Skidmarcx

I was told around 180 is a good temp for the LS, but yea GM designed it all around emissions especially without EGR temps need to be higher

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Among other things, if you run that low a temp consistently, your engine oil won't get to a high enough temp to boil off condensed water so it can be removed by the PCV system. You'll have to change your oil more frequently.

Dmax/04V

Newer diesels like my Duramax like the 170 range, LS motors we run like the 180-190 range. Running in the 160 range I'm pretty sure will retard the timing if I remember my tables correctly. Operating temp has to be reached or the ECU will not play nice for starters.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Stock stat is 187*. Most discussions about coolant temps agree around 180-200 is good for performance and reliability, but additional power can be had below 180 due to less heat soak of incoming air but at a cost of additional wear. Also coolant above 180 usually means oil will get above 180 as well which most agree helps water evaporate from the crankcase. Timing is reduced around 212 for coolant according to ls2 stock tune.

greddy91

iTrader: (2)

Google "160 t stat LS1" and there's PLENTY to read - I live in Oklahoma and the car does not see rain,ice,snow etc. ever. The summer gets plenty warm and that's where the V sees most of it's driving. The IAT battle with the maggie is a mean mother; the 160 stat keeps it fluttering at the 175-178 mark pretty consistently which is the expected delivery of a 160 stat. In the spring and fall the temps get closer to 170 and the IAT's stay down at a friendlier 115-125 until you lay into it.

What I know of forced induction: basically a cardinal rule is the cooler you can get the motor running the better. You avoid retard due to knock and/or dreaded detonation. These can both rear their heads, but that's an advantage of tuning on cooling deprived rollers of a dyno. You're essentially punishing the motor as much as it would see on any heavy use.

Regarding the oil temp to evap issue: I still change my oil at 3k regardless and run synthetic. I also keep a steady supply of plugs on hand and change them at the beginning of every driving season. Extreme? Yeah probably a little... Here's my thought though...

The factory stat and tune are built for longevity; by longevity I mean the average consumer motorist who runs the oil change a bit too long and waits until something is wrong in order to maintenance it. All the manufacturers practice this... that's why you can squeeze 10-15 hp/tq and get a much better fuel curve from a custom tune. The stock tunes cover the mass production factor and take into account that every motor will be a certain percentage more or less capable than the next.

Lower temps - ambient, coolant, IATs... they all work better for me in this environment - that's going to vary from V to V. Do your research just like anything else you might consider doing and make sure you are doing it right the first time. Then cross reference it again just to be sure.

Case and point: I'm in the hunt for a TBSS AWD with a blown tranny right now. Why? Ask any TBSS owner what the weakest point of the drivetrain is... I want to swap in a 6 speed on day one and not have to worry about putting down sick amounts of hp/tq through a factory designed bandaid.

And dyno numbers - back on topic wholly - 498hp and some 47xish number I don't recall on the torque. (Thanks LS6.) The extra oomph came from the cam and the incredible tuning at SNL.

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

So my car is in the shop getting some things done to it nothing serious. It needs a good dyno tune which I have not been able to get to yet since the cam and maggie install last summer so It has a street tune. Well the shop that my car is at right now had a dyno day (Mustang dyno). They said toss yours on there and I said ok. 3 pulls and one said 412 and another said 392. ???

Cam, LTs, Maggie, catback, CAI, Melled pump etc and it only did 392 - 412? Stock clutch with stock flywheel maybe part of the problem because something isnt right.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

you should easily be in the 450rwhp range. Do you have a dyno sheet?

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

Getting the shop to email me a copy. I'll post it when I get it.

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

Well here it is . This is my first time seeing it actually and it seems jumpy

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

Seems like its running rich. I would think they would target closer to a 12:1 AFR or 11.5:1 but I could be mistaken.

Skidmarcx

Yea target sounds about right... mine is 11.8

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you get it retuned, take the trip to Slowhawk in Bridgewater MA.

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of going to RPM in Delaware

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

take it somewhere else for a tune. its too rich and ill bet the timing tables are all off. the curve looks like its having a heartattack

DMM

The purpose of EGR is to reduce combustion temp's under cruise conditions by displacing available oxygen with exhaust. EGR is no longer required with the overlap in the OE cams and catalyst over temp protection. Operating temp does not really come into play here.

Lower operating temps make it possible to run additional ignition advance, that's why every car runs so much better when cold. The stock tune adds 2* of timing from 68*-113*, and 4*+ of timing between 68* and colder. There is also and additional 3*-12* of timing advance from 50*-122* ECT for Catalyst light off.

The stock tune starts pulling timing at 230*. Remember, this is just ECT, the computer also pulls timing for IAT's also if you are at 230* ECT.

Excellent choice. Yeah, your tune is jacked up. I would go out on a limb and say it doesn't run smooth when cold, but starts to clear up at at 140* ECT. Your LT's are probably way out also since the MAF and VE tables are not correct. The power enrichment (PE) multipliers are based off the these tables and will be all over the place if they're not correct.

Bottom line, it looks like the guy tried to rape your tune and these are the typical results. Since you power is so low, max timing is probably really low, which is the only saving grace.

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

What do u mean LTs are way out?

DMM

Long Term fuel trims...the amount of compensation (fuel) the computer is adding to achieve the target AFR based on O2 sensor feedback (O2 sensor feedback adjustments begin at 131* ECT). FYI - there is no feedback during PE mode, the AFR is whatever it ends up being (which is why it can be all over the place).

Edit: There are ST (short term) and LT (long term) adjustments. When the ST's drive high enough for long enough, they result in a LT adjustment that is further refined with ST's. LT values in excess of 5 or -5 indicate your tables are way off and require adjustment.

A tune that does not require feedback adjustments will always perform much better and feel much smoother with improved throttle response since the engine is getting the fueling it needs exactly when it needs it rather than adjustments made after the fact.

Hope this made sense.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

So you believe trying to run an LS engine at 160-170 is beneficial beyond just slightly increased power? this doesn't negatively impact anything else?

JayBirdWs6

iTrader: (1)

Damn DDM do u tune? Lol

DMM

It will not hurt anything. There is a possibility that lower operating temps could result in increased cylinder bore wear, but I don't believe it's enough to worry about. I had a 160* T stat but took it out b/c is was junk. If anyone knows of a decent one, let me know.

Aside from the cooling fan settings, the open loop multiplier tables (Open Loop F/A vs. Coolant Temps vs. MAP) have to be adjusted since the computer is commanding cold start fuel enrichment until 158*, which still falls in the range of the 160* T stat.

Edit: DTC P0128 (Coolant T-Stat) has to be set to "No Error Reported" also or that dreaded yellow light will be on.

I only tune my own stuff...dabble really...and I still require help myself. RPM is an excellent choice and they will take care of you.