Maggie or Whipple... What to do?!?
07-18-2012, 08:50 PM
#42
Well 1badcts if you really want to do the motor, I'll build it for ya. Say 500 for the bottom end or 650 for a complete long block ready to bolt in. I can have all the machining done minus head work for around 600. You would have to buy the rods and pistons.. I'll have the bearings spec'd once the crank is looked at and polished.. They would be part of the machine shops bill. You would need a gm performance gasket set and decide what u wanna do with the heads and compression ratio and all that. It would prolly be cheaper to find someone locally since you'd have to pay to ship the block and crank but if I can help let me know.
You can also get a forged iron block ready for heads from a few places for like 3500. I can get u links of you'd like for them. I'd love to see a v1 with a whipple that makes good power so of I can help I will
You can also get a forged iron block ready for heads from a few places for like 3500. I can get u links of you'd like for them. I'd love to see a v1 with a whipple that makes good power so of I can help I will
07-18-2012, 09:45 PM
#43
I think you are right that shipping would probably ruin the advantage, but maybe you would be willing to help spec parts, and help me know what to make sure gets done? I scored a complete 2005 'V dropout with the full accessory set, heads... Everything.
07-19-2012, 01:24 AM
#44
Depends on what u wanna do with it really.. With the whipple I'd drop compression down to 9/1. Get ur heads ported or sell em get aftermarket if u really wanna make power. Either way the stock heads won't become a restriction till ur up there.. Honestly I'd just get h beams 6.125 with arp2000 bolts.. And any forged piston in a 3.905 bore. Use the stock crank and have everything balanced. New bearings of course (which I have the machine shop spec out once it's polished and that's pretty much it for the bottom end.. U can re use ur stock lifters with some hardened pushrods 7.4 and just do valve train stuff depending on ur cam. Other than that it's just gaskets. I stay away from aftermarket gaskets but to which it's own.
It's really not that bad as long as u find a place that doesn't try to bend u over on the labor. That's where it adds up. Biggest two things u gotta worry about with these motors is ring gap and torq on all the bolts... ( rods, mains etc) like I said any questions just contact me man.. I'll help u out as best I can.
It's really not that bad as long as u find a place that doesn't try to bend u over on the labor. That's where it adds up. Biggest two things u gotta worry about with these motors is ring gap and torq on all the bolts... ( rods, mains etc) like I said any questions just contact me man.. I'll help u out as best I can.
07-19-2012, 01:40 AM
#46
That's a big blower for a 5.7. Once u start with big boost you'll have to back the timing off with a higher compression.. 9/1 should be good for when the boost is jacked up. But yes u will make more power on lower boost with the higher compression. All depends on how much psi he wants to go
07-19-2012, 02:20 AM
#47
That's a big blower for a 5.7. Once u start with big boost you'll have to back the timing off with a higher compression.. 9/1 should be good for when the boost is jacked up. But yes u will make more power on lower boost with the higher compression. All depends on how much psi he wants to go
07-19-2012, 03:18 PM
#49
i wouldnt stroke it with FI. id forge it and boost the **** out of her. that blower can easily make 15lbs with the over driven balancer and a couple steps down in drive pulleys.
thats why i say forge it at 9/1 with a big blower cam. boost her to 15lbs and youll be up there. youll have to play with pulley combos on the dyno to see what she'll like.
thats why i say forge it at 9/1 with a big blower cam. boost her to 15lbs and youll be up there. youll have to play with pulley combos on the dyno to see what she'll like.
