Installing ground control kit this afternoon... Any tips to make it easier??
08-07-2012, 01:57 PM
#41
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It might seem like that, but in actuality, you have to be doing some insane driving (i.e. get massive air) to unseat the springs. Once you get the proper end links in there, there will be no gap, even with the wheels all the way off the ground.
Removing the rear perch probably isn't worth the extra wear and tear that will occur. You barely get any additional drop, as counter intuitive as it may seem. Try it and see if you agree.
Lastly, sorry about the confusion. I forgot that the front collars are on the shock body, not the upper mount (it's been a while since I've been in there). You're right--spin then up to raise the front of the car. It's good that you're doing this now with the stock end links. Once you add aftermarket end links, spring tension will make it almost impossible to spin that collar unless you compress the spring with a pair of spring compressors. It's a pain in the ***.
Removing the rear perch probably isn't worth the extra wear and tear that will occur. You barely get any additional drop, as counter intuitive as it may seem. Try it and see if you agree.
Lastly, sorry about the confusion. I forgot that the front collars are on the shock body, not the upper mount (it's been a while since I've been in there). You're right--spin then up to raise the front of the car. It's good that you're doing this now with the stock end links. Once you add aftermarket end links, spring tension will make it almost impossible to spin that collar unless you compress the spring with a pair of spring compressors. It's a pain in the ***.
As far as the rear perch, what would wear more without them? I suppose i can put them on with the perches first and see how it sits. If its too high, i'll explore my other options. Perhaps ill trim my stock rear springs to the height i'd like. I recall a thread here where someone else did that and liked it. Cut springs in the front will cut through the isolator and cause that metal on metal squeaking sound after awhile. The rear is silent and i didn't have any issues with the springs being cut on my old car. I wonder what the disadvantage would be to running cut springs in the rear and the coilover up front. I decided to try the 500lb springs up front first. I'd imagine the factory spring rate cant be much lower than that if its lower at all and since the rear isn't a true coilover, i can't see it being much different.
Ok cool. Makes sense now. And i'd have the z06 links in if they would fit. lol But... Sounds like i'll just leave the stockers in for now and swap the z06 ones in after i get the cars height set where i want it and feel like drilling to fit them in there.
08-07-2012, 02:55 PM
#42
I have C5 Z06 end links for the front. I went to install them yesterday and realized they dont slip right in like i had expected them to. Apparently ill need to drill the control arm and the sway bar to accept the larger diameter end link. Does that sound right or do i have the wrong ones?
As far as the rear perch, what would wear more without them? I suppose i can put them on with the perches first and see how it sits. If its too high, i'll explore my other options. Perhaps ill trim my stock rear springs to the height i'd like. I recall a thread here where someone else did that and liked it. Cut springs in the front will cut through the isolator and cause that metal on metal squeaking sound after awhile. The rear is silent and i didn't have any issues with the springs being cut on my old car. I wonder what the disadvantage would be to running cut springs in the rear and the coilover up front. I decided to try the 500lb springs up front first. I'd imagine the factory spring rate cant be much lower than that if its lower at all and since the rear isn't a true coilover, i can't see it being much different.
Ok cool. Makes sense now. And i'd have the z06 links in if they would fit. lol But... Sounds like i'll just leave the stockers in for now and swap the z06 ones in after i get the cars height set where i want it and feel like drilling to fit them in there.
As far as the rear perch, what would wear more without them? I suppose i can put them on with the perches first and see how it sits. If its too high, i'll explore my other options. Perhaps ill trim my stock rear springs to the height i'd like. I recall a thread here where someone else did that and liked it. Cut springs in the front will cut through the isolator and cause that metal on metal squeaking sound after awhile. The rear is silent and i didn't have any issues with the springs being cut on my old car. I wonder what the disadvantage would be to running cut springs in the rear and the coilover up front. I decided to try the 500lb springs up front first. I'd imagine the factory spring rate cant be much lower than that if its lower at all and since the rear isn't a true coilover, i can't see it being much different.
Ok cool. Makes sense now. And i'd have the z06 links in if they would fit. lol But... Sounds like i'll just leave the stockers in for now and swap the z06 ones in after i get the cars height set where i want it and feel like drilling to fit them in there.
If you remove the rear perch, you'll experience a little bit of rattle since the shock is only being held loosely by the skinny, threaded GC tube. You'll wear the threads on the tube, the paint on the bottom of your car, and the rubber coating on the inside of the spring.
Keep in mind that these springs are linear. The factory springs are progressive. Here are their specs, as measured by Eibach:
OEM Cadillac CTS-V Springs - Initial and Final Rate:
F: 1.6" drop: 343lbs -> 457lbs
R: 1.2" drop: 363lbs -> 395lbs
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 08-07-2012 at 03:02 PM.
08-07-2012, 03:11 PM
#43
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Ok. I figured that. What size bit do I need to drill it out to the correct size? I'll
Have to pick one up. I didn't buy any M12 hardware. What is it for? Something else to do with the end links? Assuming the nuts than hold them in there?
Ok. Removing the rear perch sounds like a bad idea and not worth the added .5" drop to deal with rattling and beating the parts up. Wish they offered a 9" coil. That would be perfect.
As far as spring rates, I'm a noob at this for the most part. Would running cut stockers in the rear to get the amount of drop I want be a bad idea? How different would the rates be from the 500lb springs up front? Would I be better off finding someone here with some stiffer 8" rear coils (600 or 650) and running the 550's up front? I don't track the car so i'm more interested in the cars stance but I would also like a solid and well performing setup so i can have some fun with it on the street.
Have to pick one up. I didn't buy any M12 hardware. What is it for? Something else to do with the end links? Assuming the nuts than hold them in there?
Ok. Removing the rear perch sounds like a bad idea and not worth the added .5" drop to deal with rattling and beating the parts up. Wish they offered a 9" coil. That would be perfect.
As far as spring rates, I'm a noob at this for the most part. Would running cut stockers in the rear to get the amount of drop I want be a bad idea? How different would the rates be from the 500lb springs up front? Would I be better off finding someone here with some stiffer 8" rear coils (600 or 650) and running the 550's up front? I don't track the car so i'm more interested in the cars stance but I would also like a solid and well performing setup so i can have some fun with it on the street.
08-07-2012, 03:41 PM
#45
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I'm really unsure. Everything I know I've learned from searching and from fuzzy helping me through this. I really want 8" springs out back but not at the risk of it being unsafe.
Oh... Also... Forgot to ask but I'm removing the rear seat as we speak and starting on the rear. Is the GC spacer kit plenty to trick the stock shocks from self leveling? I have a mighty mouse kit here I was going to use but I'm not sure if it's necessary. I'm assuming it would be worth while to install them if I plan to ever go lower in the rear. Saves me from changing to them later when the GC spacers aren't enough. Am I right in thinking this?
Anyone have a link to install instructions for the MM kit? I'm assuming if I do this, I'll follow those instructions for the modification to the top of the shock instead of the GC instructions correct?
Oh... Also... Forgot to ask but I'm removing the rear seat as we speak and starting on the rear. Is the GC spacer kit plenty to trick the stock shocks from self leveling? I have a mighty mouse kit here I was going to use but I'm not sure if it's necessary. I'm assuming it would be worth while to install them if I plan to ever go lower in the rear. Saves me from changing to them later when the GC spacers aren't enough. Am I right in thinking this?
Anyone have a link to install instructions for the MM kit? I'm assuming if I do this, I'll follow those instructions for the modification to the top of the shock instead of the GC instructions correct?
08-07-2012, 05:14 PM
#46
There's no point to installing the Mighty Mouse kit with the Ground Control kit. The MM kit is for people that want to lower the car past the point where the shock will aggressively auto-level the car. You literally can't get that low on the GC kit--even with 8" rear springs.
If you wanted to add a helper to some 8" springs, you could, but you'd have to pay someone to weld the springs together. Alternately, you could buy PowerGrid or LG end links, adjust them properly, and never have to worry about unseating 8" rear springs.
If you wanted to add a helper to some 8" springs, you could, but you'd have to pay someone to weld the springs together. Alternately, you could buy PowerGrid or LG end links, adjust them properly, and never have to worry about unseating 8" rear springs.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 08-07-2012 at 05:31 PM.
08-07-2012, 09:02 PM
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I went low enough for my old car to self level even after I put some 1" billet spacers in back (RC51 style) and I only cut 1-1/4 coils off the stock springs. I think these stock shock will constantly try to bring the car back to stock height unless the spacers u use are bigger than the amount it is lowered. I'm thinking I might as well install the mighty mouse kit. I mean I already have it so why not? Worst case scenario... It's overkill. No negative effects from having it that I can think of.
08-08-2012, 01:36 AM
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Finally got it all installed with the mighty mouse kit. Did some adjusting back and forth but I ended up with the rears turned all the way down to the stoppers. Rear is sittin at about 26-1/4 on both sides. Passenger rear is a hair over the 26-1/4" mark and the drivers side is a hair lower than 26-1/4". The fronts are both just a hair under 26" on both sides. I'm happy with the stance. Of course lower would look better (to me anyway because I love the slammed look) but I wanna keep it practical at the same time. Don't need to be dragging my bumper on driveways or smashing my headers and 3" exhaust on speed bumps. Haven't driven it much. Just around the block between adjustments to allow it to settle out but it already feels night and day better. 
08-08-2012, 09:43 AM
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Nothing yet but I really haven't driven much. Kinda weird how the GC lower perch just sits in the rear lower control arm. I would think that would make some noise considering its metal on metal but I hope not.
08-08-2012, 10:18 AM
#53
08-08-2012, 11:09 AM
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So far so good. Just drove 35 miles out here to the plant for a meeting and I'll be making the same drive back shortly. Car feels solid and handles way better now. I'd like to turn the front down a tad to maybe 25-5/8" but I'm worried I'll start smashing my headers on speed bumps and I'll start tearing up my bumper cover on steep driveways so I'll most likely leave it where she sits.
Pics coming soon. Car needs to be cleaned. Maybe I'll go have it detailed from here and snap some. I get my black powdercoated wheels back Friday so I may wait to take pics until after I install those.
Pics coming soon. Car needs to be cleaned. Maybe I'll go have it detailed from here and snap some. I get my black powdercoated wheels back Friday so I may wait to take pics until after I install those.
08-08-2012, 11:39 AM
#55
Your primary concern should be wrecking your fenders when performing sharp, low speed turns over bumpy roads.
Recommend getting the rear slightly higher than the front end to combat weight transfer to he outside rear during high G turns.
Recommend getting the rear slightly higher than the front end to combat weight transfer to he outside rear during high G turns.
08-08-2012, 01:35 PM
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Well the rear sits right at the tire with 1/4 tank of gas. Like not even a full finger will fit between the fender and the tire. With a full tank, I'd assume it would tuck just a bit. Surprising because I didn't think I'd get the rear as low as I wanted it on these 10" coils. I like that look. The front sits just above the tire but its already lower measurement wise compared to the back. Think I may turn the front down just a tad so they are both sitting right at the tire and borderline tucking. I'm running a 275/40 out back and a 255/40 up front.
How much settling should i expect from the springs? Will they compress a little over the next couple weeks or is what I see what I get?
And I'm pretty casual with this car man unless it's straight line dragging. My car won't see nasty hard cornering like that one in the pic. I'm careful on turns, driveways and speed bumps. I will say though that the handling has improved a ton already and the ride is better than stock!
How much settling should i expect from the springs? Will they compress a little over the next couple weeks or is what I see what I get?
And I'm pretty casual with this car man unless it's straight line dragging. My car won't see nasty hard cornering like that one in the pic. I'm careful on turns, driveways and speed bumps. I will say though that the handling has improved a ton already and the ride is better than stock!
08-08-2012, 03:43 PM
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Ok. Well the rear is perfect for my taste. With a full tank, I'll be borderline tucking my current tires. Leaves room for some widened stickers and 305/35/18's. and I'll just turn the front down on both sides by a full turn or so.
and I'll just turn the front down on both sides by a full turn or so.
08-09-2012, 12:09 PM
#60
I'm late to the party but the holes in the ways/control arm need to be drilled to 15/32" for the Z06 links. Also, M12 x 1.5 (or 1.75) threaded nuts for the newer style Z06 links. I used the Nylock kind.
Here's a link to my writeup back in the day (when the old Z06 links were in circulation):
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...l-rotor-8.html
Here's a link to my writeup back in the day (when the old Z06 links were in circulation):
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...l-rotor-8.html