Front Diff bolt wont line up with cs dif block?
05-26-2012, 12:02 PM
#1
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Front Diff bolt wont line up with cs dif block? Has anyone experienced issues when trying to line up the bolt in the new diff bushing after they have installed the diff block from CS? It almost seems as if the top left corner of the diff (where the bushing is inserter into) slightly hits the diff block when it is placed in there just enough where I cant push the diff up anymore to get the bolt to slide in. Just seeing if anyone has experienced this.
05-26-2012, 01:05 PM
#4
05-26-2012, 01:32 PM
#5
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I had this same issue the first time I had the diff out to replace the bushing. Ended up not using it cause I thought it was the reason nothing was lining up. I can tell you that is not your problem. You more than likely do not have the diff itself level & straight. I finally had to remove the jack & just man-handle the diff up in there while a buddy put the bolt in. It still took a little persuasion. Tip: Make absolute sure that block is in there as tight as possible. I put a piece of wood against it and hit it with a hammer a few times.
05-26-2012, 01:58 PM
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05-26-2012, 02:34 PM
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Yes the block seems like it is really in there I have been using the jack but it hasn't helped maybe I will lift it be hand and see if someone else can slam that bolt in there. I have pushed on the block real hard i'm taking a break and gonna attack it again later ton
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05-26-2012, 03:26 PM
#8
Update: got it. My solution was to jam a pair of hockey pucks between the bottom of the car and the top of the subframe near the differential (you'll have to lower the subframe to wedge them in there).
This improvised solution solved the problem of having not enough room to thread the bolt back into the differential bushing. Last night, with the differential jammed up against the bottom of the car (pressure applied by a hydraulic jack to the very front of the housing), the angle on the hole was such that the washer on that long bolt interfered with the heatshield above the driveshaft. With the hockey pucks in place, the angle was improved and I could thread the bolt successfully.
By the way, the amount of pressure required to compress the differential block was immense. Almost lifted the back end of the car off the jacks!
This improvised solution solved the problem of having not enough room to thread the bolt back into the differential bushing. Last night, with the differential jammed up against the bottom of the car (pressure applied by a hydraulic jack to the very front of the housing), the angle on the hole was such that the washer on that long bolt interfered with the heatshield above the driveshaft. With the hockey pucks in place, the angle was improved and I could thread the bolt successfully.
By the way, the amount of pressure required to compress the differential block was immense. Almost lifted the back end of the car off the jacks!
05-26-2012, 04:28 PM
#9
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05-26-2012, 04:39 PM
#10
That makes more sense. I would've been worried about the 1/2" extension either punching a hole in the rubber block, flying out of there, given the amount of pressure it requires.
05-26-2012, 09:36 PM
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I tried this again tonight it isnt a problem of me not getting the bolt not threading i just cant get the dif bushing lined up with the subframe to get the bolt in. The block is in and it is pushed as hard up as I can get it.even wit the jack pushing up on dif and pushing the dif block still isnt moving and I know the diff is pushing on the block hard. No matter how hard i push the diff up with my hands muscle it up or with my tranny jack the thing just wont center properly. I do not see how there is any way to get this thing back in. Any other suggestions guys?
05-26-2012, 11:25 PM
#14
TECH Enthusiast
Man I'm telling you it's not lined up straight. I fought mine for almost 12 hrs. Then all of a sudden it just fell into place. Make sure it is not only level going in but also straight front to back (if that makes any sense lol).
05-26-2012, 11:59 PM
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haha ok I will try that in the AM ssmokd i may also try that fuzzy at this point after 5 hours of just trying to get it back in im completely frustrated and tired and willing to try anything!
05-27-2012, 12:03 AM
#16
Impressions are: no more clunk. That's the only change. Glad not to have to worry about embarrassing myself with passengers in the car. I was hoping for a little less latency in terms of throttle response, but in the 5 miles I drove tonight, couldn't identify anything. Maybe I would've if this car were making more power, or if the existing bushing was a little older.
05-27-2012, 12:48 AM
#17
damn guys its a pain but come on... honestly its a two person job. me and my buddy had to work together on it. we pulled the diff on mine to do the bushing etc. after replacing the bushing we began to rebolt up the diff. the rear two bolts need to be a few threads tightened so it can hold the weight of the diff. we put dielectric grease on the diff block and cleaned the area where the block goes up so it could be slid in with ease. i will say since the block is a solid piece that they arent all exactly the same when molded. we pushed the diff block in, and yes its very tight as it takes up that voided area to help reduce diff movement. its a very long bolt that bolts in. have one person shove up on the diff. have the other person tap at the bolt with a hammer. after getting the bolt through the diff, we took the 21mm socket wrench and gently turned to the bolt till the threads caught the other side. it took about 6 or 7 minutes. the whole procedure we took pics etc and will post a right up on this. whole process took about 1 and 45 mins from start to finish, with hand tools in a garage. have not restabed the tranny at this point as im installing the a ram heavy duty slave in to a V. and working on a different bracket for the shifter. installed bmr bushings, kars anti wheel hop kit, diff bushing and block. cant wait to see how it does. the new bushings for the diff... and that diff DOES NOT MOVE. old bushing fell out upon turning the diff on its end, removed the sleeve and knocked in the new bushing using map gas on the housing and tapped in the new one with a socket and hammer. good luck guys
05-27-2012, 02:57 PM
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4door you must be the man lol I seriously dont understand how it was so easy for some of you it does not seem to matter how I do it the hold will not line up exactly and I have no way to get a hammer or anything else up there to knock this bolt in. The bolt is literally an inch and a half longer than it needs to be. Next I am going to use some lithium grease in the hole and on the bolt see if I can slip it in there it seriously should not be this hard. I have tried putting the jack straight in the middle a little to the left to the right front back nothing seems to work the whole is off by less than a couple centimiters. The left edge of the bushing just sticks out into the hole slightly.
