soulja

iTrader: (3)

Took the car out for its first real drive to work today. All I can say is WOW!! This thing pulls like a V on steroieds!! The difference is unbelievable. I am so happy I can't take the grin off of my face. The tune 1BADCTS had on the PCM he sold me runs great. I do get some backfire on high rpm shifts, so I may still take it to the tuner to get it tweaked since his tune was tweaked for a Magnavolt, and I have a Walbro Fuel Pump.

Regardless, the install was a success! Thanks Guys!! I will post vids when I get some time.

Skidmarcx

Sweet man! Glad you're happy with it! I know the feeling

soulja

iTrader: (3)

Took the car to Vector Motorsports to get the car tuned off of the tune 1BADCTS gave me on his PCM. The first (non tweaked) run put out 408rwhp/367rwtq at 6psi of boost. Steve at Vector manage to squeeze out another 20hp to 427rwhp/382rwtq at 6psi of boost. We did have some IAT issues, I was hanging at 140deg. We figured I didn't bleed the intercooler well enough and there wasn't enough coolant running through. I also noticed he ran it with the A/C on. I don't know if that would rob it of any numbers or not. DANG Mustang Dynos!

http://s332.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=IMG_0926.mp4

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

cam it and throw some headers on it, and you'll be really amazed

soulja

iTrader: (3)

I already have some pacesetters on it. I have thought about a cam, but I think I will not put anymore money into it. I will most likely be going to a V2 next year.

1BADCTS

iTrader: (17)

Congrats! Now show us an engine bay pic... I miss that thing already!

9 Months without my car leaves me really missing a good performance car...

In the summer I ran water + water wetter, with zero antifreeze and saw an average 5-8 deg temp drop in IAT. Then during the winter replaced it with 50/50 antifreeze.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I don't know anything about Vector Motorsports, but I do know that running the car on the dyno with the A/C on is an amateurish mistake. Those numbers seem 30-40 RWHP low. I'm beating you with a small cam (Mustang dyno as well), and I'll probably jump a little higher when I install my 4.0" silicon intake tube. Have you tried checking in with Punishmentcycle? AFAIK, he's got a lot of experience with the CTS-V MP112 and IATs.

soulja

iTrader: (3)

Sure I will post a pic up soon.

soulja

iTrader: (3)

I am not absolutely sure he ran it with the A/C on or not. Doesn't the AC and all turn on automatically when you turn the car on? That may be the case. Anyway I emailed them to ask. This guy does most of the tuning for Katech so I would think he knows his stuff.

soulja

iTrader: (3)

Some bay pics. You can't eat off of it like Fuzzy's engine bay though. I still need to get an LS2 strut bar. Photobucket is giving me some issues, so I attached them.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I don't think I'm anywhere near there, but you can be the judge of that.

Have you considered dumping a couple of buckets of very soapy water on there and finishing it off with a good rinse? Should improve things a lot. Then you could use some engine degreaser or Eagle One A2Z, which works surprisingly well as a degreaser. Mother's VLR is a good finisher for plastic pieces. This is how your bay should look in the end:



Finally, you might be able to contact brian@magnusonproducts.com to see if they'll sell you the strut bar pictured above. They fabricated those for Lingenfelter's TVS1900 kit for the CTS-V (which isn't being sold anymore).

soulja

iTrader: (3)

Soldered in the Omega thermistor for my IAT sensor and the temp changes are definately quicker. I also checked the coolant in the Intercooler hoses and yes, there was still quite a bit of air. I was able to pour a couple of cups of coolant in. I wish I could get it dynoed again, but oh well.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

the thermistor mod is good at getting the actual temp dialed in quick, go on frozenboost.com and grab an in-line filler neck..it takes all the guess work out of bleeding the HX.
were always gonna have high IAT's due to the sensor location but thats just the way its gotta be with these blowers. another trick when on the dyno is to leave the key on when tuning and cooling as the HX pump will continue to flow..put the fan right in front of the nose to cool the maggie off.

and last but not least, make sure all acc's are off during dyno time, tuning,and doing pulls. the ac does but a load on the motor. not much but it does

acaringnihilist

Throw an open cone on there so you can actually hear the blower. Nice work, never the less.

kl2onik

iTrader: (3)

Dang fuzzy you really gotta put your back into it to get the engine so spiffy looking. What degreeser did you use? And what toothbrush lol?

soulja

iTrader: (3)

I think I am going to go this route. What cone filter are you guys using for your maggies. Also, what coupler is needed to complete the install?

soulja

iTrader: (3)

I went ahead a bought an KN Filter and put in the trash can heat shield. The supercharger whine is definitely much more pronounced now. The only whine I want to hear in this car.

soulja

iTrader: (3)

So I have been pondering on why my dyno numbers (427RWHP, 387RWTQ) were much lower than I had expected. I figured maybe the stock box wasn't pulling enough air. I also ponder if the 8.8, thicker driveshaft, and thicker axles, could be causing more drivetrain loss. Well, now the last thing to add to the list, and I am pretty upset that I didn't notice this before taking it in and paying $550 for a tune. I have a darn 3 inch pulley on the supercharger instead of the 2.8 pulley. 1BADCTS, I don't now how you got your numbers off of this.

Anyway, anyone has a 2.8inch maggie pulley they don't need anymore, or shoudl I just go straight to a 2.7 or 2.6 pulley?

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

Since you will need a retune with the 2.8 anyways might as well go with the 2.6 and maximize the power potential.

soulja

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I may just go with the happy medium and get a 2.7. I don't want the headache of belt slipping that I have read with the 2.6. What size pulley are you running?