Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Looking for people’s experiences with endlinks-

From what I’ve always read, the reason for going to z06 endlinks is because once you go too low, you could snap the stockers. I’ve had several different combinations of shocks/sways/springs on my car with ride heights down to 26” fender to ground, including some hard driving, and never snapped a link. I’ve also read that the shorter links keep the (entire) bar parallel with the chassis which is the optimal operating position. The longer links keep the bar angled “up” and, I assume, introduce a ton of preload once loaded on the ground…im not sure as I’ve never had the chance to play with them while the car was on a alignment style lift resting on the tires.

Is there also a benefit from the stiffness/sturdiness of the z06/ aftermarket links that people don’t speak of?

I have 600/650 springs, qa1 cranked up stiff, stiffer sways, and I’ve even firmed up my cradle bushings significantly, 26.5” ride height all around..….SOB should feel like a huge concrete block on the ground…….but no, I can make my car rock back and forth significantly with 2 fingers……maddening! I remember when I had 500/550 springs and (newer) fg2s, and it seems like I remember it being nearly impossible to generate any body rocking even with 2 hands…like the car was glued to the damn ground.

I’ve come to the conclusion that this is caused one of very few things- 1) the endlinks are being ‘stretched’ to their limit, introducing a ton of preload on the sways. 2) it’s just the cumulative wear of the control arm busings allowing the car to ‘rock’ back and forth since everything else is firmed up so much 3) qa1s propensity to allow a "soft" compression easily but be very firm on bumps, hence it being able to rock at a standstill but feel like a brick on the road bumps...

Just wondering if anyone has had an issue like this that was corrected by changing to the shorter links and getting the sway bars at the correct angle??… or could the control arm bushings just be getting old?

70,002 miles on the odo.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

The benefit of powergrid end links is that they are adjustable and you can change them when you change your ride height.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Yes, to keep them at the right angle...but why...

they are nice. $300 nice. What is the benefit of adjustability? To be cool?

How low do you have to go before the stock ones snap?

I just want to know if there's any merit to the thought that if the sway bar has a **** ton of preload, will that affect ride and could it be why my car will rock back and forth easily even though everything else is tight.. I think it's these stupid qa1s if the answer is no...

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

I'm not positive but I believe you want to be zeroed and have no preloading of the bar.

An adjustable endlink allows the length of the endlink to be varied, thus preventing preload when at rest. Ideally sway bar is not supposed to be preloaded at rest. A sway bar that is heavily preloaded can affect the rather "bumpiness" of the car when cornering or going over bumps.

Alternate adjustable endlink

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1997-2004.html

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.. I found a bunch of detailed info on a bmw m forum.

Looks like I need another set of ramps.

I think the adjustable links are definitely the way to go..

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you want some stock C5/C6 endlinks, I have an extra pair (including the correct washers and nuts) that I'm looking to get rid of. I bought four of them, forgetting that the rear end link bolt holes on this car are rotated 90 degrees relative to each other.

furbe

Are the stock sway bar end-links prone to breakage? Maybe if you use larger aftermarket sway bars? I have the stock sway bars and end-links and have had Zero issues and
put them through some extreme angles...
[IMG][/IMG]

A little body roll is a good thing!

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

If you are lowered they are definitely more prone to breaking because you are altering the position of the sway bar when the car is sitting in a neutral static position.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

If you use Z06 endlinks and you aren't lowered.....

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Agreed. Too little body roll and the tires break loose in the corners. Some guys even disconnect sways on the track for more grip. The body roll absorbs some of the energy in turns.

furbe

I don't know about Z06 end links but the stock ones have not failed me no matter the angle and if you look at my rear tire in that picture you ain't gona get more angle than that. Something must be right 1:39s-1:40s ain't too bad at Big Willow

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

Adjustable endlinks are the best overall option because they will allow you to zero out the swaybar at any ride height you set. any time you change the suspension geometry you run the risk of preloading the swaybar. A preloaded swaybar is not a good thing, as it increases the springrate, and makes handling at the limit unpredictable.

SSmokd U

So wait,let me get this straight. I should not use Z06 end links without being lowered. Correct? This is good info cause I am getting a bit of a popping sound in the left front if I am turning slowly to the left. Thought the end link may be the problem & was looking to replace with Z links.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Correct. If you don't plan on lowering, snag a set someone else swapped out from the forum. If you plan on lowering, then get the adjustables linked above.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

Best bet would be to upgrade to adjustable if you are going to replace them. That way you will have no issues with any suspension geometry

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

I never had an issue on the track or otherwise with the stock sway bar and end links. I have the same setup as you (lowered to 26", QA1's cranked up and 600/650). If you swap to Hotchkiss sways then you want the shorter end links. The Hotchkiss significantly helped my car with body roll. The car is way more planted after I installed them.

SSmokd U

I am gonna have to start doing some suspension mods cause you all talk like it is a night and day difference with new sways and lowering. I mean with the car stock I was pushing street bikes harder than they could go across the Tail of the Dragon lol. Had them pull over and give me thumbs up two different times then come up to me while I was parked at either end talking about how good it handled. I can't imagine it being better!

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

The response and control really is as stated night and day after shock and spring kit is installed. It makes the car feel solid and nimble if that makes sense. If I modded a v again gc, kW v3 or LG kit would be first mod before headers even. For disclosure have the kW v3 kit.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I finally got a little time in the last couple of weeks to swap my 600/650/qa1s for 500/550/and new fg2s, plus some zo6 links (impulse buy) .. Well, make that 3 new fg2s and 1 with 65k miles. I snapped the threads off one of the new rear fg2s. Glad I had an old one lying around.. I’ll just buy another new rear…. Wait…. Fml.


The new nut was going on so smooth compared to the old one, I didn’t even notice it freeze up.. The same torque I used before (nothing crazy, maybe 40lbs?) snapped it right off..didn’t twist or anything. I was cranking down trying to crush those F’N spacers because I was too impatient to wait on the MM kit…

Any creative suggestions on how to fix this are appreciated…I’m not sure I’ll be able to get more threads cut..the rod seems to be filled with a concrete type material which is probably why it snapped.. There’s a local shock build/repair shop that’s going to look at it for me. Maybe cutting the rod off flat and welding a cap on there with a threaded rod on the cap itself, will do the trick..I have another old fg2 and 2 rear fe4s, so I can salvage fresh threads from those to experiment, just need to have a small hat cut, then weld it all together..

After coming from the qa1s and stiffer springs, the 500/550 with fg2s was just too soft.. so a couple weeks later I changed the rear out to 600.. Better. The front still seemed too soft, so I took off the wheels to change out the fronts to 550, and found one of the z06 links had popped out of the socket…

yeah, fml again. ?.85 is highest reading on the G meter. I tried to pop it back in with a hammer, and it worked, but the housing is now cracked. I doubt the dealership will take it back now. I should have left it popped out… went back to the stockers for now.

///
Before one broke, the shorter links did seem to make things firmer and more planted vs the stockers. They reduced the effective length of the sway bar and brought the suspension components closer to the ground despite the same before/after fender height, so a lower cog is achieved. I still think the adjustable option is the best route and I plan to buy some one day…I loaded the suspension with both the stock and z06 links, and compared the geometry from the underside.. I noticed the stock links are too long, and the zo6 are actually too short, to allow the bar to sit neutral at the rested height I want…the ‘neutral’ spot is actually in between (for the ride height I was at anyway: 26.5 all around).

The pogo effect was greatly reduced after the swap to the softer shocks, springs, and shorter links. However, I now think it was at least partially stemming from a few other factors I hadn’t discovered until I went looking again… a loose or broken motor mount, a sagging trans mount, and a stock diff bushing. These are greatly contributing to a rubber band type oscillation that is manifesting itself into a pogo effect, especially over humps and other undulations that cause the drivetrain to lift and fall.

I’m going back to the 500 in front because the 550 overpowers the fg2s ever so slightly…mostly on dips and longer rather than normal bumps…as a dd, I need the V to be more compliant on the commute…the stiff suspension is fun but you pay for it if the roads are crappy.. I do have a stronger front bar which I’ll add with the 500s to give me more in the corners where I want it , but with a smoother ride through the dips and humps.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you want, I've got a pair of new Z06 end links that I mistakenly thought would fit my rear end for sale.

Honestly, I think 650 in the front with FG2s is just about perfect. The car starts feeling unsettled when you're running high spring rates in the rear. Granted, I'm running 700 lbs springs back there anyway, so my tolerance for that kind of ride must be greater than yours (that, or our roads are better).