaskets; do you think there is enough room to stick a bolt in each end of the header and capture the gasket as well. Both bolts through the gasket on each end?
I am sure changing the motor mounts is going to be MUCH easier with the exhaust out of the way!
08-20-2013, 09:45 PM
#70
Stage One of the build has begun!
I got the car up in the air and secured with two nice ramps in the back and 4 jack stands along with the jack in the front with the jack for added safety.
Pulled the battery as it has been idling slow; no SES light.
If the battery has a bad cell, then I think I am going to get something a little smaller and lighter. Any suggestions for a DD?
I also pulled the battery tray as it gives some more room at the back to get at EVERYTHING.
I am oping to find that elusive passenger compartment filter.
All bolts in the engine bay and underneath have been sprayed with Freeze Off by CRC. I bought a few cans to see if they would work and I am trying to waste them before I start on what is left of my PB Blaster.
I am then going to mix up some power steering fluid/acetone mix and check out how it works. If you have never heard of it, just google it and look for the article in Machinists Workshop; Volume 20, Number 2, April/May 2007. (ATF works too)
I am going to soak the bolts until the weekend and start removing everything.
Once I get everything apart, I am going to inspect, clean all areas and then hopefully chase all of the bolt holes that I can get to.
I got the car up in the air and secured with two nice ramps in the back and 4 jack stands along with the jack in the front with the jack for added safety.
Pulled the battery as it has been idling slow; no SES light.
If the battery has a bad cell, then I think I am going to get something a little smaller and lighter. Any suggestions for a DD?
I also pulled the battery tray as it gives some more room at the back to get at EVERYTHING.
I am oping to find that elusive passenger compartment filter.
All bolts in the engine bay and underneath have been sprayed with Freeze Off by CRC. I bought a few cans to see if they would work and I am trying to waste them before I start on what is left of my PB Blaster.
I am then going to mix up some power steering fluid/acetone mix and check out how it works. If you have never heard of it, just google it and look for the article in Machinists Workshop; Volume 20, Number 2, April/May 2007. (ATF works too)
I am going to soak the bolts until the weekend and start removing everything.
Once I get everything apart, I am going to inspect, clean all areas and then hopefully chase all of the bolt holes that I can get to.
08-28-2013, 10:44 PM
#71
Well, Off for a few days, drunk for a few days, then sick for a few days......lol
Been spraying down the exhaust and motor mount bolts with PB for a few days....went out there today and most of them came out with EASE.
The plug wires were easier to remove once the header was loose.
We got all of the plugs, wires and manifolds out of the way.
I had mentioned that one bolt was missing, well, ****, it apparently sheared off at some point as it is fairly flush with the head.
Luckily it is the back one on the passenger side.
We moved on to the Revshift Motor Mounts.
Jacked the engine up and everything came out fairly easy.
I got the mounts with the silicon heat shields and then wrapped them in lava exhaust wrap; the kind that does not hold moisture.
Mounted those.
Came in to drink Honey Mead and beer.
More to come tomorrow.
Been spraying down the exhaust and motor mount bolts with PB for a few days....went out there today and most of them came out with EASE.
The plug wires were easier to remove once the header was loose.
We got all of the plugs, wires and manifolds out of the way.
I had mentioned that one bolt was missing, well, ****, it apparently sheared off at some point as it is fairly flush with the head.
Luckily it is the back one on the passenger side.
We moved on to the Revshift Motor Mounts.
Jacked the engine up and everything came out fairly easy.
I got the mounts with the silicon heat shields and then wrapped them in lava exhaust wrap; the kind that does not hold moisture.
Mounted those.
Came in to drink Honey Mead and beer.
More to come tomorrow.
08-29-2013, 09:02 AM
#73
interesting, im going to try that next time i remove the headers, thanks for the info
08-30-2013, 05:08 PM
#75
I am not sure who make the Yellow Motor mounts as they suck. UUC?
I pulled them out the other night and one of them had the bolted delam from the motor mount material.
Found this product at brokenbolt.com and I had just imagined this tool in my head on the way home and low and behold someone already makes it.
I am waiting on a kit price.
It may work with the head on!!!!!!!
I pulled them out the other night and one of them had the bolted delam from the motor mount material.
Found this product at brokenbolt.com and I had just imagined this tool in my head on the way home and low and behold someone already makes it.
I am waiting on a kit price.
It may work with the head on!!!!!!!
09-02-2013, 09:02 PM
#76
Well broke the bolt extractor off in the head as well, so I just put the headers on and hoped for the best.
Finished up the exhaust today, but did not have time to install the cats, SO, I just bolted everything back together and will do them this weekend.
With all of the new parts, she starts, steers, and sounds SO much better than before.
It is better than when I got her 2 years ago.
The exhaust is a little loud but when the Cats go in, it will be a little tamer.....
Finished up the exhaust today, but did not have time to install the cats, SO, I just bolted everything back together and will do them this weekend.
With all of the new parts, she starts, steers, and sounds SO much better than before.
It is better than when I got her 2 years ago.
The exhaust is a little loud but when the Cats go in, it will be a little tamer.....
10-15-2013, 11:45 AM
#77
I finally got around to installing the cats a few weeks ago and except for running out of gas in the MIG 10 seconds into welding everything went great.
I have a few leaks and need to get rid of the Pacesetter band clamps and get everything fulling rewelded.
I am still having AC issues, all of the shocks are near shot and I need to paint the front bumper.
Alot of little things needs to be done to freshen her up.
She is right at 129,000 miles.
I have a few leaks and need to get rid of the Pacesetter band clamps and get everything fulling rewelded.
I am still having AC issues, all of the shocks are near shot and I need to paint the front bumper.
Alot of little things needs to be done to freshen her up.
She is right at 129,000 miles.
11-19-2013, 12:48 PM
#79
AC is fixed.
I just got back from G-Force and again had a great time with great results.
380ish rwhp.
Time for a new rear-end.
05 V BLACK LS7 Clutch/Slave, Tick Bleeder, RevShift MM/TM, AZ shifter, V2 ****, Pacesetters coated in/out, SLP cats, xpipe/bullets, cags!, Volante, G-force tune; 3378.56rwhp, 368.66 rwtq
I just got back from G-Force and again had a great time with great results.
380ish rwhp.
Time for a new rear-end.
05 V BLACK LS7 Clutch/Slave, Tick Bleeder, RevShift MM/TM, AZ shifter, V2 ****, Pacesetters coated in/out, SLP cats, xpipe/bullets, cags!, Volante, G-force tune; 3378.56rwhp, 368.66 rwtq
